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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/27/2021 in all areas

  1. Watching Barret Jackson Live and this morning they are running a bunch of restored Honda Mini-Bikes. $5000 seems to be th low bid and I'm lissening to one going for $21,000. This is insane. If youu can make it to their website you need to see this. If not take a look at the results section. This is in Stockdale AZ. The bike are really nice and restored, but they are selling for more than a lot of hot rod customs...
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  2. Bratman, I've never had to change the seal, but here is what it looks like. Appears the Tenere' Youtube procedure would work.
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  3. everything I save turns into junk and everything I ever tossed became valuable......Go figure
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  4. Definitely those are metric numbers but you have the decimal in the wrong place. I grabbed the above values from my Clymer manual. Divide the your numbers by 25.4 and you will get the imperial equivalents.
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  5. Small update on the leak: since torqueing the bolts to spec, no more oil weeping from the head gaskets at all. I'll make sure to check head bolt torque each time I do shims now since it is so easy to do through the camshaft caps. Now I am just hoping that I don't develop any leaks from the valve cover gasket over time.😒
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  6. I can confirm, .004 to .006 for intake and .006 to .006 for exhaust, as per my manual.
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  7. If I remember correctly intake clearance is .004-.006 and exhaust is .006-.008. Set them toward the higher limits as clearance shrinks with wear.
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  8. .008 is a pretty large shim and at the top of the tolerance for the exhaust if I remember right. You will want to get a feeler gauge that goes down to at least .0015" and check with that, make sure the timing is in the right position to get proper measurements.
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  9. Little update, Turns out that the head bolts can be tightened with the cams in place. Figured this out AFTER pulling the rear cams🙄... Anyhow, pull the rubber plugs on top of the cam caps and then turn the engine slowly until the through holes in the cam shafts line up with the holes in the caps. At this point, you can pass a long 8mm Allen key bit through the hole and start torquing. You'll only be able to do the front or rear cam at a time, so to tighten evenly you should have to turn the engine over a few times by hand. I would say most of the bolts took about 1/4 turn before clicking over but at least 4 took over a half turn after unsticking a bit, I was worried they may be stripped but they did click eventually! Double checked all the bolts again and they all clicked at the proper torque now. Had some fun resetting the timing with all the valve springs fighting me(don't pull cams if you can help it!) But one I figured out the trick it wasn't too bad. Now the next step is to adjust pretty much ALL of my valve shims, I think previous owner set the tighter I stead of looser thinking it would be better. One shim was upside down so I am not thinking it was factory. Below are the measurements found.
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  10. Update on the recall: I got a response from Yamaha Canada confirming the recall but the rep said that the cutoff time was 2017. And even then, being a US bike it would have had to be done by a US dealer. So, I guess I get to learn how to pull cams to access the bolts. Ordered my new valve cover gaskets ahead of time, and going to measure valve shim clearances while I'm at it. If I need to order a kit, they are 25mm shims right?
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  11. Sad news on 3/19/2021 the blond beauty has been wrecked. Left turn got me in a intersection in downtown Joplin, missouri. Head on with a full size truck. I slow down watching him . He was sitting still till I got to intersection then he pulled out in front of me. Me and Nana are still sore from the crash. Front tire almost touching radiator. Will post the picture of it . ASAP THANK YOU GUYS for the help with her she was a beautiful bike. Oh yeah was getting 33.7 MPG that day. Lmao @saddlebum @cowpuc @Pasta Burner @Squidley
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