Drreb Posted December 8, 2010 Share #26 Posted December 8, 2010 I can't agree with that. For me, it's Mobil 1. I use it in everything that I own and have done so for probably 12 - 15 years. It is the only oil for me...PERIOD. Ditto! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GolfVenture Posted December 8, 2010 Share #27 Posted December 8, 2010 I've been keeping up on personal oil preference soon to make a decision for an upcomming oil change. I have an 89 VR with 25K this year. Any reason why Valvoline and Quaker State Dino oil are not mentioned? Or atleast I haven't read in the various threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phertwo Posted December 8, 2010 Share #28 Posted December 8, 2010 Royal Purlple Max Cycle is what I am using. I get it through my company at a reasonable rate. Its still pretty expensive, but it is a good product. I have seen and have given the product demonstration on our testing rig and the results are quite amazing. Royal Purple makes quaker state look like glue. But honestly, when it comes down to it, as long as you are changing your oil with fresh, decent stuff, your still going to get from A to B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoi Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share #29 Posted December 8, 2010 IIRC the owners manual from the 2007 RSV that I totaled on page 9-1 it states But you should NOT trust my memory and read your owners manual. If you don't have your manual you can register at starmotorcyle.com and download an electronic version for free..... Thant means you can use API SG, SH, SI......... or any oil that says JASO MA on the label, but do NOT buy anything that has a API "doughnut" with the words "Energy Conserving" as it will have Molybdenum Disulphide in it which is GREAT for your engine and transmission but it will ruin your clutch in short order as it will leach the copper out of the plates, and make what is left of the friction material very slick, which is not what you want in a clutch. here is an example I found on the Internet of what NOT to buy. http://www.p2pays.org/rrfoil/images/apidonut.gif IF you are looking for a recommendation, I use Shell Rotella T6 as it is a full synthetic, JASO MA certified, available just about anywhere, and costs less per gallon than just about any other full synthetic. I get it at Advance Auto Parts or Walmart for about $20 per gallon..... Don't forget to use a high quality oil filter!!!!!!!!!!! What type of filter do you use if you don't mind my asking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiteSquid Posted December 9, 2010 Share #30 Posted December 9, 2010 I use a Purolator PureOne filter. Either the PL14612 or PL14610 will screw onto the bike. the PL14612 is the same height as the stock filter and I like it better than the PL14610 which is about 3/4" taller. the taller filter was a bit of a challenge for me to put on the RSV so I don't like it.... NEITHER are a replacement filter according to Purolator... BTW all of my other vehicles take the taller filter.. all are Honda. Odyssey, accord and Goldwing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyduck Posted December 14, 2010 Share #31 Posted December 14, 2010 cough cough.. ok, if you don't mind paying double for oil.. 19 bucks a litre? no thanks.. I'd sooner put Rotella in.. of course these are all personal opinions.. I paid under $10 a litre in Calgary Alberta last time I bought it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dray Posted December 14, 2010 Share #32 Posted December 14, 2010 Thanks for the info.. None of those shops listed are around here (Sears Ca doesn't carry them).. but the next trip into the US of the A I'll have a boo at pep Boys and such.. Not sure how pricing works where you are with Amsoil products but they are dang expensive here.. huge markup on their products.. compare it with what the other synth oils go for? ouch.. not worth it.. almost $18 a little bottle.. compared to $9 to $12 for other brands.. But that's out here in the middle of no where.. 2 weeks geographically located from anywhere significant.. i give 8.50 a QT. for amsoil here in town and today i went up and bought two bottles of there twostroke oil and mixed it to 5gal. of gas for a 100 to one mix and i use it in everything lawnmower snowblower ice auger weedwhip and chainsaw no mater what mix they call for they all get the same stuff and it works just like they say it only runs me 2.41 a bottle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rev Posted July 15, 2011 Share #33 Posted July 15, 2011 Do y'all not experience clutch slippage with the synthetics? Every one I've tired, including Amsoil, Yamalube, Mobil 1, and Rotella, cause me some degree of clutch slippage (with Amsoil causing the least). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted July 16, 2011 Share #34 Posted July 16, 2011 IIRC the owners manual from the 2007 RSV that I totaled on page 9-1 it states But you should NOT trust my memory and read your owners manual. If you don't have your manual you can register at starmotorcyle.com and download an electronic version for free..... Thant means you can use API SG, SH, SI......... or any oil that says JASO MA on the label, but do NOT buy anything that has a API "doughnut" with the words "Energy Conserving" as it will have Molybdenum Disulphide in it which is GREAT for your engine and transmission but it will ruin your clutch in short order as it will leach the copper out of the plates, and make what is left of the friction material very slick, which is not what you want in a clutch. here is an example I found on the Internet of what NOT to buy. http://www.p2pays.org/rrfoil/images/apidonut.gif IF you are looking for a recommendation, I use Shell Rotella T6 as it is a full synthetic, JASO MA certified, available just about anywhere, and costs less per gallon than just about any other full synthetic. I get it at Advance Auto Parts or Walmart for about $20 per gallon..... Don't forget to use a high quality oil filter!!!!!!!!!!! The bottom half of this circle where it has Energy Conserving printed should be empty with nothing printed there. Our clutches do not like oils with energy conserveving things in them. I've used Castrol 20/50 Dino oil for over 40 years with Fram filters. Never a oil related problem. Use what makes you feel good about it. I can do a oil and filter change on mine for less than 12 bucks. When I catch Castrol on sale at Wally World I buy several. