shikano53 Posted March 6, 2011 Share #1 Posted March 6, 2011 Hi, I purchased a high output stator from Buckeye Performance and have been reading the threads both here and the step-by on the Venturers.org site and have a couple of questions. In a thread on the HOS install someone said this: Basicly just remove both Case Covers on left side of engine. ( You have to remove the aft cover also, to access the Wireing bundles) After cover is off, Its just a few small bolts, to change the Unit. The one sticking point is the Gasket that Seals the 3 large wires from the Stator, and the 5 small wires from the " Ignition Pick Up Coils " Be sure to order New Gaskets, for the Case Covers !!!! ( Both of them ) Also, the Lower Bolt, on the Aft Cover, has a Brass Crush Washer, that makes an Oil Seal. Its advisable to order a few of those and keep on hand. In the step by step photos on the Venturers.org site it looks like someone is taking the exhaust apart and considerably more is involved than removing a few side covers. Am I missing something here? Do you have to drain the oil from the bike in order to instal/replace the stator? If anyone could help clarify this for me and or give me some additional information it would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted March 6, 2011 Share #2 Posted March 6, 2011 Chris, Yes you do have to drain the oil to start. It also would be a good idea to take off the floorboard for better access and drop the front exhaust pipe down to get at the lower case bolts. You have to remove the middle gear cover, the bottom center retaining bolt is the one with the crush washer on it, that needs to go back in that spot. Make sure you mark the positions where the bolts came out of, there are different lengths. When you pull the stator cover off keep in mind the position that the starter gears are in, they can go in backwards. I want to mention this also, this isn't a slam to Buckeye, but I had 2 stators start to leak where the 3 wires come through the sealing block. The easy fix for that is to apply some RTV on both the inside of the block where the wires go through and the outside. This will help prevent future seepage. Take your time and dont be in a hurry, make sure that you can eat off both surfaces where the gasket will go. Apply some RTV around the wire block and where the gasket will cover it. This will help insure that you wont get leaks there. If you have any issues my # is in my profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted March 6, 2011 Share #3 Posted March 6, 2011 Moving the front exhaust makes things easier, but in the times I've done this job, it never moved, so can be done with it in place. Also, when you put the stator cover back on, be sure to have the shifter linkage in the up position behind the cover,, it really would like to be in the down position, but then the cover won't slide on and you have to use a hammer to get it in place and the shifter won't work. Opps,, just noticed that this would be a 2nd gen,,,, not too familiar with those, so forget what I said. Now I'm glad Squidely lives in Texas, he can only get at me with words. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlh3rd Posted March 6, 2011 Share #4 Posted March 6, 2011 chris you can also take heat shrink tubing, put it around the 3 wires where they come through the rubber block ( this corrects the smaller wire diameter of the new stator compared to the stock wires )...then do the rtv ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shikano53 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share #5 Posted March 6, 2011 Thank you, thank you, thank you! The information is awesome. I will give this a go once the weather warms up. It never fails to amaze me how this forum and the Venturers forum always restores my faith in people through their simple kindness and eagerness to help, at least as fellow riders. My son in law is going to give me a hand. He has been a journeyman mechanic for 15 years. Thank you! Squidley, I will call if I get into a bind. Could you please tell me though, what is RTV? I have no idea what the initials stand for. Thank you Chris in Red Deer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shikano53 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share #6 Posted March 6, 2011 Forgot one question...What size is the crush washer? TNX Chris in Red Deer, Alberta VE6ENR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkuhr Posted March 6, 2011 Share #7 Posted March 6, 2011 might suggest take or draw pic of shift links, and mark punch marks to reassemble the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted March 7, 2011 Share #8 Posted March 7, 2011 Squidley, I will call if I get into a bind. Could you please tell me though, what is RTV? I have no idea what the initials stand for. Forgot one question...What size is the crush washer? Chris, This is RTV, it's a silicone gasket sealer http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=219327385&listingid=126169059 and you dont necessarily need to replace the crush washer, just make sure you install it back in the spot it was taken off from. I have reused the ones on all my bikes and haven't had to replace one as of yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlh3rd Posted March 7, 2011 Share #9 Posted March 7, 2011 chris rtv stands for "room temperature vulcanizing".....but all you need to know is what squidley told you....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shikano53 Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share #10 Posted March 11, 2011 Many thanks folks! I will let you know how I make out. Chris in Red Deer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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