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The ole Mustangs, Mavericks, Fairmonts or the 70's were terrible. LOL I owned a couple of those and a Merc Monarch (Granada) They always seemed to squeak and rattle. With .250 slop allowed I guess that would explain that.

Was watching "whats in the barn" last year. Dave (or whatever his name escapes me rite now) told the story that the bid went out for a bike in WW 2 of XZY and such and such size motor etc. Indian, Harley and one other built bike for the contract. Harley won out, due to performance. and as Paul Harvey use to say, here's the rest of the story. Harley motor was bigger than anyone else's. So that's why the extra power, but they won the contract and Indian went under shortly after.

Couldnt you just ask one of them Goldwing guys how there bike is? Basicly thats and FB6 rite? Down side to me on Fb was no cruise.

Typically if ball joints are bad you will hear some kind of clunking when pulling into or out of a parking lot or pavement change like that where the wheels go over a bump. Starts out subtle and when bad will be a big clunk.

Yea I remember them days. Even the hard core Harley guys wouldn't touch them. Hd outsourced all kinds of stuff. I understand the wiring was all made in Japan and gave tons of problems. Although now an aficionado tells me you can buy a replacement harness that actually works. They made dirt bikes too, use to see some at the track. Did Harley actually make those engines or were they a Sachs or something? Harley tried to build it up as "American Fun Machine" LOL I knew guys that were more of the "aint fu@# mine" think back of all the stuff that had that AMF Harley emblem attached. Motorcycles, bowling equipment, dirt bikes, snowmobiles and ah yes golf carts.

If front wheels are having wear issues something is bad. ball joints, tie rods something has been made not happy. There is no gauge or wear indicator for the ball joints or tie rods. It is simply a feel type thing for the mechanic. If there is play in those items they can set the front end and when you back out of the parking lot the alignment is off again. So good parts are essential. There were a couple 3 years they had issues with upper ball joints on the mid sized dakota/durangos. 2001-2003 I think. We had a recall and replaced the uppers. The ones I put in when in dealer were MOOG. We have a 2002 durango and I just put all new uppers and lowers in mine @ 160k. My Ram 2500 is a 96 and I put all new ones in it a couple years back around 110k. your local roads are a big factor, pot holes, your drive way transition parking lots all jar the joints. 56k is not terrible for uppers, lowers will usually go further. What I ran into with the wifes Durango was the uppers were bad and one of the lowers was iffy to me. I figured I'm going to spend the money to align it so I will just replace them all. but my labor is free and I didnt have to pay anyone to do the work besides the alignment. It sounds as though the bad part could be isolated to the one side. You should be able to jack up the wheel at question get weight off it. Then use a large bar or something to see if you can get movement up and down in that wheel, if so then you have a bad ball joint. but that would indicate a lower to me, an upper you have to see if you can get movement out of the upper control arm which is a bit more tricky.

I dunno why I was looking here. But looky what I found. A Harley just for you.

Vet yes That typically knocks $1000 off top. Then it looks like this other special they had you could "stack" with it.

Puc the Vic dealer over in Lakeland down here is tryin to get me in trouble too. A "new" 2013 Cross Country Tour for 13K and had an e-mail add for possibly another 2500 off that.

Unless he made the ignition by-pass him self it probably for the RSV. You could rig up a temp fuel tank with say a quart of gas and go for a ride.

I think the gold color is kind of neat. Don't see a lot of bikes that color. Local (sort of) Victory dealer has a nice looking Cross country touring in a cool color you dont see much either. I think that's kind of why I like it. Its called Bronze mist http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/ba/81/5b/ba815bdce6f7090b418ce7f6db3bfee5.jpg

Boy I hate shotgunning a problem like this. There is just so many ways to go. Ignition switch its self could be bad. If has had heavy keys on it over the years it could have the contacts worn out, making minimal contact and when get hot-poof quit. Recycle switch and its all good again for awhile. Could be coil dying. Get hot, resistance goes up and no more sparky sparky. OHM checking is maybe 50/50 at best. Could check fine and the coil is bad in actuality. Pick up coil, same kind of deal. Loose wire on coil or ignition switch. See if you can find a wire diagram for the ignition. Maybe make a by pass for the entire switch and see if that fixs it. Probably can just use a toggle switch for a couple bucks. Hey a thought just popped in my head. Had a friend many years back his would run for oh 30 min or so then slowly loose power and cough out. We stumbled upon the cause and about laughed ourself to death. Fuel line got soft and would collapse. Guess as it got warm under the tank area, line was soft and deteriorated and would suck shut.

So is it a Soda or a Pop ? Well what ever ya want to call it, been a Dr Pepper man since I went in the USAF in 78 and got stationed in Oklahoma. AMD over Intel and definitely a non-fruity computer. 2 wheels vs 4 if I have a choice. LOL

Go to starter. Short across the terminals with a screw stick. I starter runs, you can check off a couple things. A: you got power to starter, B: Starter works. So from there you are pretty much battery terminals, also terminals at ground point on block, starter button contacts and relay. you can jumper the switch out by disconnecting it at handle bars and using a jumper wire in terminal block to see if switch is possible culprit.

Duct tape ?

30 minutes down the road from you.

Hmm looks almost like the one my nephew had. http://www.thestrong.org/online-collections/images/Z000/Z00049/Z0004987.jpg

WOW Didnt mean to stir up so much !@$#. LOL But some of you guys are cold and got nuttin else to do anyways.

Boy you got that right. I too soldered tiny wires to the LED strips. They get so brittle and break off soooo easy. Last night while working on the running light part of the right lights it broke off twice. Being I was adding the clearance lights anyways I just skipped it and didn't hook them back up.

They were 12v and supposedly waterproof. No matter I have decided to install some LED clearance lights for running lights. One strip of them still work off the signals so for now I'm good with it. I probably should have just went this route to start with as they are brighter. I just had not heard of anyone saying their strip had died and thought it was strange.

I used a bulb like that I got off e-bay. I looked quite awhile before I bought some. I used my calipers to measure the depth of the Adjure housing and then got a bulb that would fit in it. Mine work good. The certainly are better then the incandescents and I like them better than the halogens I had in also.

I installed some LED strip lights Oh I dont know a year or so ago. I made brackets to go under the bags and those have 2 strips. One strip is running lights and one turn signals. So the other day I was checking things out and the one that is running lights is not working. So did the usualy , check ground (even though same ground for turn signals that still work) Power connectors etc. So do they but out? I thought they were pretty much a lifetime long thing. Also used some of the same strip up under the gas tank for back lighting and they seem dimmer than originally installed. The other side of the bike they are fine.

Yea know what you mean. Data is all subjective and vulrnable to tweaking however the user wants to show it.

Although this is not the article I saw this AM on Yahoo. It shows the same facts. HD is not the top reliable brand. LOL Like we all knew that. Not saying they are a bad bike by any means. But the mystic has long slipped. Just not the T-shirt shops.

Looks like my garage. After the water soaked thru the sheet rock and the insulation fell out.