Major Plastic Work

[elmicko]

I know we've talked about this a bunch, but usually we're only talking about spot repair. I'm starting to get a bunch of cracks in the plastic of my fairings so I've decided that my winter project this year is to strip all the plastic off of the bike and reinforce it. I'm going to build up the areas that have cracks pretty good, but I want to also put a layer of fiberglass cloth all over the insides to add some strength. I've looked at Plastex, but dang it's going to be expensive to get enough for a project like this. Several on here have said not to use fiberglass resin, so what are my options? Will ABS cement work for this or do I need to look at something else? Thanks.

[MiCarl]

Here's what I did for some major reconstruction that seems to be holding up:

 

I used pipe cement that specifies it's suitable for ABS (can get at Home Depot) to bond a layer of fiberglass cloth to the plastic.

 

Once that set up I reinforced by laying up an additional layer of fiberglass using standard polyester resin.

 

Where I had voids I did the back side as above. Then I filled with fiberglass Bondo. Finally a layer on the outside - pipe cement to the ABS and polyester resin over it to fill and tie into the Bondo. Feathering the edges was a bit tricky as fibers from the glass wanted to lift. I ended up using that air cure body filler that is essentially thick primer.

[MasterGuns]

I know we've talked about this a bunch, but usually we're only talking about spot repair. I'm starting to get a bunch of cracks in the plastic of my fairings so I've decided that my winter project this year is to strip all the plastic off of the bike and reinforce it. I'm going to build up the areas that have cracks pretty good, but I want to also put a layer of fiberglass cloth all over the insides to add some strength. I've looked at Plastex, but dang it's going to be expensive to get enough for a project like this. Several on here have said not to use fiberglass resin, so what are my options? Will ABS cement work for this or do I need to look at something else? Thanks.

 

 

Taking into consideration the time involved with something like what you're needing to do, in my opinion, it may be cheaper and far less time consuming just to find replacement pieces and repaint them. Repainting is something you will have to do regardless. Just my 2 cents.

[elmicko]

Taking into consideration the time involved with something like what you're needing to do, in my opinion, it may be cheaper and far less time consuming just to find replacement pieces and repaint them. Repainting is something you will have to do regardless. Just my 2 cents.

 

Actually the bike looks really good, I'm just concerned because it's beginning to get hairline cracks. Besides, what else have I got to do this winter?

[MiCarl]

For hairline cracks I have an ABS welding solvent from the hobby store. It wicks into the cracks (or clean breaks) and bonds them together. I'd use that first, then back up with fiberglass. Paint it on from the back and I don't think it'll harm your paint.

[Condor]

For hairline cracks I have an ABS welding solvent from the hobby store. It wicks into the cracks (or clean breaks) and bonds them together. I'd use that first, then back up with fiberglass. Paint it on from the back and I don't think it'll harm your paint.

 

I use that stuff too. I usually place some tape over the paint side of the crack to keep it from messing the paint up. For fractures there's nothing better...

[Dano]

For fractures there's nothing better...

 

Did that work on your noggin' too Jack?

[Condor]

Did that work on your noggin' too Jack?

 

Actually it probably would. I think it's nothing more than acetone....

[bobcat]

I've done much the same as mentioned above regarding using ABS cement. The only thing different is I'll drill a small hole at the very end of the existing crack to keep it from progressing before I apply ABS cement. If its a small crack and I'm working on the painted side I'll use a toothpick dipped in the ABS cement and work that into the crack then wipe off any excess immediately. If its a larger crack and I'm working on the inside I'll use ABS cement and either pieces of screen or fiberglass cloth for reinforcement..Both methods have worked well for me..

[Wombat69]

I now know the best ways to fix the fairing bits on my Gen 1 Venture. Thanks. Can I ask if anyone can point me to how to repaint the plastics. I do air brushing a bit but would like to use the right paint types first time rather than have to redo it after the clear peels off or some such. Any suggestions will be warmly regarded. :hihi:

[Rocket]

I now know the best ways to fix the fairing bits on my Gen 1 Venture. Thanks. Can I ask if anyone can point me to how to repaint the plastics. I do air brushing a bit but would like to use the right paint types first time rather than have to redo it after the clear peels off or some such. Any suggestions will be warmly regarded. :hihi:

 

My bike was painted with Nason (Dupont) Acrylic Enamel, after sanding, priming & removing the embeded pinstriping. It was done in 3 coats, 2 medium & 1 wet. Best to use some paint additive (fisheye remover), as we had a bunch of fisheye on the first try. Not sure, if it was from the new spray gun, or something missed during the prep work. About an eye dropper full is all that is needed, that is mixed in for the wet coat (according to the directions).

