Brenner

It's unanimous we all think you gave the courtesy and respect to the OP and the time to stand up and make the purchase. You made it clear to the seller although you want the item you do not want to step on another's toes. Exactly what I would of done and if more people were like that in this world it would be a much nicer place. Good karma for you as my wife would say. I personally hope it works out for you.

Isolated to the valves by means of a soap test. Lost .4 in 3 hours and small bubbles coming from dryer case. I guess I will pull it apart tomorrow as both front and rear have lost the same amount of pressure. I am running progressive springs in the front but the rear is where it concerns me. I would like this to work correctly as I went to this bike to be able to ride 2 up and pull a trailer. The hitch is on and waiting. Guess I should be happy that I am working through the small stuff now rather than when it goes on the road next month. Thank you to all who replied as it helped knowing what the system is supposed to function like and made it easier to understand and diagnose one of many problems I am working through. I am slowly winning the fight with this project. Thanks again.

Nope, according to Yamaha service manual swingarm diagram page 8-43 item #12 is listed as "grease fitting"

I was looking over my project today and turned the key on to ACC and as the CLASS system functioned a question or thought came to mind. I did not know the answer so I looked into my manuals and see no spec or reference to my question so I thought I would ask here and maybe someone with experience or knowledge might be able to answer or assist me. My question is that my CLASS does work as stipulated in the service manual but I was wondering if the system should hold residual pressure in its off state and if so is there a time spec in which a loss rate could apply? Meaning I operate my CLASS it pressures up and I can leave it there for a while and it will not drop in pressure to kick the compressor in but I think it is not holding pressure over night. I will have to verify to be sure but I am unsure if the system is designed to do this or does it release pressure when off and need be set each time I choose to ride ? My owners manual or service manual does not stipulate anything in regards to this. Any one please, how does your system work and should I be looking for a problem?

I know this might start some debate but for three days now I have had regret/remorse and am trying to figure out how to satisfy my needs or make this feeling disappear. I have been working on my ground up project and stalled during the paint process due to some problems that I am working through. So I decided to turn a few wrenchs and get the bike up and running and ready to ride for this upcoming month when my insurance expires on my current ride. Well my project xvz1200 has a pair of slash cut stainless exhaust pipes on it that some have claimed to be Jardine and some pics I have seen look like a MAC exhaust setup. These pipes came with my project and I honestly have not really thought anything aside from the bike will sound tough and I will enjoy it. Well now comes the regret, I put my bike together naked and synced the carbs and had it running and the more I dialed it in obviously the smoother it ran and once set to spec I was able to take it for a very small ride in my driveway (under 150' each way) to test the second gen gears under load. Well it hit me on the fifth or sixth pass, the bike does not sound like anything I am used to. It was like I was slapped in the face and I instantly had remorse that I ended up riding it back into the shop and have not touched it since. That evening my wife came home and could tell I was not overly happy but I didn't tell her what it was. She wanted to go out and I had to grab something from the garage so she followed me and I ended up starting the bike so she could hear the progress as she never heard it run before. Instantly she commented she knew why I was in my mood and could tell I would not be happy with the sound of the bike. She told me as long as she has know me 20+ years I have never had a vehicle that has not had a different sound or appearance or something different to make it stand out from another vehicle like it. She told me she felt bad as she knows I mainly moved up to the venture so she could ride the back and we could ride distances more comfortably. I told her not to worry and that I would try to make it sound tougher or like a more aggressive bike. So I would like to ask does anyone have experience or know of a way to make this bike sound tougher? I do not want an overly loud bike as it would defeat this bikes purpose but I would like to change the tone and if possible have a deep exhaust note. I am not unrealistic and expecting it to sound like a v-twin but rather something to make it throatier. Example I am not a fan of the sound the tuner cars now at days but rather love the sound of muscle cars. I prefer torque over horsepower and am not a fan of a high reving engine. I know probably not the right choice of bike for that sound but I will have to make due as I cannot afford another bike or to start over again. I await your replies as I search online for Harley mufflers etc... on ebay as a possible solution.

Thank you for this post as it clearly shows my earlier comment to be correct as per Yamaha's recommendation. It is my understanding and belief that alignment is not as critical as some might think but rather the main concern is that the plates not fit too snugly as in Yamaha's words above. I was going to post the same page earlier but did not want to start a heated debate.

Well I broke down and bought a harbor freight kit with the 12" tires as the price was right. I am not sure if I will try to fit it with the M/C tires or not. Looks like it is leaf springs for me as honestly my current project is dragging out and I really want to make use of it and learn how to pull a trailer this year. A question to any who might be able to answer. I have heard of having to lengthen the tongue and if true by roughly how much? I am considering building a swivel hitch and using it to lengthen the tongue.

