Jump to content

Fannydunk

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    10

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Fannydunk

  1. Fannydunk
    For the last few years, it spins fast when cold, and then real slow when hot. My local shop tells me it is the ground plate on the brushes.
  2. Fannydunk
    My starter to dragging and sometimes it will start, but most times not. What is the path of least resistance to removing the starter. My manual shows removing it after the engine is out.
  3. Fannydunk
    Thanks all. I took the shocks off AGAIN. I was able to compress the right one with just my weight. It would bottom out. I was not able to bottom out the left. I think my man got the washers wrong. Is it true the manual is wrong on how the oil lock piece gos in?
  4. Fannydunk
    Hi all. I read the threads about bottoming forks. My question is, this did not happen until I had the shop put new seals in. A local person tells me there is a part inside the fork, that if it is upside down, it will limit the shock travel. Anyone know if there is any truth to this. Thanks. Another question? Do the forks need to be bled? I put the oil in after the forks were on the bike.
  5. Fannydunk
    Thanks for all the info. I think I will try taking it out and back in. I can't believe changing the steering head bearings would cause it not to work.
  6. Fannydunk
    Anybody know where I should look first? I rebuilt my fork seals and steering head bearings on my 89 Venture. All back togeather, the CLASS system worked the first time, but won't work now. I keep getting an E1 message. Thanks Dan.
  7. Fannydunk
    Saddle Bag, I just finished rebuilding my 89 VR. I got that rubber piece from my local dealer. If the same part fit yours they are still available. My was as yours, so out of shape it would never fit back in. Also I got a master cyclinder rebuild kit. It was about $55.00
  8. Fannydunk
    Thanks Greg. My 89 does not have a ball bearing in the proportioning valve. It has a little copper or brass piece about an inch and a quarter long with a rubber piece on the end. This is forced into the bottom of the valve and held in place by a spring that surrounds it. Am I to understand I could take this out and put the cap back on and have brakes like an older moto?
  9. Fannydunk
    The manual calls the valve under the steering head a metering valve. It calls the one attached to the master cyclinder a proportioning valve. I'm wondering if the metering valve has a slider in it that isolates the front from the back if one or the other fail.
  10. Fannydunk
    I hope someone out there can help. My 89 VR rear brake didn't let all the way off after an emergency stop. It heated up to the point it pulled the bike to a stop about 3 miles later. I have I have rebuilt the caliber and it looks good, no rust or pits. Next I took the master cyclinder off and thought I had found it stuck. I freed it up and worked it off and on all day by hand. it had good return every time. I put it back on bike and used it to fill the left front caliber. When I went to fill the rear caliber the peddle would not go down at all, even with the rear caliber line unhooked. Question? Does the metering valve under the fairing have a slider valve that isolates the front caliber from the rear, like cars used to have, or is it a proportioning? I have read all the post I can find, and I don't see any mention of the metering valve I appreciate any info, Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...