dna9656

Inner race? You mean like the INNER part of a bearing or do you mean a inner bearing? I ordered the collar through amazon $20.31 out the door and shipped from Motorcycle Parts Network.

Where do you get the inner race? The inner race is usually the inner part of a bearing. With cars you can order an inner race but usually the inner race is integral with the bearing assembly. I'm confused. I ordered this from EBay: Pivot Works Rear Wheel and Seal Kit For 1983 Yamaha XVZ 12 I has both bearings listed by yamaha. Yamaha does not show an "inner race"...hence my confusion.

Done; the bearings are bad.

Ok the fork is tight it all directions. HOWEVER Lifting the rear wheel off the lift platform and I found it wiggles....!!!!!!!!!!! BAD BEARINGS Ebay; on Ebay there is a kit, both bearings, seals and the o ring for 50.00 free shipping. It's mine! I have 2 spare rear wheels, one with a really bald tire and the other has an Elite 2 tire on it that looks OK... I will clean it up and look it over. if it's worth the time I will install is and see how it is.

SO ARE the '84s prone to frame cracks? I found posts mentioning the '83s were/are.... My bike is titled as a '83 but you won't find the XVZ12DKC2 in the '83 parts catalog, it's in the '84 catalog. I looked up the '83, '84 and '85 part numbers for the frame, they are all the same......it changes in '86 most likely because of the 1300 CC engine and increased weight(s). The VIN is JYA47T004DA000237 with a build date of 10/83. I suppose this could be a "1984" model as we (in the US) build cars in the year proceeding the calendar year for which vehicles are identified; but never the less the title says '83 and the build date is 10/83. Neil has mentioned my bike is a '83.5; I guess it's sort of a transitional model. So maybe some one has some "SECRET" Yamaha document that talks about a frame spec. change for the first 3 years....

Pete; SO what your saying is a 35-40 to MPH impact with a small Nissan truck is NOT sufficient to adjust the caster? I offer the photo below in dispute of that allegation. [ATTACH=CONFIG]97987[/ATTACH]

If you need a switch let me know,I have a spare.

Looks like Kevin has hooked you up! He is a cornucopia of information! "IIRC"! very Funny Kevin! Kevin has great info resources and a lot of experience on these bikes. Van; if Kevin doesn't have the answer to a question on these bikes it's a rarity indeed! Above in you're quote you mention "cheap, foam grips" Where did you find ANYTHING for a motorcycle that was CHEAP? the thing about those foam grips (for me anyway) is that they isolate what little vibration in the bars. For me a set with gel filled grips would be pretty neat but I haven't come across any in my travels but them I don't even know if there is such a thing.

I have a set would you like to have them? They are THIN, have a pattern on them, black neoprene. I will send pics when i locate them... I think they are on the parts bike.

The handle bars start to shake violently when taking both (to get them out of the cold or to rest my arms) hands off. What I have read says that motorcycles use positive caster (or rake and trail) to make steering easier. Would a negative caster be caused by worn/out of adjustment triple tree bearings?

Well I try to use the "OFFICIAL' designations to avoid confusion; as you said people name things differently; I try to create a page of thought where everyone gets as close to the same idea(s) as is possible. We all think a little differently of course and that's OK; just think how boring it would be if we all thought the same way....

Von; I go to a site where they sell parts and have Yamaha's parts catalog. Boats.net - New and Used Boats for Sale, Outboard Boat Motors, and Discount Outboard Boat Parts is one. Yamaha's systems are not exactly clear on what is included. For example you won't find the thing you are looking for in a particular chapter; take a throttle cable for example. It's not under the carb. it's under the handle bar.....but that's Nos. 1 and 2 cables; 3 and 4 would be under the carburetor....this is just an example, I may have this actual scenario backwards or all wrong to start with but this is the kine of thinking that's being used in the layout of the parts catalog. It doesn't necessarily follow the line YOU THINK it might....anyway I find the expanded drawing in the parts catalog, get the proper name and part number and do my internet searches armed with that info. Good luck!

That is correct. I have powder coated LOTS of stuff, alum, steel, exotic metals, most any thing can be power coated it it can stand the heat, the minimum is around 230F I believe but the shop I worked in kept the over at 425. I would be interested in a set...

The front lower.... that ABS thing in front of the rider's shin....will check stuff this weekend. Thanks! I read the links given to the speedo issue; Some VERY GOOD ideas there, I do have a story to relate that might be pertinent ... When in SF. CA. my speedo in my '83 S-10 Blazer acted up. the cable would wrap up and suddenly un-wrap, it made the horrible dry speedo head noise too. I went to a speedo shop and got a ridiculous quote to fix it (they were going to pull the cable, grease the speedo through the transmission end of the cable and call it good) something like $210.00. While waiting in the shop I noticed a can of red grease, (it looked a whole lot like the grease I used on aircraft flight control actuators in the USAF) so I asked about it, they called it cable lube or grease. So; I didn't know there was such a specific lube for that application, I thought trans fluid made it's way up there for the cable; maybe some graphite for the head; So anyway it was a synthetic grease, they said it stays on the lighter side of thickness when cold so the cable will spin and it displaces any water (condensate or from driving through water) that would freeze in the colder months. OK all well and good. So I asked where I could get a can and I got the expected answer, "Oh; just bring it here and we'll lube it for you.", yeah at $210.00. for 1/2's work and 50 cents worth of grease. Yep I'm gonna do that. Yamaha says use a synthetic moly (I believe) in the cable housing, The wise old men here (I'm 58 so I think I can say that without being disrespectful) seem to agree on the synthetic moly grease on this application as well and I'm sure that's an experienced based opinion and based on the factory specs. Thanks to you all!

