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Showing results for tags 'steel'.
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A Backhoe weighing 8 tons is on top of a flatbed trailer and heading east on Interstate 70 near Hays, Kansas ? The extended shovel arm is made of hardened refined steel and the approaching overpass is made of commercial-grade concrete, reinforced with 1 1/2 inch steel rebar spaced at 6 inch intervals in a criss-cross pattern layered at 1 foot vertical spacing. Solve: When the shovel arm hits the overpass, how fast do you have to be going to slice the bridge in half?? (Assume no effect for headwind and no braking by the driver...) Extra Credit: Solve for the time and distance required for the entire rig to come to a complete stop after hitting the overpass at the speed calculated above.? Yes, you can neglect friction.
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I heard you were...... CHEAP........ but....... that ridiculous using your Wife's Stainless Steel bowl:rasberry:
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Are there any members in the house who are workers at US Steel? We have recently been bought out up here in the frozen north by USS I would like to ask a few questions, especially if your company had been bought out by the same. Thanks.
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I posted this info once before but it's been lost since the sites crash so will put it up once again. Hopefully others can benefit from this idea. Ok we all know how flimsy the front crash bars are, especially if you've added foot pegs. I made up a set of supports to my bike to add some rigidity to them. There's a couple of advantages to adding these supports. One is no flexing the lower cowlings thus reducing chances of cracking them as some have posted. Another is in the event of either crashing or dropping the bike the bars won't fold back and cause more damage. What I did was to purchase a pair of 1" chromed clamps, cut two strips of 10 gauge (1/8") flat stock 1" wide x 5 1/2" long, and bought 4 stainless steel button head bolts with nylon lock nuts. I used three piece clamps but other types can be used as well. Stainless steel can be subistuted with chromed or plain steel as well. Next was mounting the each clamp to the front bars, adding the strip steel after drilling holes on each end. Then positioning the other end of the strip steel on top of the floorboards b mounting bracket. Locate the end of the hole where you can add the other bolt. Drill a hole thou the floorboard bracket and finish the install. On the bolt that goes thru the floorboard bracket I put the button head on top. There's only a little room there thus that's why I used button head bolts ove hex head types. You'll also find it easier to drill the holes after taking off the bracket too and it also gives you more working room getting the bolt there in place. Here's a couple of pics. I'll add a couple more later with more detail. Larry
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Saw these on e-bay. The guy has sets for many bikes and has misc assortments and individuals as well. I'm tempted, but wonder if the stainless is strong enough that they won't have a problem being torqued. Stainless is typically a bit softer than regular steel isn't it? Anyone tried them? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150111682796&sspagename=ADME:B:AAQ:US:1
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I posted this info once before but it's been lost since the sites crash so will put it up once again. Hopefully others can benefit from this idea. Ok we all know how flimsy the front crash bars are, especially if you've added foot pegs. I made up a set of supports to my bike to add some rigidity to them. There's a couple of advantages to adding these supports. One is no flexing the lower cowlings thus reducing chances of cracking them as some have posted. Another is in the event of either crashing or dropping the bike the bars won't fold back and cause more damage. What I did was to purchase a pair of 1" chromed clamps, cut two strips of 10 gauge (1/8") flat stock 1" wide x 5 1/2" long, and bought 4 stainless steel button head bolts with nylon lock nuts. I used three piece clamps but other types can be used as well. Stainless steel can be subistuted with chromed or plain steel as well. Next was mounting the each clamp to the front bars, adding the strip steel after drilling holes on each end. Then positioning the other end of the strip steel on top of the floorboards b mounting bracket. Locate the end of the hole where you can add the other bolt. Drill a hole thou the floorboard bracket and finish the install. On the bolt that goes thru the floorboard bracket I put the button head on top. There's only a little room there thus that's why I used button head bolts ove hex head types. You'll also find it easier to drill the holes after taking off the bracket too and it also gives you more working room getting the bolt there in place. Here's a couple of pics. I'll add a couple more later with more detail. Larry
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I've noticed people selling stainless steel bolt kits for the ventures. Although they are bright and shiny as well as easy to maintain, I wanted to through a word of caution to those not familiar with the characteristcs of stainless. Stainless does not mix real well with aluminum and has a high possibility of galvanic corrosion. In other words the aluminum can corrode like crazy if moisture gets around the threads. Also stainlees steel is more brittle than other steels and can break under stress where carbon steels will flex or bend. Saw some on ebay and wanted to let folks know before they through their dollars out there.
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I'm looking at replacing my brake pads all the way around. What brand & where is the best place to purchase them? I also want to look into the stainless steel reinforced hoses. anyone with thoughts or suggestion in this area? wayne
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Anybody have a source for polished T304 Stainless Steel Sheet 20 or 22 GA. in #8 or Super #8 mirror finish? I am looking for a cut piece of 24"x24" dimensions. I usually get my specialty metal through onlinemetals.com, but they just offer #4 brushed and no possibility of ordering small quantities of #8. The local steel yards will just order huge quantities for architectural purposes. Thanks in advance, Klaus
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