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I'm sure I did not spin the cam on an empty bucket before it was stuck. I did spin it later as the clearance was so great I was curious if the cam lobe would contact the bucket without a shim. It did, but didnt make it any worse. The measured clearance was .06 (exhaust) I took out a 285 shim and replaced with a 275 (per the chart) I spun the cam to seat the shim and then remeasured and noticed the large gap and realized my problem was a stuck bucket. Not too small a shim..I can get alot of shims in that space. I have done everthing to the bucket to get the bucket to come up without success. Thoughts?

Hi Neil.. Is this a yes no answer or are there extenuating circumstances? No. Initially low clearance --replaced with smaller shim---rechecked AFter spinning cam to seat new shim. High clearance ... on inspection bucket too low... took shim out and realized bucket is now the problem. I spun the cam with no shim AFTER the fact and thought it might have been the shim tool off center Etc.

no the bucket that holds the shim is not rising up. Its does go down but wont rise like the other 3 in the cylinder. Yes plenty of compression. I like the debris idea, but I don't have a reason to believe that theory when I just used a shim tool and the engine has run fine

Guys I need some advice I started adjusting Cylinder #1 exhaust valves...used the shim tool replace the shim...remeasured clearance and it has a LARGE clearance and now can see that the bucket is not completely risen to original height. I can depress the bucket with a screwdriver. I can "spin" the bucket with a screwdriver and soft taps. I cant pry the bucket up. When cranking the engine by hand the cam lobe will push the shim and bucket down. My thoughts. #1.The shim tool was off center and burred the bucket not allowing it to rise fully. #2 the valve is stuck somehow( should spring back up) #3 what was I thinking? Any thoughts....and the last resort would be to start the engine. I dont want to mess with the cams at all as I'm already in over my head.

Well for starters something is shutting it off but it may take a bit of investigating. I remember reading in the cruise section that there is a feedback mechanism that when you turn on the cruise switch it will Blink a # of times according to which function is out. I cant remember which light on the cruise set up it is . Its worth a check to start things off.Dave

Yes but the L-shaped plastic going from housing to water pump has 2 o rings as well,,,and you generally end up taking this off as well. The t-housing as 2 allen type bolts that hold it to the block. The plastic housing has 2 screws. You need to take off the Right header exhaust( 2 allens) to get to it. May or may not need a gasket there. Yep its an o ring for the T housing Oh and the coolant bypass in the base of the t stat housing has an o ring as well. I didn't count the orings but it may be more than one.

My 86 VR has a lot of feedback mechanisms that allow the cruise to engaged or not....clutch handle has to be totally out, brake handle and foot brake as well. When was the last time you used it? Has it ever functioned? I ask because if not you need to trouble shoot a lot of systems to get it back. Dave

I took my cylinders to Lincoln Clutch n Brake....labor was 35/each...I bought the rebuild kits on ebay....they hone if need be..I was happy and the dealer wanted 95 per cylinder just for labor...it's not hard to do yourself but didnt like my first attempt...Dave

What do you folks use for mount the weird shape of the 1st GEN handlebars. Ilike to put a cup holder and a phone mount but haven't found something to clamp that shape....ideas? Dave

no you dont remove the brake handle assembly at all! Dave

Yea that is a bit tricky ...but as mentioned in the previous reply a small blade screwdriver works well to depress the switch's notched locking mechanism. I think I spent an evening figuring that out how to get it out and its elusive on 1st glance....be gentle...if you can get by only lubricating the plunger and NOT taking the switch apart your better off....it's not complicated but it doesn't take much to screw it up....I actually had to eventually buy another brake handle assembly just for the Brake switch wiring as mine was beyond repairing....

Just for starters....these bikes have a lot of sounds that don't add up to a hill of beans....I've heard all kinds of whines, clunks and rattles......wouldn't get obcessed...enjoy the ride and if its an easy rattle or whine ..fix it..don't go looking for trouble..just enjoy it the bike for what it is...old and crickety...but fast and dependable,,,

nope i dont believe my 86 will fit a 99

I hadn't seen that before....nor thought of it...but I have seen some goo eee fluids before so I guess it shouldnt surprise me ... thanks

I had adjusted my pedal a bit too much as well and the rear brakes started locking up...re adjust. Then re bled the system as it sounds as though it may be air locked in front....you did the fairing bleeder as well...I think you mentioned that ..good luck

I'd be interested in swapping. I can send you pics. My is an 86 VR brown seat no tears. No back rest. Is your Corbin brown? Dave 402 540 1288

OMG is that the only way to get it out? Somebody help this guy!! Mines leaking too and I need an easier way.

Its exasperating....initially getting that clutch slave in and then bleeding....I definitely remember its was harder to bleed then put the slave in...but it was that constant squeezing ...then i got the vacuum....which with the master lid off and the clutch lever engaged/cable tied shouldn't splash BUT you need to assume the worse and cover up...the reason to leave it off is so it WONT go dry and pull air in....I reliving the saga thru you...let us know how it goes

I bled like this.....fill clutch cylinder leave lid off..... use a cable tie on clutch handle to open reservoir. Apply suction tool from harbor freight---20 bucks---to clutch slave bleeder....keep reservoir full...suck.....fill,,,, suck .....fill.....suck.....fill .....close clutch bleeder... top off ...lid on cylinder......done.... good luck

Did a you fiddle with the pedal adjustment at all in the rear?

I seen reports of 2 hr job. Is that possible and I've seen reports that you don't need to deal with the friction plates....just a pressure plate and some type of smooth ring....no need to remove basket in most cases....am i full of it? Dave

I challenge you to push start this beast when the starter is hot. Its not pretty. I have a starter coming from PinWall (330 879 9910) off a 2007 Royal Star for 59.95. I have an 86 VR 2 brush. They do not list every starter on Ebay. Be careful how you ask as they will NOT BE ABLE to cross reference as they dont match up that way. We know all 1300 starter will fit so years 1991-93 1996-2007 . Pinwall will give you the year and usually the mileage as well. Just ask them to check ANY yamaha 1300 within those years. Then just figure out what suits your needs. I have suffered since the day I bought this 4 years ago......always drags when hot and it has always started until last week 50 miles from home at a lil country gas station.. 2 kids pushed the hell out 900 lbs to get me going. I'm done with that...... Dave

they're cheap but we're cheaper. I have only removed the the right exhaust at the engine and loosened the collector connection. I pulled the pipe out several inches and turned it to the right to access thermostat. I had gaskets but did not use them and all is well. My2cents. Dave

Dont go by part # as this will lead to confusion. 91-93 VR are all 4 brush. All 2nd generations are 4 brush so you can find a low mileaged starter in many models. My search revealed a lot OE replacements on the market with poor components...not my 1st choice...find a salvaged take off from a 2nd generation...with low miles if possible. My 2cents.

I leave mine on reserve all the time. I usually fill between 110-130 miles to avoid problems and I'm generally wanting to stretch a bit by that time. My 2cents.