Why red? Who makes red?

Pete; Synthetic grease? Doug

I got some very scary noises coming from my bike. Today while riding home it was so scary I thought the bike was falling apart... Symptoms: I got the water leak at the elbow, I filled the bottle but could the noise be cavitation? Just to make sure how should the drain/on/off valve be positioned? I have anti freeze dripping out of the over flow yet the bottle is FULL to the top..... It sounds like the side and or center stand is flopping around but the thud I feel in the seat of my pants isn't in time with bumps on the road.... Now I got intermittent scraping noises like a brake (only it happens when I'm NOT applying the brakes at either end) pad is scrapping the rotor, I replaced them last year with cheapies in hope I would be upgrading to R-1 brakes but that hasn't happened yet. Could the pads be sloppy in the caliper? I suppose.... I replaced the front wheel bearings with "Balls are Best" sealed bearings, I should not have had to lube them should I? The dealer installed them as I couldn't (was too scared to hit the bearings THAT hard and couldn't get a purchase on the the race(s) anyway. I got the bike up on the center stand (on the side of the road) and spun the front wheel, it didn't make a sound; I didn't feel any indication of grinding bearings while turning the wheel. I also got a buzzing from the old speedo cable, I put the new (new cable and sheath pre-lubed) one on, could the end of the cable not fit correctly cause these bumps I feel? I will take it out and see how the ends look.... Feeling like the rear floor (not spring loaded in any position) boards (or side/center stand) are bouncing with the road but again the sound/feeling through the seat/handlebars isn't in time with the road... Could the forks be bottoming out? How about the rear shock/spring assembly? I haven't got it up on the lift yet but I will be checking for tightness of fasteners though all are torqued to specs. except the muffler clamps. Can this be drive line related? I'll be removing the rear wheel and checking the lube situation with the drive shaft at the wheel, the other end has that universal, I will check it for tightness and serviceability. The front right lower is a little loose as the lower pokie that fits into the hole on the main fairing has broken again. I have a bungee cord on it but it still doesn't keep it from being a little loose. This all started Saturday on the way home from getting the seat repaired, I know the bike wasn't tampered with as I was with it at all times.

Here are the pics you requested. yes i have been to the Kool Glo site, it's been abandoned I believe.

When I got the '85 (parts bike) home I found a KoolGlo "Black Jack" controller connected to a LED light bar located on the Travel (trunk) Bag of the bike. SOME wires leading from the controller went to the LED bar, while most wires had been disconnected. I went on the Internet looking for the "KoolGlo" company site hoping I could find a diagram or could contact them. Apparently they are now out of business even though (at the time) their website was still up. Does anyone have information showing the pin out or diagram of how this thing is connected? There is a alphanumeric on the case : A84461. Any help would be appreciated! UPDATE, the site is still up but I think it's been abandoned.

When composing a new thread I give it a title, a list of threads containing words in the title appear under the new thread. To learn if previous threads have my answer I go to each thread in the list, except when I hit the back button I have to enter my subject again, it's a pain. Is there a way to put the list in a pop up or some thing?

My 84 has a coolant leak, I think I have traced it down to the elbow; items 18 and 19 (O-Rings) on the drawing for a '84 XVZ12DKC2. About a year ago(?) I found the O-rings on the 'net during a "well if I can find these o rings they would be good to have on hand" search; so I have them on hand. I'm making this post to ask if there is anything I should look for while I am replacing the rings. I thought I would use some "Mark One lube (spit) or Vaseline to ease the o rings into place when performing the install. Is there anything else I should pay attention to or look for? I have been using a green anti freeze, I suppose it has been slow-leaking for a while as while I was looking around I found the over flow bottle was empty but the block still had enough anti freeze to do the job. I never had a over heat condition. I plan on getting some distilled water and mixing the stuff my self. Is the green stuff the best or is there another color that's more gooder?

It probably migrated to the chain saw....

So far as I know they are all acrylic, using a welding product may work I donno, I would call Slip stream and talk to the owner; I believe his name is Bob but in any case he will give you a good education on M/C windshields and the best materials to use. I'm sure he can address your question to your satisfaction.

Thanks! I appreciate the info, my bike is a 84 but the travel bag (trunk) is off the 85 parts bike because it's twice as big! I forget about it being from the '85... In the parts break-down it looks like the reflector is glued on the back, anyone ever dealt with getting it off? I wonder about breaking it while trying to remove it in one piece...it's still available for $351.?? at boats or partzilla, the lowest price on the internet.

Has anyone put LEDs behind the Trunk reflector on 85 model year XVZ 12?