Cowpuc, I have just gone through my owners manual and dealership service manual for my xvz and cannot find any spec or purpose for this fitting. The shaft splines are supposed to be coated in molybdenum disulfide grease but nothing mentioning the exterior of the coupling gear at which the fitting sits above. When I tore my project down to literally nothing and started the rebuild I too was wondering about this fittings purpose. It is shown in many exploded diagrams but not given any reference to. I see it serving no real purpose and chassis grease is not the same as molybdenum so I would not want to mix the two. On another note one of my parts bike had the rear swing arm full of chassis grease that honestly served no purpose and I believe was the result of the use of this fitting.

Sorry to hear your problem but I have had nothing but great service and results from Pinwall. I even contacted them, asked them to pull an item apart and send pics for me and they went out of their way to do so. I live in Canada but to prevent any cross border problems have a shipping address in the US for my parcels. I have made multiple purchases and at different times. Some prices are a steal, others well I decide if I want to get it a few bucks cheaper and possible hassle or use Pinwall and know they will take care of me. Their inventory goes fast as I have seen an item and went back for it the next day and it was sold. This has happened to me on more than one occasion so it has to say something positive about them.

It is my understanding from reading the service manual and experience with clutches as this that the dots are a general guide and starting point. In my manual it clearly states the dots do not need align but the plates and discs MUST move freely when the clutch is engaged. My manual show three different options to install the discs but each result is the discs and plates must move freely when not under load. Some plates or discs have half circle, some two half circles and some have flat spots according to my manual.

Thanks guys, I have a heated shop and am using base clear. Yup I think my issues are due to cutting through the factory paint when repairing the panels. I am not a professional but can make my projects look a lot nicer than a rattle can job. I will attempt to remedy this problem today and as mentioned earlier believe it to be due to the factory primer/ sealant but with patience I should be able to establish a positive result. Patience- that is one thing I am learning to build. Wish me luck...

Now now, you might just be surprised when you see the paint scheme although it is non traditional on these bikes. Yesterday after posting I headed out to my garage and pulled cans of random colors and left a stripe of each on my test panel to see what fit best. To my surprise against all the colors the silver won out as it stood out the best but did not draw too much attention. Gold and lime green were second but when standing back they were not noticeable, and orange and red well they honestly did not fit with this shade of green even with only being a small pinstripe. Pink well I did not try and really have no interest even though it is not the first time I have heard it suggested. Today I will start to lay the stripes on the panels that are ready for it. Wish me luck..

I suppose you are right. I am glad to fear that I am not the only one that had this issue. I looked the problem parts over since my last post and again the lifting was down right to the plastic and when peeled I had the factory original primer and paint in my hand. I have had no problem with my primers (2K high solids) and same manufacturer base coats with previous projects and on other parts and sad to say I do let them dry and still have this result but I will just cut it down again and water sand then primer/sealer let dry then base, same as before. I will win but I am getting a little antsy as I do not know if this bike will be ready for my April 08 deadline when I will have to insure it as my insurance runs out on the virago then. I am overly particular and trying to cover all my bases at once which can be overwhelming at times. If worse comes to worse I will insure my Harley for a month or so until the Venture is ready and the substitute the venture in for the rest of the insurance term. I need to learn the venture so I can confidently pass my M2 exit course in October with it. People tell me to take my Virago as it will be easier but I have to sell it to pay for this years insurance, money is a little tight but I still want to play. My priorities are straight but some times I need to wheel and deal to afford the luxuries. I will find the income I need and when it comes it will come fast.

It looks to be my basecoat reacting with the factory primer under the factory paint believe it or not. I have used high fill primer with no reaction and water sanded and laid the paint no problem. An hour after still good but two hours or so later it starts to lift as the base coat flashes off. Now this is only on certain parts of the panels which is what I find weird but I attribute that to were the sanding broke through the original paint seal. I had more than one part do this and have already remedied a couple by sanding down past the factory primer and recoating with my primer and laying the paint a little heavier in attempt to hide the issue . So far success with some panels but one fairing side is bad and I know it is a bad area that will show any imperfection. Going to try to water sand and cut it down again today. I hate the idea of sanding it all down to the plastic but it might be a last resort and I am using professional automotive products not no cheap rattle can job. Again it lays well and starts to flash real nice but while drying starts to lift the old primer and paint down to the plastic.

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I am having some small issues with my paint and am preparing for my next step. I would like to ask the communities opinion on a color choice that I am about to make. For those who have watched my progression of this project from the beginning know my choice of color is synergy green like that on the Camaro SS. So flash forward to this week and the panels are sprayed and the paint is coming along with resistance but I am getting to the point of where I will clear it soon and I have been staring at these panels thinking something is missing. A line? A small stripe? I have decided to run a small stripe on the trunk in black but want to break the green with a color that will compliment it. Most palette's show blue, black, and orange as the colors to contrast against the green. I am torn but leaning to the orange as it is my favorite color but would like to know what the consensus think. A small line with the black but what color?

