SC89Venture Posted February 11, 2011 Share #1 Posted February 11, 2011 Okay, I have a 96 Fleetwood Terry RV travel trailer model 29S and I need a roof repair. Getting water in it, I have sealed every spot, still leaks. Probably looking at a entire roof replacement, anyone here know how to do that? Anyone here do it for a living or can do it as a side job and any idea what it would cost? Trailer is stored at Pirateland at Myrtle Beach. Trailer is about 31' long no slides. Ideal plan would be to come down and get the trailer to a site for a day or two and let the repairs take place. Thanks in advance, Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted February 11, 2011 Share #2 Posted February 11, 2011 Man...I've done it but it was over 25 years ago. I don't remember the details. I just know that I did it in my driveway and I had no experience with it and didn't have a problem. I wish I could help but just don't remember exactly what the process was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beau-Kat Posted February 11, 2011 Share #3 Posted February 11, 2011 Funny you should post this right now. I was just thinking that I have the same thing coming my way soon. My 30' travel trailer roof (also no slides) isn't leaking yet, but it is a 1997 model and will need replacement at some point. I'm not that far down the road from you. Rusty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted February 11, 2011 Share #4 Posted February 11, 2011 You need a big garage or some warm clear weather. Those roofs get to leaking because they start rocking back and forth cracking the upper and front corners. Check you ceiling inside the camper at the corners. There is only one or two campers that don't do this and it is because the have aluminum frames, hence no rocking... take outer corners off front and back 8-10' long remove old white sealant from corners of roof clean replace old sealant pepack corners reinstall corners your good to go for 3-5 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted February 11, 2011 Share #5 Posted February 11, 2011 To replace roof take front and back corners off take everything off of the roof take top corners off (and maybe first piece of siding) install new rubber roof membrane seal as previously stated This is a big job but do-oable. (Rare that you would have to replace entire roof unless it was damaged or old and brittle...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted February 11, 2011 Share #6 Posted February 11, 2011 Hopefully its not to this point: http://www.rvforsaleguide.com/trailer-repair/rv-trailer-repair.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC89Venture Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share #7 Posted February 11, 2011 Maybe we need a Maintenance Day for RV's lol. Funny you should post this right now. I was just thinking that I have the same thing coming my way soon. My 30' travel trailer roof (also no slides) isn't leaking yet, but it is a 1997 model and will need replacement at some point. I'm not that far down the road from you. Rusty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC89Venture Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share #8 Posted February 11, 2011 Hi Captain, Thanks for the reply and information. I would attempt this myself if I can find a dry spot to do it, perhaps I will see about renting a inside bay at a storage facility for RV's, and let them know what my plans are. I think I could do it myself, given enough time. I know I have one bad area, it is at the rear of the trailer on the left side. Actually had a hole in the roof a couple of years ago. You could put your fist through it. I did find out there is no rafter in that section, it is like it got cut off short when it was built and they just covered it up with the rubber roof. I patched that area real well, I don't think that is where my problem is. I stopped at Camping World and was given a rough price of $4000.00 for total roof replacement. Wow, book value on the camper according to KBB is $1900 tops. You need a big garage or some warm clear weather. Those roofs get to leaking because they start rocking back and forth cracking the upper and front corners. Check you ceiling inside the camper at the corners. There is only one or two campers that don't do this and it is because the have aluminum frames, hence no rocking... take outer corners off front and back 8-10' long remove old white sealant from corners of roof clean replace old sealant pepack corners reinstall corners your good to go for 3-5 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 11, 2011 Share #9 Posted February 11, 2011 Okay, I have a 96 Fleetwood Terry RV travel trailer model 29S and I need a roof repair. Getting water in it, I have sealed every spot, still leaks. Probably looking at a entire roof replacement, anyone here know how to do that? Anyone here do it for a living or can do it as a side job and any idea what it would cost? Trailer is stored at Pirateland at Myrtle Beach. Trailer is about 31' long no slides. Ideal plan would be to come down and get the trailer to a site for a day or two and let the repairs take place. Thanks in advance, Don I have a 92 Fleetwood Terry 26B and the roof is sealed with a rubberized product. Doesn't leak a drop. Being in the boating biz I've found those damn leaks can be quite a ways off from where it shows up. If everything has been sealed it's probably your AC or other vent thru the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted February 11, 2011 Share #10 Posted February 11, 2011 Maybe we need a Maintenance Day for RV's lol. Could add that to THOM's MD next year... