octoberboy

Paypal happily sent.

Thanks gents. Makes good sense.

This was the first repair I have done on my bike. A bit daunting place to start but thanks to the nice instructions Firebird and V7Goose posted it was quite a rewarding experience. Front side floats were fine, both rears were really bad. Scoot now as much more low end power and is smoother over all. Will sync the carbs once the Motion Pro carb sync tool comes in. BTW the Motion Pro was $108 at JC Whitney but $65 on Amazon. An EMGO digital was $57 at JC Whitney but $89 on Amazon. Just an FYI in case anyone is thinking of buying. Ran into a couple of possible issues that I would appreciate some thoughts on: 1) The surge tank joiner (step 9 in Don's carb removal instructions) had a lot of oil on and in it, but only on the left side. The sponge gasket was soaked and the inside of the left surge tank was pretty oily. The carbs were clean though. While the right side sponge gasket was a little oily, the right side surge tank was not oily at all. Anything I should check? 2) The rubber gaskets on the bottom of the carbs had white crud on them similar to the mineral deposits you might see on a shower head. Not all the way around, but maybe 15-30% depending on the gasket. I used Sea Foam and my finger nail to gently clean it off. Going to order some new gaskets but are such deposits normal? Could it be dried out gasket cement? Are you suppose to use gasket cement on these? Final note, as it had to be my bad, but I see one reason why Don might hate the black connector (step 13). To start the scoot I now need to reach under the tank and give a bit of a push on the wires so the temperature sensor does not go on. I'll fix that when the new gaskets come in. Thanks...

My RSV had about 47K on it when I switched to Mobil 1. I did get a little bit of whine but unless I really listened for it I didn't notice it. I changed oil this spring and stayed with Mobil 1. No clutch slipping, no whining. Bike seems happy. Owner is happy. Wife is happy, which is the most important of them all.

This is the one I got at local Harley dealer.

You might also want to check out http://greatdaytoride.com/Home_Page.php Spencer's only thing is making your existing seat more comfortable. I talked to a three guys, all with different bikes, and all of them were very happy with his work. I sent my seat on a Tuesday and I had it back the next Monday. He promises to turnaround every seat within two days, preferrably one. Most of the time is in the shipping. When the seat comes back it should look exactly the same as when you sent it but ride it for a couple of tanks of gas and what a difference. Email him with your issue. He will get back to you with what he can do and how to proceed. Then you can decide if it is right for you. My seat rebuild was $75 + shipping. $50 for the normal rebuild + $25 for some special padding material he uses.

I did not see comments in any of the other posts regarding it being a problem, but thought I would ask just in case. I'll give them a call later today. Thanks.

I am wondering if the vent on an F4 obstructs any of the drivers view. Reading other threads about people getting bugs in their face gave me the impression it might be up a bit higher than I think I might like.

I was a bit confused because there was no place to put the hex head. I took a different close up picture to show you as an example. When I looked at that I realized there is a cap over the hex slot. All is good in the world again. At least for now. Thanks Larry.

Need a little guidance with how to remove my chrome covers (engine, crankcase, etc). They are are all attached with unslotted screws (see picture). I assume there is a special tool I need to get? Some of the screws, like for the engine covers, have almost no clearance around them. Afraid if I don't do things the proper way I could make a much bigger problem for myself.

Mine was pretty bad, at least a section of it. Jack hammer worked great.

To rule out wind and other noises I did all my testing with the bike both in my garage and on the driveway.

Going to make a long story short. Got nice new J&M headsets. Before installing in helmet plugged into bike to make sure they worked and got hissing noise, front and rear on both sets of headsets. Tried combinations of headsets and cables too. Called J&M. They said it was from the bike and was amplifier related. So read lots of threads on our site. Checked out venturers.org too. I put headsets in helmets anyway (both full face, one Aria and one KBC), thought may as well use them and will do some more research and try fixing in week or so. We both get on the bike, plug in and no hissing problem. Hmmmmm? Decide I don't care why, let's ride. Later on Colleen gets off, unplugs and I start getting noise, both hissing and engine. Hmmmmmm? Now I do care. What was the difference? Well with only one headset connected you aren't going to need to use the intercom. Hmmmmmmm? With only rider plugged in, I found I could control the hissing and engine noise by lowing the IC volume. If I lowered the IC volume to 6 the engine noise went away. If lowered it all the way to 0 the hissing goes away. Ahhhhhhh, very sweet. Not saying this is the solution for all audio noise cases, we never got any background noise using just the speakers, but when using headsets I am able to control the background noise levels by using the IC volume based on number connected headsets. Works real nice for us.

Joe, Check this out for your Nuvi 250. Waterproof gps case for scoots. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Duragadget-Bicycle-Waterproof-satnavs-including/dp/B003CSLB82/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1337026872&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: Duragadget Cycle./ Bike / Bicycle Waterproof holder mount and case for GPS satnavs, fits all models including garmin Nuvi models 200w, Nuvi 205w, Nuvi 250w, Nuvi 255w, Nuvi 260w, Nuvi 265w, Nuvi 265wt, Nuvi 270w, Nuvi 600, Nuvi 610, Nuvi 650, Nuvi 660, Nu: Computers & Accessories@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41tThPzwdIL.@@AMEPARAM@@41tThPzwdIL[/ame]

www.motorcycleaudioonline.com has roughtly 25% discount on new wired headsets and connector cables. Check which cables you might need though (P or Z), they vary by model (Standard, Performance, Elite).