Prairiehammer

Yes, sorry for the misleading link. I forgot which way Twigg had gone. But Snaggletooth (and at least one other here) has done a dual headlight. Dingy has dual headlights, too. Here is a thread started by Mike (Snaggletooth) about his dual headlight: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?47752-Hella-H9-Module-headlight-mod-installed-and-lit-up&highlight=headlight

Gary, You will need to replace the left fairing stay to accommodate the MKII headlight adjuster. The headlight adjuster mechanism on the MKI will not work on the MKII headlight assembly. There is an additional mount (a tube) on the fairing stay for the MKII adjuster. See pics below. You may not have to replace the right fairing stay to mount the MKII headlight, but I wonder if the MKI headlight mounting tab will interfere with the MKII headlight assembly. Perhaps just cut off the mounting tab if it interferes with the new headlight. According to Randy, the tab is not a problem? The fairing connector (under the headlight; joins the halves of the fairing) must be changed to accommodate the MKII headlight. The upper or middle fairing stay must be changed to use the MKII headlight. Your 1984 fairing halves will bolt back onto the MKII fairing stays. But of course, the fairings must be removed first to replace the stays.

Venture batteries are rated at 20-21 Amp hour. The 2 amp specification is for charging not battery capacity. An AGM battery is still a lead acid battery, so I believe you can desulfate your old AGM with your Vector.

The Venture came with fork gaiters/boots from the factory starting in 1990. Part number 3JJ-23191-00-00 BOOT. Still available from Yamaha, however the price is around $80 EACH.

The CLASS fuse is not on the main fuse block. It is in a separate rubber encased fuse holder. Here is a pic:

The fairing stays (right, left and center) are unique to the 1983 and 1984. The 1983-1985 headlight assembly is bolted to the right and left fairing stays. On the 1986 and newer the headlight assembly does not bolt to the fairing stays, but instead sits in grommets on the fairing connector and under the windshield mounting tabs. I believe you will need to replace the fairing stays to mount a 1986+ headlight assembly. You might consider installing dual projector headlight into your 1984. Couple of guys have done it ( @Snaggletooth and Twigg). Here is Twigg's write-up about the project: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?67750-Headlight-Conversion-to-HID-Projector-%28-86-93%29

Perhaps someone broke the original and replaced it with plastic. On the two I have, both say "Temperlite" (tempered glass).

The failure of the instrument panel to illuminate is not likely caused by a bad TCI. Multitude of other items would be probable, but not a bad TCI. Corroded connector or bad fuse holder are more likely. Good fuses in poor fuse clips (corroded, loose, broken) will show the same symptoms as a blown fuse. Does it crank over? If so, does it want to fire, but doesn't quite get 'er done to start? Or is it dead, dead? No clicks? No fuel pump sounds? Battery posts clean and tight?

Cowpuke, errr, @cowpuc gave a pretty good synopsis for changing the plugs on a First Gen Venture. @GAWildKat's suggestion to find a THIN walled 18mm socket is valid as well. Many, if not most 18mm sparkplug sockets are too thick walled to fit into the spark plug well of the Venture. My preferred method (after thirty years of owning the beasts) to change the spark plugs on the Venture is to use the stock, OEM spark plug socket that came with the Venture, but instead of using the screwdriver to turn the socket ½ turn at a time, use a 22mm ratcheting box end (e.g. Gear Wrench, Craftsman) on the hex opposite of the spark plug.

Gary, as Kiwiroyale said, first check that the CLASS fuse is not blown. And as he says, the CLASS will only operate in the ACC key position. A properly working CLASS will adjust front and rear suspension. Finally, I recommend that you not run zero air pressure in the Venture rear or front (unless you have new springs in the front, in which case many folks DO run 0 psi in the front).

The only place you will find another radiator for the Venture is from a salvage yard or the various "breakers" on eBay (still salvage yards, but online). Although there are some sellers on eBay that claim to sell NEW radiators for the Venture. Generally, unless there is catastrophic damage done to a radiator, it can be repaired fairly easily and cheaply by a knowledgeable radiator shop.

