bongobobny

Dan, trailer it or ride it DIRECTLY to the Hannigan factory and save money!! Hannigan charges for shipping and crating of the parts to the dealer to the tune of over a thousand dollars or so. That alone will pay for a nice 5 day vacation in Murray, Kentucky. Drop the bike off on Monday morning, pick it up Friday afternoon, and the job will be done RIGHT!!!

PS to what Dave, Videoarizona posted, we just took a large black beach sized towel and rolled it up and put it in there, the wife said it helped with support...

No, unfortunately Larry, Carbon One, stopped making them a few tears ago. You may want to check with Diamond R, they may still make them. Venturerider gets us a discount, check in vendors forums..

...or Zero!

Excellent!!!!!

When it kicks on, you can hear it, it's sort of a whirring sound...

Yes, my first question is going to be, are you the original owner of the bike?? I'm thinking probably not, you just bought it used. That being the case there is a possibility the previous owner had moved the trunk back. There are two positions for the trunk with the existing holes, one set places the trunk about an inch or so further back than the stock position. A backrest will limit her seating space a little in the front, sooo it may make her feel closer to you even though she isn't. YOU will enjoy the backrest regardless! Yes, armrests will make her FEEL more secure but just about all the armrests swing out. It's a shame our member Carbon One stopped making his armrests, they were hinged to swing up, not out. MUCH more secure!! I'm sure if your navigator were to lean on her armrest and it started to swing out it would be very unnerving if not downright dangerous!! They do give a person a feeling of being securely surrounded though as well as being a creature comfort. Welcome aboard!! We're glad to have you with us!!!

Cool!!

Hey, wait a minute!! TEA PARTY??? Isn't this now officially a POLITICAL thread and it needs to be banned???

Uncle DJ yes the entire audio system is the same for all RSV's no matter which year.

Try a R1/R6 master cylinder with those R6 calipers, it may make the difference. Then again, stainless steel brake lines will also reduce some of the travel...

Ummmm, Route 20 across New York state can be a nice scenic fun ride that goes through a bunch of towns with country between them. Actually that was one of Jonsey's favorite road to get to this side of the state...

Yes they are Pucster!! Either term is correct. Electronic Technicians tend to call then "Capacitors" whereas Auto Mechanics tend to call them "Condensers" because due to their application across the points, they tend to "condense" the voltage level across the points. A Capacitor is basically two thin pieces of metal separated by an insulator called a dielectric. What happens is on each side of the dielectric, on the metal conductive plates, electrons accumulate, or disburse depending on if it is a + (deficiency of electrons) or a - (surplus of electrons). Once a capacitor is "charged" with electricity, each metal plate will now resist a change in the voltage level! Also, when they are discharged they tend to stay that way. A capacitor's main function in life is to resist a change in voltage level! OK, in the case of ignition points, as you know, the points connect and disconnect the ground on the primary side of the coil. The other side of the coil primary has a constant 12 volts (6 volts on the really old timers). Now coils are really just a very long piece of wire! When the ground side of the coil is disconnected from ground (points open) there is the full 12 volts on that terminal which also appears on the one end of the points! Coils do NOT resist changes in voltage level like a capacitor does, their main function in life is to resist a change in current which is a rate of electrons flowing past a given spot. Voltage is a Pressure, or charge LEVEL of electrons, current is a QUANTITY of electrons flowing. Anyway, when the points are open, 12 volts is appearing across the points for a split second (the points are closed longer than they are open) so normally the capacitor sees zero volts on each side of it until the points open. When the points open the capacitor resists the change in voltage, or "condenses" that momentary 12 volts to a smaller level instantaneously but will slowly start to charge up to 12 volts. Just how fast or slow a capacitor charges or discharges depends on two factors, the value of capacitance and the resistance in the circuit. This is called a time constant. Capacitance is determined by the area of the plates and the distance between them and is measured in Farads, named after Mr, Faraday who discovered the property of electrical capacitance. A "Farad" is a REALLY big value, kind of like the Bel for sound level, so it is usually measured in micro or micro micro levels, micro being a millionth! So, in summary, a Capacitor is what the device IS, a Condenser is what the device DOES!! Enough scoolin' for ya Puc???

Yes, pretty much it breaks up around 11:00 EST. Shame some of the west coast people don't get involved with chat...

Hmmm, around here 2nd gen radio stuff isn't in high demand but occasionally there is a market for it. I agree totally the prices on ebay are out of this world...

I was thinking maybe take a piece of 1 1/4 o.d.PVC pipe and slice it in half to make a bushing up but yeah, gorilla tape would work too...

Hmmm, my RSV is still sleeping for the winter so I can't run out and try this, but, by any chance is the AVI (speed sensitive automatic volume level) turned up all the way??? That may effect how loud it is with the bike stopped... The only other thing that would mute the audio would be the PTT switch on the left side of the handlebars was stuck on. But I think that totally mutes the radio, etc...

All the audio and radio electronics are inside the top fairing with exception of the CB, which is under the trunk, etc. You have to split the fairing to get to everything, but it is not hard to do! It is basically 8 metric hex head screws, 4 on each side of the edge of the driver's side of the fairing. There is also one screw on the bottom of the headlight chrome ring. If you have aftermarket passing lights installed, the bracket has to be at least loosened if not totally removed to get the front fairing piece off. When you remove the 8 inside metric hex screws, the top one on each side come out first, these screws are different from the other 6 and hold the plastic chrome windshield piece in place. Be VERY careful not to break the plastic tabs on that chrome piece, it is very easy to do! Sort of lift the piece straight up and do not force it! You will find the electronics dead center on a bracket. There are several cables that disconnect. These are the connections that were previously mentioned, disconnect each one, spray with contact cleaner, and seat and reseat the connectors several times to help the contact cleaner do it's thing! Then use some dielectric grease, available at Auto Zone, etc., and being VERY careful NOT to get the grease on the pins or sockets, seal up the connectors for the final connecting. The grease is to keep moisture from getting into the connectors. It is an INSULATOR so that's why you want to be cafreful not to get any on the actual metal pins and sockets...

Well, it is a possibility that with the carb cleaner it loosened a piece or two of crud and now it is partially or completely clogging a jet or passageway or something. Because you stated it runs great at idle I'm kind of doubting it's an electrical issue unless the TPS, if indeed the '96 has one, has gone south, which WILL effect the ignition advance. If you take off the air box, can you see how the plungers "Dance?" They should all open and close pretty much in unison... This may be a little "out there" but how about your air cleaners?? If they get plugged up it could be starving the carbs for air. Also, along those lines, these bikes DO NOT run right with the air cleaners removed, i.e. the air boxes open... With the slides, also check the rubber diaphragms for pinholes, even the slightest hole can play havoc! Check out how the carbs react physically to throttle twisting and get back to us! Hopefully someone with more experience with the '96 - '01 will chime in. I do know the carbs are the smaller 28mm and bolt different than the RSV carbs.

Yah! And the rubber compresses when you clamp it! I used a 1" U bolt clamp and it worked out OK for us, but that was also with a fabricated bracket and a "cup" big enough to hold as wine bottle...

Hopefully they are still open for business, QSL went under and was just bought by another company...

Dennis, for the unequal front shocks, check that both shocks have the exact amount of air pressure in them!! Unlike the First Generation Venture where the two shocks are connected pneumatically to each other, the Second Generation are independent...

Yah!! And the capacitor would short out and you would be scratching your head because you put in nice brand new points and correctly set the gap...

Hey, good to know TJ!! I was just thinking today that I better make my reservations soon...

I may pop in tonight for a few minutes around 9 to 10...