Jump to content


Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BlueChips84

  1. Always enjoy his videos, very well done. This one really had me eyeing a scout as a smaller, lighter move from my RSTD. Only down side is that the closest Indian dealers to Ottawa are in Toronto and Montreal...
  2. Correct, it gets trapped between the backside(top) and the valve seat in the head, holding it open. Should I try and do a video or pictures of the process when my valve shims arrive?
  3. I have seen this trick mentioned briefly when doing some researched but the replies were mostly along the lines of it being sketchy or difficult. In fact it works very well and I have used this trick on both my FJ600 and now my RSTD. Use a good thick ziptie and there is no risk of it getting cut by the valve. The method I use is this: 1) Bend a heavy(thick) zip tie to 90 degrees by pinching it with pliers, make sure that the short leg is 1-3/4" long to reach the valve. 2) Turn the engine over until the cams are pushing down the valves and insert the zip tie with the stem
  4. Little update, Turns out that the head bolts can be tightened with the cams in place. Figured this out AFTER pulling the rear cams🙄... Anyhow, pull the rubber plugs on top of the cam caps and then turn the engine slowly until the through holes in the cam shafts line up with the holes in the caps. At this point, you can pass a long 8mm Allen key bit through the hole and start torquing. You'll only be able to do the front or rear cam at a time, so to tighten evenly you should have to turn the engine over a few times by hand. I would say most of the bolts took about 1/4 turn be
  5. Already had both of those out, still had the chain taught but figured it out. probably caused the initial problem though before I removed the rearmost one.
  6. Never mind, I figured it out! Combination of the valve springs pushing the cam shafts in opposite directions and the loosened chain folding over and binding down in the crank case. Backed if off a bit while taking out the slack and it moved freely after that. Something to be mindful of for anyone playing with the camshafts in the future. Cheers, Aric
  7. Okay, bit of a conundrum here... I'm working on re torquing my my head bolts on my 2007 RSTD as there was an expired recall on this model year and I have been getting oil weeping from the head gasket but no coolant mixing. Turns out there are bolt clearance holes in the cams to tighten the heads so removal was unnecessary but nowhere in the manual or online mentio ed that... Anyhow, I had the cam chain tensioner out(the one in the middle of the engine on the front bank) and this gave me enough slack to lift the chain with my finger but as soon as I let it go, the chain
  8. Oh, I'll be leaning on you guys if I get in to trouble, that's for sure. I find the quickest way to learn is to get in a bit over your head from time to time.
  9. I already have the gaskets ordered and will see what shims need replacing if any before making a move for the kit. May be able to make a deal with a mechanic down the road from me, have exchanged shims before. As for the tool, I'll take a look at the design and see if I can just machine one at work. I have lots of time since there are no students around at the university... anyone have a drawing?😉
  10. Sadly, I am not talking about the valve cover bolts. This one particular year has a recall for head bolt torque being too low. Unfortunately it expired in 2017, so now it time for brain surgery on her. Worst part will be pulling the cams to get to the bolts and then re timing everything. So far, no other issues other than some oil weeping from the head gaskets. No oil in coolant or vise versa, although I will drain and replace both over the winter. Only had the bike a few months, love the power and comfort. Was thinking of selling it after trying out the cruiser thing
  11. Now that the weather is looking pretty consistently cold, I have the RSTD jacked up to start work on torqueing the head bolts. Hopefully this stops my oil leak. On the plus side, I'm hoping to get my 9yo son involved to get some father son time in!
  12. Update on the recall: I got a response from Yamaha Canada confirming the recall but the rep said that the cutoff time was 2017. And even then, being a US bike it would have had to be done by a US dealer. So, I guess I get to learn how to pull cams to access the bolts. Ordered my new valve cover gaskets ahead of time, and going to measure valve shim clearances while I'm at it. If I need to order a kit, they are 25mm shims right?
  13. Checked my VIN, came back as being covered by the recall. Big BUT though... I'm in Canada and the bike is apparently a US bike(explains the odo being in miles🙄) so the vin does not come up in the Yamaha Canada database, so dealer is unsure if work is covered. Sent an email to Yamaha Canada to see if the work can be covered here. Waiting on a response but not holding my breath on a 13 year old bike.