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon_One Posted February 11, 2011 Share #11 Posted February 11, 2011 Hopefully its not to this point: http://www.rvforsaleguide.com/trailer-repair/rv-trailer-repair.htm WOW Is it really that cost effective for these guys rebuilding this trailer. Even after they went and done just about everything inside & out they still have an old rusty frame & probably need axle work (brakes & bearings) as well. They did do a great job thou so maybe it's more a labor of love there. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubber Posted February 11, 2011 Share #12 Posted February 11, 2011 That sure seemed like a lot of work. The guy looked like he knew what he was doing too. Big Job for anyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJoe Posted February 11, 2011 Share #13 Posted February 11, 2011 Depending on how long its been leaking you may want to trade it in... Campers are notorioous for leaking on the front corners where it rots the corners completly out. If you are somewhat the carpenter and are handy with your hands its not a big deal. However be prepared to deal with whatever you uncover... Go on the inside corners halfway down wall and push carefully. Essentially, you have a 1" x 3/4" x 8' frame sandwitched between panelling and aluminum siding with 3/4" foam sheets in between. Hope everything turns out ok... Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Pad Posted February 11, 2011 Share #14 Posted February 11, 2011 Maybe we need a Maintenance Day for RV's lol. I don't even want to think about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scarylarry Posted February 11, 2011 Share #15 Posted February 11, 2011 I have own 2 one with a slide one w/o. The dealer quote me 3k to replace roof, if it not a bad leak they make a sealer for it... Go here for more info. these folks know RV's. http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveW Posted February 11, 2011 Share #16 Posted February 11, 2011 the leak could be the gasket around the AC unit. I have a 94 holiday rambler and had to replace both roof air gaskets. They were in really bad shape from age, fell apart in your hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC89Venture Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share #17 Posted February 11, 2011 You know I was wondering how the ac was attached to the roof and if there was a gasket........ Thank you, you got me thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scarylarry Posted February 11, 2011 Share #18 Posted February 11, 2011 Be sure to put some plywood down on the roof before you walk on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted February 12, 2011 Share #19 Posted February 12, 2011 Yep , to bad you guys are not closer to me , thats what I do for a living , you can buy a kit and a rubber roof from your RV dealer , get the rubber at least 3 ft. longer than your roof and always get the widest - 9.5 feet because it never gos on straight , A/C gaskets have tobe changed every 5 years , when pulling the A/C down on the gasket , pull it down to 3/4 in. thick . the white sealet is Dicor self leveling , only use Dicor , nothing else ! the rubber roof is made to bond with Dicor only ! you can peal the old off , lightly clean the seams and put a 1/2 in bead on the seams , around the vents use 3 over lapping beads . It takes me a hour to a hour and half per running foot to replace a rubber roof and in 32 years of working on RVs I have done it many , many times ! If you order the roof online the freight will be high the roof weighs a lot , If you buy from a RV dealer there will be no freight if the dealer trys to charge freight , he is riping you off ! most RV dealers will give you 10 % off if you try real hard on a roof and install kit . If you need more info I am willing to help here or pm or just call me . Thom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted February 12, 2011 Share #20 Posted February 12, 2011 You know I was wondering how the ac was attached to the roof and if there was a gasket........ Thank you, you got me thinking. Pull the inside cover off , unplug all the white plugs you see and there will be 4 long bolts near the corners , remover them , lower the air hander than go up to the roof and pick up the upper unit , remove old gasket , install new gasket , install upper unit , make sure it matches the 14 x 14 hole , reinstall the air handler with the 4 bolts crushing the gasket to 3/4 in , put everything back the way you took it off , if you find any air leaks between the air out and air return use aluma. duct tape to seal . Thom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC89Venture Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share #21 Posted February 13, 2011 Thank you everybody for your comments and ideas. Thank you Thom for your offer of assistance over the phone. I have bookmarked this post and will take this info with me when I go back down to try to do something. My next plan is to change the ac unit gasket. I think I can do that at the campground and then see what happens. This site is the absolute best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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