Prairiehammer

These are the proper length (5.75") for our Ventures and the Goldwings. The PO managed to get the left grip on fully, but failed on the right grip. I don't know why. Maybe he put the right grip on the left side first, only to discover that the smaller left grip was too tight on the throttle tube and he ran out of time and the epoxy cured enough to prevent further installation.

She probably walked away muttering something about "young people nowadays"... Just saying, one young whipper-snapper to another.

Thanks! This "young whipper-snapper" (61½ years old) needed that ego boost.

WTB: Bushtec Turbo+2. Black is preferred, but if the price and location are good, well, you know.

Brian, your "seniority" is showing again. I don't have a RSV. The troublesome grip is on my 1991. But, it is OK, I still appreciate the help.

Congratulations, Bob. And that Dart trailer looks almost like mine (used to be).

That method works for conventional grips, but these heated grips consist of a soft rubbery compound cemented to a RIGID tube that contains the heating element. One can not work any tool between the rigid internal tube and the motorcycle's throttle tube. And the outboard end of the heated grip is closed, precluding attempts to break the epoxy loose. And at $58 per grip from Hot Grips, I am trying valiantly to save the grips. See above. There is no way to inject air between the grip and the throttle tube. What little void MAY have existed before being glued and installed was filled with impenetrable epoxy.

I did heat it internally, note that I had the grip heater running (direct wired to a deep cycle trolling motor battery). Nothing happened after 25 minutes, so I added some external heat in addition to the internally generated heat.

None, Brian. I tried heating with a heat gun (1500 watt) while running the heater in the grip, but there was no movement or degradation of the epoxy. I did succeed in softening the grip's outer surface to the point of leaving weaving impressions from the shop rag I was using to protect my hands as I attempted to elicit some movement. My next attempt is going to involve removing the grip/throttle tube from the bike and immersing the whole thing in boiling water. If that fails, the grip and throttle tube are going into a 250º oven. I have contacted Hot Grips™ support via email, but they have not replied.

Recently, I removed the clutch lever to clean and lube the various pivots and the clutch switch. As I removed the lever the pushrod fell out. I thought nothing of it and continued with the task at hand and reassembled everything with out any issues. Later, while reading another member's thread about the clutch operation, someone mentioned that the push rod will remain in the master cylinder bore. Mine fell out, so I became curious as to why my push rod literally jumped out of the master cylinder as I removed the lever. I looked in the parts diagram to observe the correct assembly of the push rod and noted that none of the diagrams show a spring on the push rod, yet my assembly had a compression spring installed on the longer shank of the push rod. This spring acts to keep the push rod against the brass bushing and apparently keeps the lever pushed out away from the grip. Perhaps it also ensures that the switch plunger is properly depressed while riding, thereby ensuring the cruise control functions properly. It seems obvious now that the spring is a work around for some deficiency in the clutch lever assembly. How deep is the hole in the brass bushing supposed to be? If the push rod receiving hole in the bushing is worn deeper than new, then the push rod will lose some of it's effective travel and the lever will not be pushed forward enough to depress the cruise control switch. The spring that is installed would act to take up this slack, maintaining proper switch contact. The cruise control works and I have not had any issues with it inappropriately disengaging. My question: should I leave the spring installed?

Steve, I'm trained as a draftsman (in 1960's/1970's). Manual drafting. It's hard to translate pen and paper drawings to CNC, though.

I have used TurboCad Professional since 1999. It is not a free download, but you can find sealed CD's for the older versions on eBay for as little as $5.00. There is a pretty steep learning curve to utilize the full capabilities of TurboCad Professional, but TurboCad offers "Designer 2D", a simpler less capable version. http://www.turbocad.com/

I had a RIVCO spin on adapter on my '90 and I want one for my '91, but RIVCO doesn't sell them for the VR any longer. I wish the guy who salvaged my '90 would answer my email inquiries about the RIVCO from my old bike. He could make some more money...

Were those Spyder RT Limiteds 2014 models (with the 1300cc triple)?

Todd, that "junction block" is called the metering valve by Yamaha. I've never heard of a leak from it internally before, but it obviously can happen. I don't think the rubber internals are available separately from the metering valve assembly, nor is the metering valve assembly available. Since ordinarily, the metering valve seems to be trouble free, I would get a used one. Or delink the brakes, whereupon, the metering valve is not needed.

That's OK, Gary. From my OP: Brian, I agree. My research indicates that heat is effective for decomposing epoxy. The trick is to heat the epoxy sufficiently without damaging the grip or the throttle tube.

My Venture is equipped with Hot Grips™ heated grips. The right grip is not fully installed onto the throttle tube, leaving it approximately three-eighths shy of the switch housing. This is unsightly and annoying, because of the increased reach to the various switches, especially the cruise control button. According to Hot Grip, the grip should have been installed with a slow set epoxy. There is some epoxy appearing residue on the end of the grip closest to the switch housing. How would one remove the grip without damaging the grip or the throttle tube?

Bob, most of the hitches I've seen for the MKII are bolted to the bike's frame at the muffler mount. Like this:

Bob, Does the one you have look like this?

When you get to the drop down menu for "state", select the blank spot above AK (Alaska). Hover your cursor over the blank spot, notice it is highlighted and then click this highlighted blank spot. Then, there will be no state selected.

Dingy is the current V-Max guru on here and will prolly speak up to correct me, but it is my understanding that virtually everything from the heads down are the same as a First Gen Venture. Crankcase, crankcase covers, engine and transmission internals. Color is different, but I think the parts are interchangeable. Correct, Dingy?

Yes, Brian it is that simple; loosen the clamp and remove the bolt that fastens the muffler to the frame. Depending on the orientation of the clamp, the clamp bolt may be difficult to get a wrench onto fully. Once the clamp is loosened and the frame mounting bolt removed, vigorous pulling, twisting and wiggling will finally pull the muffler from the collector. The thick tubular muffler to collector gasket may come off with the muffler or it may remain on the collector stub.

Just a FYI: there a couple items missing from the pictured hitch that are required for properly mounting to a MKI. The two short "tangs" are to be bolted to the crash bars utilizing a "clamp". The clamps look like this: There are a pair on eBay right now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400501250098?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Here is a pic of the Markland hitch instructions for mounting to a MKI. Bob the OP is offering a Markland trailer hitch for a MKI. You have a 1983-1985 in addition to your '87?

Hair is over rated anyway...

Thank you, Gary. I do appreciate that. Since the one I found is rather deformed, would you send me two? You have my address, I presume.