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leveling links ?


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I read through the leveling links threads that come up when searched here. My interpretation of it is that these bikes typically sit high in the rear??

My bike sits high in the front. Much higher then the rear actually. I was going to check air in shocks tonight but all my gauges start at 10psi. It is something you could pick out in a picture actually.

?? Is is it typical for the "ride height" to be more in the front then rear??? Or should I see a more pronounced level stance??

 

TIRES ARE

FRONT= Dunlop D404F 150/80-16

REAR= Dunlop D404 150/90B15

Edited by royalstar09
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Guest scarylarry

The most you can air you can add to the front is 7 lbs...Do this with a hand pump...

HD makes a pump for this, or ebay that is where I got mine...

As for the height of the front end I don't know what it should be, mine is where the factory set it..

Also lot of folks ride with 0 air in the front, me I can't tell that much difference in 0 or 7lbs..

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Here's the pump you need...

 

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=28235&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse

 

As for the levelling links, they will raise the rear of the bike by appx 1 inch. You can buy them (sold here on the site) or make your own (instructions here on the site).

 

I made and installed my own.

 

They will improve low speed handling.

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I have a small hand pump that will work great but it does not have a built in gauge. Just do not have a gauge that goes that low. Ill grab a gauge tomorrow n check pressures.

So this sitting up in the front appearence would be considered "normal" since the links are raising the back?

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I have a small hand pump that will work great but it does not have a built in gauge. Just do not have a gauge that goes that low. Ill grab a gauge tomorrow n check pressures.

So this sitting up in the front appearence would be considered "normal" since the links are raising the back?

 

If your bike is stock, then you'd not have the "levelling links" ... just the stock links. I'm not sure how you're envisioning the "sitting up in front appearance" .... it could all be due to the design of the bike that makes it appear that way. If you think the rear is lower than it should be, take a measurement from floor to bottom of something like the passenger grab bar or the highest point of the rear fender opening, etc and then someone can give you a comparison.

 

The use of a hand pump and then connecting a gauge after the fact will cause sufficient air loss to throw it out of whack, especially with the front shocks as you have to set them exactly equal. With max 7 lbs on the front, the slightest air loss will drop them significantly. You need a pump with gauge attached like the Progressive pump that has zero air loss.

 

Under no circumstance should you use a normal air compressor ... you'll blow the seals.

Edited by SilvrT
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If your bike is stock, then you'd not have the "levelling links" ... just the stock links. I'm not sure how you're envisioning the "sitting up in front appearance" .... it could all be due to the design of the bike that makes it appear that way. If you think the rear is lower than it should be, take a measurement from floor to bottom of something like the passenger grab bar or the highest point of the rear fender opening, etc and then someone can give you a comparison.

 

Their has been no suspinsion mods done. Its all factory. Only change were the tires at 1,000 miles. It now has 3,100 miles. So I have 2,100 miles on the dunlops. I was assuming the bike frame rails (lower rails) would be level but maybe not. My frame rails in front of engine are at a higher point then behind the engine but appear to be straight rails, meaning they do not "step up" causing the indifference. Also the overall appearence when comparing it to pictures of others make it appear, and it feels, high in the front.

Untill I get a gauge I wont know, but for all I know the front shocks are pumped up, and the rears are deflated, and or this is just how they are. :confused24: :)

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No Ray,

 

The RSV and RSTD normally set lower in the rear than the front. If you understand motorcycle steering geometry you know this results in the bike being very stable going in a straight line but becomes very lazy when you try to make the bike turn. The leveling links correct this deficiency and raise the rear to level the bike and thus make it more responsive to steering turn inputs.

 

Now adding air to the rear suspension will raise the bike some but only to the extent of the free sag of the rear suspension. And the more weight you place on the rear suspension, the more air you should add to set the proper right hieght of the bike to make it handle better.

 

But by saying "make it handle better" you understand this is a personal opinion as some riders think the bike handles just fine with the rear slammed to the ground and all of the suspension travel taken up by the weight over the rear wheel. This why my Signature line states "The best you have ever ridden is the best you will ever know".

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

 

 

I read through the leveling links threads that come up when searched here. My interpretation of it is that these bikes typically sit high in the rear??

My bike sits high in the front. Much higher then the rear actually. I was going to check air in shocks tonight but all my gauges start at 10psi. It is something you could pick out in a picture actually.

?? Is is it typical for the "ride height" to be more in the front then rear??? Or should I see a more pronounced level stance??

 

TIRES ARE

FRONT= Dunlop D404F 150/80-16

REAR= Dunlop D404 150/90B15

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No Ray,

 

The RSV and RSTD normally set lower in the rear than the front. If you understand motorcycle steering geometry you know this results in the bike being very stable going in a straight line but becomes very lazy when you try to make the bike turn. The leveling links correct this deficiency and raise the rear to level the bike and thus make it more responsive to steering turn inputs.

