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Chaharly

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Chaharly last won the day on July 15 2023

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About Chaharly

  • Birthday 05/07/1993

Personal Information

  • Name
    CJ Umberger

location

  • Location
    Norfolk, NE, United States

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  • City
    Norfolk

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  • State/Province
    NE

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Mechanics, Music, Fishing, Dirt Bike Riding
  • Bike Year and Model
    1988 Venture Royale

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  1. Thanks for the heads up! I've got one put back together today. I dropped the spring in it, threaded it by hand and then use the impact to tighten it the rest of the way. Filled it with oil and no leak, so I know it snugged up all the way! Unfortunately I'm missing the three washers, the two spring washers and the spacer on the roadside fork. I bought these forks used because the first time I attempted this job, I damaged my inner fork tube. I've put 70k miles on these tubes since purchase, and I see no damage from those washers being missing. It's just strange that they were in the curbside fork which I completed, but not the roadside fork. I'm not really sure what the purpose of the washers are, but now I'm in the hunt for a set of those.
  2. I think I will then, especially since I’ll be doing steering head bearings in the near future
  3. Hey guys! I've been working away and the Venture, just rebuilt the twinkie and about 3/4 of the way finished with the carb rebuild (get yourself a sonic cleaner, works wonders!). I'm about to start on replacing the fork seals. When I initially installed the progressive springs, I decided against using the PVC spacer that was included in the box. Now that I'm riding 2-up more frequently, i'd like to put them back in during the seal replacement. It's a 1" PVC spacer correct? What was the length that came with the progressive springs? Also, I'm going to replace the gaiters on this job as well. I know the diameter is 40mm, is 7.5 inch of travel going to be enough? I'm going to look around a little more for some how-tos on the seal installation tool, as I plan to do the seals with the forks on the bike. If I can't find them I'm going to edit the post and ask some questions about that as well. Always looking forward to the knowledge from you guys on here! Thanks!
  4. Thanks! Skydoc_17 helped me find the replacement bearings and races! Thanks Rick! I appreciate it! I've already installed progressives about 70K miles ago, now I just have sad, weeping fork seals. I may add a little more to the spacer to make up for the mileage slack. I'm a little nervous about the steering head bearings, but I've got all winter and decently heated garage to take my time to do it!
  5. So it looks like ive found the steering head bearings. Do i need to replace the the races as well? I never really notice any looseness in my steering but at 90k miles I feel its due. I'm also due for a fork seal change and as I see it on Partzilla, it looks like there are 2 part numbers for each piece of the front fork assembly. I obviously need new oil seals which are part 6 and 36. Should I replace the dust seals as well? Looking at Freebird's tech write up, I see a copper bushing and another bushing towards the bottom of the fork assembly. Here's a picture with the bushings 21.jpg (640×480) (venturerider.org) I dont think i see them on the partzilla page shown here Yamaha Motorcycle 1988 OEM Parts Diagram for FRONT FORK | Partzilla.com Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks guys
  6. Thats a real pretty bike Don. My buddy just picked up a 2015 Road Glide with 11,000 miles. One owner bike. Came with a trailer and travel pack etc. Its a really nice bike! He let me ride it home and all and all I enjoyed it. It has the 103 and it's got plenty of power, still no Venture though I'm still riding my first gen, just crossed over 90k miles after doing a 1400 mile 3 day ride to the Black Hills and back. I bet that 114 makes for a super fun machine! Don, have you had the chance to ride one of the new GoldWings yet?
  7. I've had it happen where the clutch fluid has leaked out of my master cylnder, but the rubber cap sucked in so I couldn't actually see in the glass that its empty. If i was gonna bet 100 bucks, I'd say he's gonna need to add brake fluid to the clutch lines and bleed! Best of luck.
  8. Just an update, got everything put back together. Did very minor adjustments on the float height but had two of those rubber plugs on the jet blocks almost totally pushed out. Thanks to cimmer for mentioning that, need to synch the carbs and take it for a run to see if I find any improvement!
  9. I think you have to pull the motor to change out the u-joint. If i remember correctly, and its verrrrry possible I'm wrong. There's no grease fitting on the u-joint. The 83-85 have bad second gears. You'll find information on exactly what it is. You have to split the case to change it, but the part itself is a couple bucks lol. Another thing you'll find is the front forks will start to bottom out. Most guys upgrade with progressive springs. Get those things out of the way (and you can drive without 2d gear) and she'll run for 200,000 miles. Generally speaking they're pretty easy to work on. I really like fiddling with mine. These motors are pretty bulletproof. Most guys dont even do valve adjustments! Enjoy your beautiful bike!
  10. Have you checked spark plugs to see if you've got a lean condition? Depending on speed and wind, that kind of mileage seems a little too good to be true (not saying you're fibbing, just genuinely curious if the A/F mixture seems right). I might be interested in trying it if it can consistently pull good results like that.
  11. Hey guys, over the winter I had a set of rebuilt carbs sent to me from a member on a facebook group and ever since then I have been dealing with a bad rich fuel condition. When i first got the set, it came with aftermarket needle jet slides and the bike would barely carry its own butt down the road. I replaced them with the OEM ones from my set and it ran better. My brother in law told me he could smell fuel when riding behind me and the bike starts to cut out and fall flat at wide open throttle. I installed a set of thinner needle shims that I purchased @skydoc_17, (great dude by the way. Would do business with him any time) and adjusted the pilot jets to what I think isn't terribly too rich. My pilot jets are only turn about 1/4 turn out, and unless they're totally closed the bike will idle perfectly and really never needs to be choked (rich condition). On a good day, with a tail wind, doing 55mph, I'm lucky to get 36-37mpg. Before switching to these carbs I would have easily pulled over 40. So that leads me to my question. I want to take the carbs off the bike and adjust the float height. Looking at my old set of carbs, it looks like i need to dissasemble them from the rack to get the bowl covers off. Do I have to re-assemble them, then level them upside down as an assembly, or do I do one at a time? Also in this thread, the OP says that you don't let the float compress the needle all the way? How do you prevent that while the carbs are upside down? Here's the link to the thread I was reading. Also what size of clear hose are you guys using for the wet test? Thanks so much in advance guys! Good riding!
  12. Those would have to be some really, REALLY nice recliners!
  13. The lady and I have a short trip planned to the Ozarks around Eminence Missouri in May. I'd love to tack on a bigger trip this year, but with starting a new job and her wanting to go to Mexico to see her dad is probably going to shorten this season for me!
  14. The warranty is exactly why my sister continues to buy Kia vehicles. I have to say that they make a hell of a car IMHO
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