Prairiehammer

Yamaha part numbers reflect the size of a bolt in the part number. In this case: "06014" means 6 mm diameter and 14 mm in length.

What gear were you in? What is the loaded tire diameter? Here is a site with a calculator. Try it out. http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm

Mike, looking through my "database" of Venture accessory photos that I have compiled, I have found both versions of the Markland hitch; some with no hole and some with the flattened end and a hole like yours. If someone finds the "no hole" version, they better make sure to get the clamps I referred to above or the mounting will not be stable. I am going to propose that the "no hole" version is the earliest, but it showed a weakness due to the slipping of the clamp on the round tube and Markland revised the hitch to have a flattened end with a bolt hole for a more secure mount. I've not found the Markland clamps intended for the flattened with hole hitch. Perhaps, the Markland provided clamps for the later version hitch were exactly what you did?

Not shown in any of the previous pics are the clamps to attach to the saddlebag crash bars. They would do what the chrome clamps that Snaggletooth shows in his last pic do but are made differently. Most sellers don't seem to remove them from the bike with the hitch.

Depending on the brand of hitch, there were significant differences between the two years. Probably have to make some major mods. First pic is of a Markland hitch for a MKI (1983-1985). Second of a Markland for a MKII (1986-1993).

Thanks, Gary for the thread about the First Gen fuel pump on a Second Gen. But what is the difference between the G1 and G2 pumps (besides the mounting) that has manifested a higher failure rate in the G2? Is the G2 version constructed on the same principle (electromagnetic reciprocating diaphragm)? Just curious.

Pardon me if I am incorrect, but it seems that the Second Gen fuel pumps are more prone to fail than the First Gen fuel pumps. What is different from one Generation fuel pump to the other? Can a First Gen pump be used on a Second Gen?

You didn't REALLY plan on 40 pounds on that rack did you? Yamaha had a sticker on the G1 VentureLine racks stating a 10 pound limit. Just Sayin' And, how did you know Bob was my Uncle² ?

Yeah, I hear ya! For the girl at the bar: my first thought wasn't the belly button! Or a twist-off!

That video got me to thinking: I didn't have a bottle opener on the bike! Do now! While most of the time, the beer I drink has a twist-off cap, sometimes while camping, I buy a local brew and those hauty-tauty micro-brewers seem to sneer at twist-off caps, so now I can enjoy my beer without worrying about glass shards and torn up tires.

I don't think there is a way to sort the list while viewing on the VRO site, but if you download the VentureRider Assistance list to your computer as an Excel spreadsheet, you can sort that list by state/province and the cities will be listed alphabetically. Granted the VR assistance list is not as up to date (hint) as the "community" list and not all members have been added to the "assistance" list. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45159&highlight=assistance+list

http://devour.com/video/how-to-open-a-beer/

I cheated. I actually went out and looked at my bikes. Now this may get confusing. On MY '90, the VIN is on the right hand side of the steering neck. Perhaps on the '83 it is on the left? And because the crankcase is covered up on my '90 with panels, I looked on the '83 to determine engine number location and it is on the left side over the middle gear. Perhaps the engine number is in a different location on the '90? The books always right...right?

Dang!, Mike, you need to settle back and relax. The VIN number on the steering neck is on the RIGHT side of the steering neck. And the engine number is on the LEFT side of the engine right above the middle gear or if you prefer where the drift shaft exits. Bart: all directions are as if sitting on the bike, except in Nebraska, apparently.

:confused24:Confused people at the DMV? The VIN is 17 characters, starting with JYA1NL00xGA00xxxx. The VIN is permanently inscribed on the steering neck and also on a sticker on the lower frame rail (the removable one) under the right side of the engine. BTW: I don't see a problem with stating the entire VIN, what can an unscrupulous person do with it? I can walk up to any Venture and get the VIN. In fact, I am compiling a database of all First Gen Venture VINs. PM me with your VIN, if you don't want theses scoundrels to know it. The ENGINE number is stamped on the block and it will look like: 1NL-00xxxx; if the engine and chassis are original the engine number should match the VIN. I've never heard of a requirement for the engine number for a DMV, and at any rate, if they want a 17 character identifier, it ain't gonna be from the engine.

That's a good idea. Those frozen connectors are pretty dicey.

One curious thing about Yamaha marketing that I can't wrap my pea-brain around: why do they cease production and marketing of a particular model (G1 Venture, G1 VMax, etc) then return with a new version of the marque years later? Why not just introduce the new version in the next model year? Are they fearful of having unsold old versions sitting on the showroom floor next to the new version? Most all motorcycle dealers have brand new, never sold, one or two year old bikes on the floor, trying to sell the leftovers simultaneously with newest model.

Just to be clear: the starter does not fail to engage. Nor does it spin freely, then suddenly noisily engage. The starter sounds perfectly normal. The clang (or BANG, depending on your semantics) occurs only at the seemingly last stroke of the stalling engine. It sounds as if the engine is trying to run backwards for a split second. This occasional noise started after I installed the Ignitech this Spring. I mentioned my concerns to Dingy at the MD. I wondered if there was too much initial advance programmed into the Ignitech. He adjusted the advance from 10° BTDC to 5° BTDC. I hope that the perceived engine kickback or reversal didn't break something.

Just to be certain: with the rear wheel off the ground (bike on center stand) idle the engine in gear and apply the brake pedal. That application should cause the engine to stall and be confirmation that the rear brake is in fact operating. When I was having my issues with the rear brake, I too had a hard pedal, but the rear caliper was not operating at all.

Yeah, like Snaggletooths photos, here is one bad ass satin black stripper:

Here's one. Might find some more, I'll keep looking.

I was not able to lock up the rear brake on a gravel road after removing the proportioning valve spool, so I decided it was good. One mitigating factor may have been the "progressive" (Skydoc's term) FJ1300 rear caliper. It has un-equal sized pistons, that Earl says activate progressively, instead of all at once. Also, I retained the stock organic rear brake pads, but installed sintered (SBS, equal to EBC HH) brake pads on the front. Since the proportioning valve or its internal parts are not called out with separate part numbers, how did you find, and what parts did you use to make it work correctly?

Yeah, I looked inside at the proportioning valve and it LOOKED BRAND NEW with no apparent issues.

A couple summers ago, I had the issue of no rear brake. Bleeding, bleeding, bleeding did nothing. I tried all the tricks: reverse bleed (pump fluid from the rear caliper bleed screw into the rear reservoir); weighting the brake pedal down and waiting overnight; bleeding at the triple tree; bleeding, bleeding the front; cracking the banjo bolt at the metering valve, ad nauseum. I had that proportioning valve apart several times; tried different configurations to assembling the proportioning valve; obtained a rebuilt/refurbished FJ1300 rear caliper from Skydoc; rebuilt the rear master cylinder with a new kit. Nothing seemed to work for long. Finally, I gutted the proportioning valve and after some more bleeding (there is a large void in the proportioning valve that must be filled with fluid) I had a reliable rear brake. I have noticed no adverse effects from having no functioning proportioning valve. My rear brake is still linked to the left front.

If there is any cryptic numbers molded into the plastic of the seat base, there may be a clue. Yamaha prefixes are indicated of models (kinda). For instance, any part number beginning with 26H was used on the First Gen Ventures (and others), 1FK was First Gen V-Max, 4XY was often used on Second Gen Ventures, etc. Depending on year the Road Star might have 5VR for a part number prefix.