Indeed the same radiator is used on all First Generation Ventures.

On my '83, the outer "lens" is glass, not plastic. But your other points are valid.

We trekked from Illinois to New England two years ago. Day 1: Home to Cleveland area (would have gone to @Freebird's instead, but he wouldn't allow it.) Day 2: Cleveland area to Niagara Falls (Goat Island and camped at Fourmile Creek SP. @stickhandle2 even joined us for supper) Day 3: Four Mile Creek to Old Forge, NY (take the Lake Ontario State Parkway) Day 4: Old Forge (you are in the Adirondacks) to Whiteface Mountain then take the ferry across Lake Champlain from Plattsburgh to Grand Isle and stay at the "Champlain Adult Campground". Day 5: Grand Isle, VT to Noyan, QC then back into the US and take VT78 and VT 105 across to Brighton SP. Day 6: Brighton SP to Errol, NH to Rangeley, ME to Bangor. Day 7: Bangor area to Machias, ME on the coast via Wesley. Visit Cutler,Me and the lobster pound there, continue to Lubec with a stop at Quoddy Head SP. Cross the bridge in Lubec to Roosevelt Campobello International Park in New Brunswick. The return via US1 to Steuben and the Mainayr CG. Day 8: Mainayr to Winter Harbor and take the Schoodic Loop Road around the Schoodic Pennisula. Continue to Ellsworth, Belfast and Camden. Have a lobster dinner on the waterfront at the Whales Tooth in Lincolnville, ME. Day 9: Camden SP to Sutton Falls Camping Area near Webster, MA. Day 10: Swing down into Rhode Island (just to say you've ridden in Rhode Island) and then travel across northern Connecticut to Kingston, NY and on to the Delaware Water Gap. Day 11: It is up to you how to get back to Kentucky (we headed west toward Illinois.)

I agree Tooch...thus, my use of the word. (I thought it a witty pun, but apparently it was too subtle.)

It definitely is a piece from the "center divider" of the collector. But how it became small enough to become lodged in the muffler is baffling. Some pics of the collector internals:

This past summer, my '91 began to handle like crap (two up, loaded for camping with trailer). I discovered that the front forks had no air. I'd air up the suspension with the CLASS and all would be good for awhile (days). But then it would start handling crappy again and I would discover that the forks were at zero air pressure. Fire up the CLASS and air it all up. All OK for a mile or so, then crappy handling (no air in front). I found that the CLASS controller was releasing the air, presumably because of road vibrations acting on the CLASS connector. Never did see any error codes. Resoldering everything fixed it.

You have a PM (here and on FB).

Originally those switches controlled remote radio tuning. If you use them, utilize a relay or two to activate your accessories. The switches and wires are prolly not robust enough to switch directly driving lights or a good horn.

If non-conductive silicone dielectric grease is used (as Doug suggests) there should be no connectivity issues caused by the dielectric grease. http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

Commonly, one would wrap a length of vinyl electrical tape over that groove to prevent damage to the new seals.

The Venture rear shock linkage was changed on the 1988 model. What you have on the 1989 is factory for years 1988-1993. The "one small bolt" screws into internal threads on the pin that goes through the lower shock eye. The pin is then driven out to the left. Be warned though, that the steel pin is often frozen in the aluminum linkage arm. Also be aware that striking the right side end of the pin may cause damage to the end of the pin, due to the internal threads. Use a well fitted punch to avoid mushrooming the pin. Consider using the small bolt, mostly screwed in, to strike upon. Heat (from a torch) applied to the aluminum linkage arm may be required. It may also be necessary to remove the entire assembly from the bike and work with a bench vise.

Thanks, Don. I hope you have a pleasant Thanksgiving as well. Um, if I show up on Thursday, "Please, sir, may I have some more"? You will be truly thankful if @Squidley doesn't show in Oberlin.

Don't be vain. Reinstall the lowers and close the vents.

Jerry, is it possible you mixed up the months? I have a 1988 with a higher serial number than yours but with a build date of October 1987. Might the 1985 build date be 11/84 and the 1988 date be 10/87?