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52435

 

[Wombat69]

You Are The Man, Rocket! Thanks for that. Now I can respray with confidence. Only a few gallons of ABS cement and she'll be ready for painting. :bighug:

[saddlebum]

I know we've talked about this a bunch, but usually we're only talking about spot repair. I'm starting to get a bunch of cracks in the plastic of my fairings so I've decided that my winter project this year is to strip all the plastic off of the bike and reinforce it. I'm going to build up the areas that have cracks pretty good, but I want to also put a layer of fiberglass cloth all over the insides to add some strength. I've looked at Plastex, but dang it's going to be expensive to get enough for a project like this. Several on here have said not to use fiberglass resin, so what are my options? Will ABS cement work for this or do I need to look at something else? Thanks.

You will be surprised at how far plastex will actually stretch. I repaired all my panels and even pieced pieces together with plastex, after the accident. I also used it to recreate, missing and broken tabs. all my cracks were reinforced with plastex and fiberclass cloth (fiberglass drywall tape works well too).You also do not need additional bodyfill or spot putty, as the stuff smooths out nicely and finish sands to perfection. The cracks and joints were done with black while the tabs were done with clear. If possible stick with the black I am told it is the srongest.

Edited October 19, 2010 by saddlebum

[Yammer Dan]

Thats good looking work Bum can I come visit for a few weeks this winter??

[Wombat69]

Thanks Saddlebum. I have used a product called Jenco which is used to seal water pipes and stuff. It dries quickly, is two pack and is drillable, shapeable and easy to cast like Plastex. The price is a lot cheaper but it does not have the strength that plastex has. I have fixed most of the issues but still have work to do on the lower part of the right side fairing and lower fairing so they can be mounted without electrical ties. Never mind, a labour of love as they say.

 

I will look out for plastex but have yet to see an Australian supplier that sells it for a reasonable price and US eBayers don't seem to sell to Aus.

[LilBeaver]

Actually the bike looks really good, I'm just concerned because it's beginning to get hairline cracks. Besides, what else have I got to do this winter?

 

Part 1) Good idea to address it now. Although don't confuse the hairline cracks with checking in the painted surfaces (which I suspect is NOT the case, since it is all plastic)... BUt just a thought.

 

Part 2) Alternative for the 'winter': Buy a 2nd gen so you can 1) NOT work on it and 2) RIDE!!

[rentalguy1]

Just curious as to why you shouldn't use fiberglass resin. Will it melt the ABS or something? I have used it a few times to repair bodywork on sportbikes. I used it extensively on one Ninja that was biffed up real bad. I never had any issues, but I have always mixed it and metal set weak on hardner so it will cure slowly. You get a stronger bond that way.

 

Thanks to the OP for this thread. I have several hairline cracks on my bodywork as well. I was only going to wet sand and hit them with touch up paint prior to 3-step polishing the whole bike. I think I will reinforce all of mine now, too.

[rentalguy1]

Part 2) Alternative for the 'winter': Buy a 2nd gen so you can 1) NOT work on it and 2) RIDE!!

 

That's why I have a Sportster...

[elmicko]

Part 1) Good idea to address it now. Although don't confuse the hairline cracks with checking in the painted surfaces (which I suspect is NOT the case, since it is all plastic)... BUt just a thought.

 

Part 2) Alternative for the 'winter': Buy a 2nd gen so you can 1) NOT work on it and 2) RIDE!!

 

LOL...That's funny. Actually I am going to buy a 2nd Gen in the next couple of weeks. The things I'm doing on the old 1st Gen is just preparing it for the future.

[CrazyHorse]

Ahh the joys of owning a 1st Gen... I have several cracks in the panels myself.

[LilBeaver]

That's why I have a Sportster...

Like I said, you could go out and get something that you could ride instead of working on :rasberry: :witch_brew:

 

*Back to topic*

[elmicko]

Like I said, you could go out and get something that you could ride instead of working on :rasberry: :witch_brew:

 

*Back to topic*

Dang, that was a smack.

[rentalguy1]

Dang, that was a smack.

 

 

Meh...I thought it oozed jealousy myself...

[Wombat69]

:mytruck1:But the mInister of Finance and War would have extreme reservations of my getting another. I have watched a beautiful maroon 1989 Royale on eBay and it has not sold after two attempts. Is it destined to be mine, will my dream come true?? :fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo

 

And on the issue of fiberglass resin, there is no reason not to use it, it will not eat the abs as far as I'm aware. For me it's about what I have on hand. I don't know how well the resin will bite into the abs to get a good grip. I know it bonds really well to metal but not sure about plastic as it tends to flex when the bike hits bumps in the road (and we have plenty of them).

Edited October 20, 2010 by Wombat69
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[GaryZ]

+1 on drilling a small 'stop' hole at the end of your crack

 

I used fiber glass on my Ninja lowers a couple of years ago and the repairs have held up, so I used fiberglass to repair about 16 holes in my VR top box and the 16 holes for those four silly little bags. In addition I had the rebuild a tab on the main fairing. I 'stop-drilled' and fiber glassed a couple of cracks in the top box and one of the saddlebags.

 

So far, so good