 

Now adding air to the rear suspension will raise the bike some but only to the extent of the free sag of the rear suspension. And the more weight you place on the rear suspension, the more air you should add to set the proper right hieght of the bike to make it handle better.

 

But by saying "make it handle better" you understand this is a personal opinion as some riders think the bike handles just fine with the rear slammed to the ground and all of the suspension travel taken up by the weight over the rear wheel. This why my Signature line states "The best you have ever ridden is the best you will ever know".

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

 

That makes perfect since. I have a 34" inseam so heigth is not an issue. Id love to be more stable at low speeds, so, if not all of this though is my in experience with the RSV.

Why we are discussing, i searched here and on the net. Probably not looking in the right spot, but with the front shocks needing to be adjusted so closely id assume someone makes a hose that "links" their air pressure. Sort of like rear duals on a truck. Am I just missing it or just thinking to hard. It sure makes since to tye them together.

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Guest scarylarry
That makes perfect since. I have a 34" inseam so heigth is not an issue. Id love to be more stable at low speeds, so, if not all of this though is my in experience with the RSV.

Why we are discussing, i searched here and on the net. Probably not looking in the right spot, but with the front shocks needing to be adjusted so closely id assume someone makes a hose that "links" their air pressure. Sort of like rear duals on a truck. Am I just missing it or just thinking to hard. It sure makes since to tye them together.

 

You talking about this?

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=497

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Is the rear brake caliper on your bike above or below the swing arm? What is the measurement from the chrome tip on your rear fender to the ground while on the sidestand?

 

It is true that the stock RSV has a bit of a "cruiser" stance where the rear sits just slightly lower than the front, but frankly, I have never heard of this being so pronounced to anybody as you make it sound - hence my comment that your perception is a bit unusual. Even after the rear links are changed to raise the rear, the bike doesn't look any different to most observers. Frankly, I cannot imagine anyone actually noticing that the lower frame rails are or are not level, even if the rear suspension has been modified. But of course the fact that I cannot imagine it doesn't mean squat. And while your perception of the bike may be a bit unusual, that does not necessarily mean it is wrong. But I do advise you to not jump to conclusions.

 

Maybe you are looking at a stock bike, and maybe you are not. We can only help you based on the information you give us here.

 

As for the air in the suspension - the rear shock has a maximum pressure of 57 lbs, so that can be checked with any gauge. Just make sure that any compressor you use to add air to the rear has been adjusted down to 60 lbs or less so you do not risk damage to the shock. I would suggest you start with the rear set around 30, and test any adjustments from there after you get used to the way it rides.

 

The front forks have a max pressure of only 7 lbs. If you do not have the correct pump/gauge combination to adjust them, just make sure they have no air at all - this will be absolutely fine until you get the tool.

Goose

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That's not a how too make one...it's the original installation instructions that come with the Progressive balancing kit. I think I was the first one to ever install that mod and I uploaded those instructions when I was over there years ago. I've never seen any instructions for a home built kit but it is probably possible to come up with something.

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That's not a how too make one...it's the original installation instructions that come with the Progressive balancing kit. I think I was the first one to ever install that mod and I uploaded those instructions when I was over there years ago. I've never seen any instructions for a home built kit but it is probably possible to come up with something.

 

Sorry Don... I removed the post. When I read the article it looked like it was a "how-to" assemble.

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Hey, you didn't have to do that. The post was not a problem and might help somebody who actually does want to attempt to build one. Actually, I have a similar article in our Tech Library here.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=497

 

I didn't see the article in our Tech Library. When I tried following the link I posted it went to the Venturer's login screen anyway and not directly to the tech article. That and your comment I figured I may as well remove the post rather than mislead anyone.

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I see your running the stock Dunflop tires. When these wear out and they will soon enough, go for a set of Avon Venoms. That will dramatically increase your handling better then any other mod. :smile5:

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Is the rear brake caliper on your bike above or below the swing arm? What is the measurement from the chrome tip on your rear fender to the ground while on the sidestand?

 

Goose

 

 

On side stand, bars resting full left. From center of chrome trim straight down is 13" exactly.

On frame rail it is 1/2" increase from back to front. The frame definetly is slopped upward.

Now for air PSI. I went and got a nice accurate low pressure gauge (for now) till my pump gets here it will have to work.

REAR was at zero-0-nada.......

Forks were at 10psi

I put 50 PSI rear and let all the air out of the fronts for now.

It raise the rear 5/8" and not sure if or how much it lowered the front, BUT the bike looks to be level now at the frame rails and looking at id in general.

Rear shock at ZERO and my having to move the highway pegs forward would indicate that the previous owner was possibly shorter in the crotch :confused24:

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