MiCarl

It only happens at VR.org and happens from work and home....... VentureRider.org used to be the fastest of the sites I accessed from either place. In fact, it was so good I switched my own server to the same outfit Don uses. Maybe my stuff is so good now I'm spoiled........

The site seems slower than it used to be, and at times it virtually stops. I think this started about the time the shoutbox was added. I wonder if it's a resource hog?

I rebuilt mine. Only took half a day to polish it up and I think I saved a whole $10!

You probably have two issues: 1) You're losing pressure in the clutch hydraulics. If the fluid level is going down it's likely the clutch slave cylinder. If you're not losing fluid it's probably time for a master cylinder rebuild. 2) The clutch itself needs service. New friction discs and springs. Steels are likely still good, but you won't know for sure until you inspect it. Oh, and after you fix it replace the brake and clutch fluid at least every two years. DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid absorb moisture over time. That moisture and resulting gunk are not good for the master and slave cylinders.

I had a long-term girlfriend in college. One day she asked me "Why do you win every argument we have?". My answer: "I think about what I'll say and what you'll say and if I'm going to lose I don't argue." That's why she married someone else.

Oh wait. It doesn't, that's why you're talking bluetooth..... Anyhow, there are headsets that can connect to various hard wired systems with the appropriate connecting cord. I just got my wife a headset for Christmas with 2 cords - one for the Venture and the other for the J&M CB she has on her bike. You might give Sierra Motorcycle Electronics a call to find out which headsets give the most flexibility. They helped me quite a bit with my purchase.

Sorry, Does the V-max have a factory intercom? If so it should be the same headset.

The lower mark is enough, the upper is maximum. At maximum though a lot gets into the air box, thus the recommendation to stop at the mid point. 1) The light on does not necessarily mean the pump is not picking up oil, just that the level at the front of the engine is below the sensor. Part of the reason it comes on is a lot of oil is pumped up into the engine. 2) Even if the pump did get starved you cannot keep up that kind of acceleration long enough to do damage without killing yourself first.

You do not EVER want to win an argument with a woman! The price is just too high. Been there, done that.

No don't do that! If you top it off it blows oil into the air box and then it runs out the drain making a mess on the ground. Mid-point is where you want it. Don't worry about the light under hard acceleration.

If you tell us what the other bike is we might be able to help you with a headset that will work for both.......

The radio panel doesn't anchor real tight. I've had mine cut out on severe bumps. Start by pulling the radio out and re-inserting it.

I have an acquaintance that has a handicapped tag on his Vulcan. He wasn't able to walk far and always had the cane on the bike with him. I haven't seen him in a few month. He's got other health issues now, and I think he's stopped riding.

Pull the switch housing off. Stick the nozzle of your air gun up against the grip and blow. It'll break any adhesive and lift the rubber off the bar. Slide it off while still blowing - it works like air hockey.

I run Kenda Kruz on my 1st Gen., and it's the tire I sell the most of in my shop. Since I don't write myself service orders I've never had a mileage record but I have a friend with a RoadStar that gets about 12,000 miles from a set. Have not put many on 2nd gen Ventures though. Most of the 2nd gen folks I know want the Venoms on them.

My wife's Aviator has heated/cooled seats. I like the cooled seat more than I like heated.

Pull the carbs off and remove the bowls. Invert them and spray some water with a little dish soap on the float valves. Blow in the fuel line. Look for bubbles around the float needles and around where the float valve fits into the carburetor body. Then you'll know just where it's leaking.

Notice the mini-van parked in front of it. Guess who gets to drive that.

If you need two of each to do two forks.

I just remembered you also have an '88 (update your profile!). '88 is not adjustable.

A '99 is not a 1st gen. The 1st Gen MKII do not, but I believe the MKI does have an adjustable foot peg.

I used to manage a couple RadioShack stores. The selection in those drawers wasn't what it was in the '70s and '80s. The contents of those drawers was controlled by corporate. By the time I left most of the old time components were gone, replaced by other small items. I'm pretty sure all the DIN stuff was gone. It's possible you saw one in a franchise store (corporate doesn't control their inventory) or something left over that store staff never bothered to clean out.

RadioShack hadn't had anything like that for years. Try maybe an electronics specialty place. I gotta believe the bone yards are full of the whole assembly. You might contact Pinwall Cycle. In the meantime, the connection between the headset and RC jacks is for the attenuator (volume control). What that knob does is reduce the volume from what the amp puts out. If you plug the headset in directly it will work as if the passenger volume control is set to max.

SilvrT reminded me: They need to be under the bike where the gremlins are. Up high won't work. I have proof of this. We bought my wife a V-STAR 650 that had been crashed and the rider severely injured. The guardian bell was attached to the key. Not only is that too high, but gremlins were probably climbing on while it was parked.

If they're not actually stuck and there is any of the slot left a proper fitting tool will probably get them. I have been known to use a Dremmel to cut a new slot, which is not fun. Another thing you can try is a very sharp left hand drill bit, at slow speed with lots of pressure so it cuts a big chip - you want it to grab rather than drill. DO NOT TRY TO BREAK IT LOOSE WITH A STANDARD BIT, IF YOU SPIN IT DOWN AND JAM THE NEEDLE YOU'RE DONE! A smaller pilot hole will help it grab. A good healthy soak of penetrating oil before you start won't hurt any either. I have not heard of anyone having success with screw extractors. Some heat can help stuck screws. You need to completely disassemble the carb to keep from damaging other parts. That includes removing the butterfly shaft and the seals on it, which are not meant to be disassembled. I have heated without pulling the butterfly shaft but you need to get a lot of heat on the screw hole fast, break it free, then quench the thing before the shaft seals melt.