  14. Thanks for the info, I will inquire next time I am by the dealer, maybe tomorrow. Is there a way to look up recalls or service bulletins on these bikes?
  15. My first thought would be a stuck float in a couple of the carbs. Don't turn over the engine with the plugs it or it may hydro lock and cause damage! Need to turn off the peacock, pull the plugs and turn it over to get the gas out of the cylinders, then start to get at the carbs. Are you sure the gas was flowing out of the exhaust or just running along it? If it was coming out the exhaust, it may indicate some valve clearance issues as well, but that's just a guess.
  16. Okay, so I pulled the covers, cleaned everything up and then went for a test ride, about 8km. Pulled the covers and found oil weeping from the head gaskets at the front left cylinder corner and rear right cylinder, also at the corner. I can't really tell if it is leaking further inside the block on the other corners but it does not seem to be so far. So, I'm thinking(praying) that it is just improperly torqued head bolts as there is no evidence of coolant leaking so far. Going to pull the covers, then cams and torque the bolts once the bike is parked for the season. Might as well c
  17. I can verify that it is definitely not fuel or coolant. I'm planning to pull the covers again, give it a good clean to get the dirt and oil residue off and then run it up and down the road to see if I can spot the source. There is too much oil and dirt that has crept up the surface of the engine to see clearly. I'll have to pick up some engine cleaner and tackle it after hunting season next week.
  18. Well, I was going to sell my bike but two things stopped me: 1) My wife just shook her head and say keep it because I like it so much and, 2) I started to notice an oil leak under the bike about a month after I bought it. Can't sell it like that! So, she is here to stay and I'll ride the heck out of her but I want to fix this leak before it gets worse or is hinting at another issue. Bike has 54000 miles on it. I removed the side covers(fake fins) on both sides of the engine and tried to track down the source of the leaks. From first glance, it seems to be leaking
  19. For the price of new plugs and air filters, I would just change them anyhow to set a baseline. Definitely drop the oil some as well. Also make sure that all of the intake boots from the air box are seated properly, it is easy to get one pinched up. I have the same bike, a 2007 RSTD and it hauls butt with a twist of the throttle.
  20. I'm going to try linking from my image host site, Imgur and see if that works. My daughter told we we had to call her Marshmallow, seeing as how my other bike is named Fudge (model is a '90 FJ600). So I present Miss Marshmallow in all her glory. Got her and a parts bike together Both were non running but since fixed and in various pieces. After some new fluid, tires and seals, brake rebuilds and scavenging a few parts, Ms. Marshmallow is now fully dressed and ready for a safety. She just needs a few new rubber grommets for mibor cosmetic fixes and to touch up the soldering on the CLASS sys
  21. I believe most fuel containers are made of HDPE. Check the bottom for the recycling symbol on a gas can and then match that on your back up bottle. Would a small 5L /1.5gal fuel can not work? At least that way you could fuel it up anywhere without grief and it should vent properly too. Gas cans are designed to take a pretty good impact without damage or bursting, can't say the same for a bleach container.
  22. Thanks for all the help guys! I managed to get things going after I bought a large syringe at PA that is meant for measuring two stroke oil. I removed the hose from the reservoir and clamped the hose around the syringe nipple and pressurised the system that way. Eventually it took prime and was pumping properly, expelling 30yo chocolate milk looking fluid. Amazingly everything cleaned up well and was clean I sure afterwards. It also appears that if you bleed the top point first before the front caliper, the fluid will run down the line and fill the front caliper before coming out the b
  23. I was actually doing it in the reverse order which likely does not help but I did not think it would cause an air lock or loss of pumping. I will try and stop by the local Princess Auto and grab a vacuum pump and/or a reverse bleed kit, hopefully that will help. If nothing else it will make like easier as the wife is too busy with the three kids to help on the bike.
  24. That is the point I am attempting to bleed now. The rear caliper has fluid in it but when I went to bleed the high point by the handlebars it is no longer pumping. Tried for an hour. I topped the reservoir up with fluid and cracked the top bleed nipple overnight to see if maybe gravity will help things prime. Will try it again tonight.
  25. For easier access, I pulled the revoir out and removed the cal and diaphragm to fill more easily, so not that. I can see how it would happen though.
  • Create New...