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jactana Posted July 16, 2011 Share #35 Posted July 16, 2011 Do y'all not experience clutch slippage with the synthetics? Every one I've tired, including Amsoil, Yamalube, Mobil 1, and Rotella, cause me some degree of clutch slippage (with Amsoil causing the least). You probably have a clutch problem unrelated to oil. My clutch slipped on aggressive shifts, I installed Skydoc 17's full disc and stronger clutch spring. I just got back from a 7400 Km trip to Arizona and back, pulls like a train, no slippage at all. I 've been running Rotella 5/40 synthetic for the last 23000 km. Regards, Ron:322: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V7Goose Posted July 16, 2011 Share #36 Posted July 16, 2011 (edited) All bike riders (at least those with wet clutches, which means everyone but BMW and Moto Guzzi) need to understand what the JASO-MA certification means. In a nut shell, any oil that is certified for JASO-MA is good for wet clutches, no mater what else may or may not be anywhere on the bottle. JASO-MA is a specific certification for clutch slippage (actually, no slippage). In virtually all cases, if an oil is labled as a motorcycle oil, it meets JASO-MA requirements. Most auto oils do not carry the JASO-MA certification even if they could meet the requirements - if an oil is not specifically marketed for motorcycles, there is little incentive for the manufacturer to pay to carry the JASO-MA certification. Now you should also realize that just because a particular oil does not say it is JASO-MA certified does NOT automatically mean it will cause clutch problems, just that one which is JASO-MA certified will NOT cause clutch problems. If the oil you want to use does not carry the JASO-MA certification, it may or may not be good for a wet clutch - kind of a crap shoot unless you have lots of good reports from other bike riders. Many of us have used Shell Rotella for years - long before it carried the JASO-MA certification. Shell engineers stated long ago that even though Shell was not paying to get the JASO-MA certification, it did meet the same standards. Then about two or three years ago they got it officially certified anyway. I used to use Mobil 1 'red-top' auto oil, but when they changed the formulation on Mobil 1 about four or five years ago (and dropped the red bottle cap), I no longer trusted it for a wet clutch (Mobil 1 motorcycle oil yes, but not the current Mobil 1 auto oils). Since then, I have run nothing but Shell Rotella dino oil in my bikes. Goose Edited July 16, 2011 by V7Goose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allwx Posted July 16, 2011 Share #37 Posted July 16, 2011 I've used synth oil in every bike I've owned for the past 15 years. Back in the 90s me and most of my friends were using automotive Mobil 1 15W50 in our Goldwings. Some were using Royal Purple. None of us ever had any clutch problems whatsoever. I've got to agree that if one of these Ventures is having clutch slippage on synth oil it almost has to be a problem with that clutch. Heck, I don't even know what it would feel like for one of these wet clutches to slip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twigg Posted July 16, 2011 Share #38 Posted July 16, 2011 Everyone is throwing in their views, so why not? Any Heavy Duty Diesel Motor Oil of the grade you want. They all meet the spec. None of them has viscosity enhancers or friction modifiers, and they are all about half the price, or less, than synthetics. Synthetics won't do any harm, but they are a marketing gimmick for our relatively low compression, slow revving engines. As for the Shell Rotella version of this oil type .... A factory spokesman was overheard saying that the only reason it wasn't specc'd for motorcycles was because they hadn't had it certified. This was simply because they had a motorcycle oil, and they wanted to sell some You understand that I am not criticising their use ... each to their own. When I had a bike that revved to 15k, then I used synthetic oil ... the Ventures, any of them, not so much. The best favour you can do for ANY engine is halve the oil change interval. New filter every other change. New bike salesmen will hate you for it Others will go their own way on this .... It's a contentious subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allwx Posted July 16, 2011 Share #39 Posted July 16, 2011 Nothin' like an oil war... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbillerzippo Posted July 16, 2011 Share #40 Posted July 16, 2011 http://motorkote.com Don't forget the motorkote:stirthepot: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Fan Posted July 16, 2011 Share #41 Posted July 16, 2011 Tried many different brands and now I'm back to Yamalube Synthetic. My bike seems to run the best with it, so that Is what it will get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galapagos Posted July 16, 2011 Share #42 Posted July 16, 2011 Rotella 15-40 diesel oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted July 17, 2011 Share #43 Posted July 17, 2011 That is the main thing. Run what you are comfrontable with. Just change it and filter as you should and it is hard to go wrong. Lot of good oils out there but they all wear out!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlkaren Posted July 23, 2011 Share #44 Posted July 23, 2011 I just joined and changed mine for the first time today. Went with the Rotella T 15 40 and a good filter suggested here. Just ordered some more parts and you guys give me the confidence to try it on my own. Just had Yamaha do a few things and it was like 800 bucks. but two new tires and front and rear brakes and replaced all brake and clutch fluid. to boot and read drive oil. But I want to learn in the last few days I have learned a lot and stand to learn so much more. Thanks Guys Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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