Thanks for the info. I suppose we are in the same vote for height and I honestly have not had any riding experience in any other than jockey position. I purchased a set of forward controls for my Harley to get my feet out front but have yet to install or try them out. I do believe that the jockey position put us at an advantage to be more nimble with the bike than the forward controls allow. I look forward to seeing more updates on your project and please feel free to give an honest opinion on my project when I post pics of the new paint. Might be a little bit as I am still in the process of completion.

I have been attempting to bring my projects appearance from the 80's into the 2000's and am in the process of paint work. I have body panels from 4 different bikes and have repaired, sanded, prepped, and primer, to the best of my ability in attempt to do a decent job. My questions goes out to those who have repainted their bikes and or performed panel repair and repaint. How many of you have found a chemical reaction between the original factory primer and today's solvents in basecoat? I have a total of four pieces of the bike that are reacting and the remaining panels are not affected. The panels are off different bikes so I can't rule out it is only from one bike. My concern is a slow lifting reaction that occurs while the paint is flashing and does not show while wet. It looks like I will have to strip the panel completely down to the plastic to remedy this concern and I realize there is not much else that I can do but I just thought I would ask if anyone else has run into this?

Thank you all who replied. This has given me something to mull over. I think I will have to ride a few times and try to decide if I want to cut a vent in my screen or just lower it to where I feel the wind but honestly I think I am going to let my passenger decide as it sounds like she will be taking most of the brunt of the wind. I will post what happens if anything once a decision is made.

Chaharly, might I ask how tall you are? I myself am 6'2" and have to agree even with my footrests set to the best position I too feel a little crammed. I have sat on a few bikes and always felt that way so I thought it to be normal for me. The only bike so far that I have not felt that way on is the Triumph Rocket III which is a large bike. How did the second gen you had fit you? I am only curious as I honestly cannot remember how the 2013 xvz felt the last time I sat on one at the dealer.

Very smart thinking, use the trailers as garages and not have to pay property taxes on the out buildings. I love it, very nice carpeted trailer. Maybe I will have to find one to store my bikes. I like how it was mentioned the carpet you used was bought a few years before. It reminded me of my last garage I built, I had the form lumber, insulation, doors, windows, roofing, rolls of aluminum for fascia, lighting, heaters, wiring and breaker box long before I decided to build it. All stuff I collected and the beauty was that after making use of it I no longer had to store it. Hey it even brought the build cost down drastically. Yup I am a recovering pack rat and I had or still have a problem. My newest addiction is bikes.

I am not sure if that was Kev being nice or just poking those of us who know a real winter to make us jealous but I gotta admit it worked on me. Now I just need to figure out how to afford a trip down his way.

I personally like the post Eck, I cannot say much as I am very new but I have come across many riders who overestimate their riding abilities and like to blame road conditions. I personally am enjoying the hazards and trying to use them to teach myself to ride more cautiously, and to prepare for the unknown. If I choose to ride a great distance to somewhere I have not been before I like to think that if the road conditions are sub par I will have some practice to better prepare me for the unknown. People have to learn to not be so short sighted and look well ahead. Maybe I am only fooling myself but I do know riders who not not ride confidently in the rain and some who just give no consideration to weather and road conditions. Hey we all see it in the cars accidents around us, blame road conditions rather than admit speeding or lack of ability to control. No difference in any vehicle on the road. People do not like to take responsibility for their actions, they do stupid things and lay blame elsewhere. They call it an accident so the guilty do not have to feel bad. I only hope I do not become a hazard to myself or another and as a beginner am trying my best to be educated and aware. Avoiding bad habits is not an easy thing to do. I hope and pray I will be able to ride as long in my life as many of you on this forum have. This forum is like family to each other, be safe and aware.

It's interesting to read the recommendations people make out here and the difference in what the factory service manuals read. I suppose lots of it has to do with skill set, abilities and prior experience. I always find it a good read.

I personally know 83-85 are adjustable. It even shows it in the owners manual.

My slab? lol.. Honestly 7.5"with 3/8" double rebar and 6" square mesh. I had to have it inspected before pouring the concrete and the inspector said it was overkill. I made the floors so thick so I can drill and anchor automotive lifts without the fear of cracking the floating slab. No footings, just a slab poured with perimeter trenches cut out and Gran "A" compacted in the center. Local code calls for 4" thick no bar or mesh required but I have seen so many crack even when cut I did not want to take a chance so I spent for the extra material. I am happy I did it this way and poured the concrete with a contractor "friend" that I made and had one of his employees hand finish it. Condor is right, when the truck shows up it does not take long to pour, level, and float the concrete. The hand finish takes the longest.