Pasta Burner

Good to know. I cut a piece of 2x6 to keep in the saddlebag, the only way I can get it on the center is to put the rear tire on the board first. And yes I’ve found more air helps, but not enough.

Thanks for all the replies. No update as I’ve been consumed in housework this weekend. I did walk past it about 200 times today and thought about messing with it. The dreaded center stand stopped me. I had my right knee reconstructed and a ligament replaced less than a year ago; it’s very painful to get it up on there and was already bothered from yard duty. I will get to this within the week though.

Thanks for the info guys. I’m gonna dig into it further and thanks for the tip on how to jack up the front end without a motorcycle jack. Which I still might get anyway. The front right caliper and rotor was like nothing I’ve ever seen. Inside pad was practically gone and outside practically new. Also slathered in grease, like lithium high temp grease. I think maybe the P.O. wife was trying to kill him 🤷*♂️. I didn’t rebuild the caliper in the interest of getting on the road, but I did scrub a lot of crud off and cleaned it up well. Also got some scum out of the inside as the inside pad was so worn the pistons fell out. Coming from a sport bike where my handbrake controls two four piston calipers on slotted, cross-drilled floating rotors; I naturally expect a lot more when I squeeze that handbrake. Will keep you posted with the progress.

What is the washer you refer to? Is there a washer for each caliper bolt? I have not pulled the rear caliper. I bled the front handbrake and changed the pads, rear and front left pads are good but I plan to bleed that and the clutch while I have fresh fluid.

Only put 100 miles on my new toy and I’ve noticed that the rear brake was pulsing and hot to the touch after a ride. I adjusted everything and got it where I like it and the freeplay where it should be so no more drag. I’m still getting a pulsating brake that is only really noticeable just prior to a stop. In all my experiences this is indicative of a warped rotor, being that these are linked brakes is there an easy test to narrow down front or rear?

Nothing to add. Just again thanking this forum for answering questions on my newly bought 87 VR. Planning my first “long ride” SLC to Denver late June for work if the pandemic allows. Why fly if I can stay healthy and ride.

Got it! Thanks for the help. I feel a little stupid but again I just didn’t want to break something. There are no cotter pins in mine, if there were it would have been a lot more obvious how it went together. Even unbolting it from the frame the brackets stayed in place. Just checked it out in the garage, there was just enough corrosion and tarnish and road dirt to keep the brackets secured. A little extra wiggle and they came right loose. Now to go bolt the brackets back on. Thanks again!

Ok I gotta get to the garage and take a closer look at mine. That looks to be the same setup. Quick question first, it’s not visible in the picture, but what does the cap head screw do in the center of the pivot point? I certainly did not see any cotter pins. For the time being I took it off completely so I could take the kid for a ride. I have rear arm rests too, and I don’t like the idea of her being caged in if something were to go wrong.

Thanx! It should be straightforward, but turning the screws inside where the arms attach to the brackets seems to do nothing. Just don’t want to break something by not knowing how it works. The older I get the smarter I get. As for laundry and food I can handle, but you’re on your own figuring out which side your undies go on

Could you resend or send me that pic? I don't know if it gets deleted from the forum after a while. I just bought an 87 with this backrest but can't figure out how to adjust it/remove it from the brackets. thanks!

I lost one too trying to put that damned plastic cover back over the valve cover. Used an alligator clip until I can get to a store.

Good to know. I think I read in the manual about max weight. I thought it was quite low when I read it. 360 is not hard at all to reach. I’m 200 and my wife at 120 that leaves almost nothing for gear. That being said...who listens to weight ratings hahaha?

Thanks! Seems like this bike has passed through quite a few hands, The previous two owners were in Logan, but in the saddle bag came a box of gaskets (gotta look up the PN to see what they’re for) from a name and address in Layton where I’m at. But wasn’t Lonnie or Aileen. on another note sorry to Lonnie an Aileen but I successfully removed the artwork from the trunk lid using easy off. Wax is currently drying. Nice that I already had the trunk off and can do this on my kitchen counter while watching Ferris Bueller’s day off.

Both front and rear has 0 when I test rode it. The front bottomed out quite easily. The rear bled down from 81 last night to 23 just now. Seems like something I just need to keep an eye on and get used to. I’m sure some seals probably need replacing and or rejuvenating.

I saw a vid on YouTube using laquer thinner, it worked a little but not a lot. Then I saw oven cleaner. Gonna try that today.

Go it, just a trial and error thing. Never had air suspension before, but this info helps. Didn’t know it it was normal to bleed out overnight or hold pressure like a tire.

When do you guys check suspension pressure? The manual tells you how, but not how often. Given that it’s to be done on the center stand it doesn’t seem to be an every time you get on job. Is it daily? At lunchtime on a trip?

These are painted on. Looks like something that would have been done while traveling / vacationing.

I didn’t put near that much in, but a hearty coating of all parts and seals.

it is oilless, I can't figure out how to change the title.

I'll probably Keep White Fang. Thats what I decided to name this steed. But the names on the back are gonna have to go.

You can see my earlier struggles in the replacing desiccant thread I revived. The trouble being a newb is that I don't know what to search for, but some friendly advise put me on the right track. I was having the issue of not getting the rear to put out more than 45 PSI. Found a thread that said to clean the solenoids, I did that and found some metal FOD in two of them. replaced the system and still couldn't build pressure above 40 PSI. My mind was thinking that its a week compressor considering I kept getting the E2 Error. Took the compressor apart and it was dry as a bone sans some lithium grease that probably shouldn't be in there. Oiled it up with some compressor grease and Boom! Pressure builds like I assume it should and the compressor runs much quieter. Low Med and Hi auto work now and Manual I was able to reach 81 PSI. also to note, it was obvious I was not the first one to take this apart as most of the screw heads were slightly stripped. I believe the bolt head between the intake and output of the compressor is for oil, but I couldn't find any info on that and mine would not budge, to reduce further issue It was easier to take the compressor side off. DAMN! I meant to Edit the Title! It's not oilless SO I THINK! I'm NO EXPERT. I JUST FOUND IT WORKS BETTER OILED.

I did the soap and water test and not finding anything obvious. Also just checked it, it's been sitting a little over an hour and the rear pressure still indicated 44. so by that logic once the pressure is into the system it's staying, but getting it there is where the fault is. do you mean the solenoid when you say release valve? I did not take those off the manifold as they seem to sound and click and do what they do well, but that could be the next step. and when you say to check it, what specifically should I be looking for? Thanks for taking an interest.

the manual I have Got it from yahamaVenture.nl says that the rear pressure L=14 M=43 H=71 and Max is 85. I might be looking at something wrong though. where did you get your max number from? if I use the auto Low it works always, Medium sometimes, High always gives E2. Manual override does not allow it to go higher either.