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/me slaps forehead .... here we go again! I bet there are more threads on this topic than anything else and I also bet a guy can find at least two posts exactly the same many times within this forum on this topic.

 

Do a search guys... you'll have several days reading material :sign20:

All i can say is, the I=basket reduced my whine by at least 50% and dino oil seems to work best but I am still experimenting.

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I've got the same number except with -00 at the end. My service manager said he would order the "I" basket, but assured me that it would make no difference. I asked him if he had ever ridden mine and he said no. I decided to wait until the parts came in before telling him what I thought.

Since I've gone to Mobile 1 20w-50 and plugged both AIS's, the whine has gotten 100% worse. I should have left well enough alone, but now I'll go all the way until I P*ss everyone off and either it gets fixed or I sell the bike. He's also agreed to change the oil to Mobile 1 4T, but after talking to Mobile I doubt that it will make a difference-probably should have stayed with the Dino oil I was using. Yamaha should make an effort to fix the problem with the money they save every year by not making any changes in the model.

:178:

 

Before I changed my basket to the I basket, I tried the Mobil 1 20w-50 synthetic. It was horrendous! Whined worse than any oil I tried.

I now run Rotella 5w-40 syn and it's the quietest I've found.

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Same here as FreezyRider , I am even thinking the Rotella 5w-40 syn is even better

then the Amzoil 10-40 Syn ->I have ALWAYS used. That above U-TUBE was great, mine used to sound that bad. before I started using (I) Baskets.

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The problem here is that YAMAHA lost 2.4 BILLION dollars last year. They are just fighting to survive. So whatever problems we are having with our "whines" or chirps are way down the list of issues that are important to them.

My service manager told me he was trying to make money for the dealership and warranty work didn't pay the way. I'm not sure how he wanted me to reply, but I appeared sympathetic and asked him again to order the "I" basket. He said he would. He's going on vacation so maybe his customer attitude might improve-he seems OK, but then I'm a tolerant person to a point.

 

I frankly don't care what they lost last year unless they show me what they made in the good years. Being as they are made in Japan instead of the USA, perhaps the

Japanese will bail them out like we did GM and Chrysler.

:witch_brew:

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Before I changed my basket to the I basket, I tried the Mobil 1 20w-50 synthetic. It was horrendous! Whined worse than any oil I tried.

I now run Rotella 5w-40 syn and it's the quietest I've found.

 

Mobil 1 20w-50 is specifically designed for air cooled twins, which have greater machining tolerances and run considerably hotter than a liquid cooled four. It is suppose to keep its viscosity to over 300 degrees. Not sure why so many people are using it. Also there have been several posts where people have gone to heavier oil and said it made the noise worse whether it was synthetic oil or not.

 

And the manual calls for 10W-30 oil as first choice, 20W-40 as second. 10W-30 shouldn't be used in air temps over 100, and 20w-40 shouldn't be used in temps under 40.

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Mobil 1 20w-50 is specifically designed for air cooled twins, which have greater machining tolerances and run considerably hotter than a liquid cooled four. It is suppose to keep its viscosity to over 300 degrees. Not sure why so many people are using it. Also there have been several posts where people have gone to heavier oil and said it made the noise worse whether it was synthetic oil or not.

 

And the manual calls for 10W-30 oil as first choice, 20W-40 as second. 10W-30 shouldn't be used in air temps over 100, and 20w-40 shouldn't be used in temps under 40.

When I pinned the Mobile tech down on the differences between Mobile 1 20w-50 and 4T 10w-40, he said no difference except viscosity. He said the HDs (V-twins) usually ran the 20w-50 and the rice-burners (my words) used the 4T. The reason he gave was that was "WHAT THE MANUALS SPECIFIED". My 2008 RSTD specifies either Yamalube 4, 10w-30, or 20w-40 (which I don't think Yamaha even sells anymore). His point was that the manual didn't go past the 40 as in 20w-40 and that's why I should use the 4T.

Remember he said the oils were identical except for viscosity. So to see what time does for us I looked up the 2010 Venture specs (no 2010 RSTD) and they now specify: 10w-30, 10w-40, 10w-50, 15w-40, 20w-40, or 20w-50. Unless I'm mistaken the 2010 Venture has the same old engine that my 2008 has.

I guess the 4T is worth trying but it doesn't make sense that the 40 would be quieter than the thicker 50 in the gear baskets, but I can sure understand why Dino oil might be quieter than synthetics. Even the difference in the Mobile and Rotella formulations could make a difference. It's a shame that it is us (the customer) instead of Yamaha that conducts these trial and error tests.

Guess I've spouted off enough, but if I'm wrong in these assumptions feel free to let me know.

:doh:

PS: On second thought it's possible that Yamaha has conducted these tests and determined that nothing short of re-engineering would solve the "whine". I guess they might be telling us that if we don't like the whine then DON'T BUY these Bikes (looks like they might be phasing them out anyway)

Edited by Shipper
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Not sure why heavier oil would be noisier, I thought it should be the other way around, but have heard a few people say when they change to 20w-50 from 10w-40 it got louder. when I switched from dino to Mobil 1 10w_40 mine got quieter.

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