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Did you check/replace the wires for corrosion, spark plug caps?

My son has a similar 3 burner outdoor stove and he loves it. He uses at home as well as car camping trips. His only beef is that its a tad heavy for canoe and back packing trips

Are you bench synced? Did you set all the idle mix screws to the same start point? Did you ceck to make sure all of the idle mix screw parts are there and installed in the correct order? Did you set the fuel level in the bowls? I would also hghly recommend relocating the CDI to the top of the air box when you replace the coils. It will be much cooler and more protedcted from the elements there. I would also recommend updating the fuse block. Keep in mind also, these bikes will not run right with air box open. They will idle, kind of, but bog and choke with any throttle. Hanging throttle, stuttering/bogging on wind up, back fire on decel are all indicators of the carbs being out of sync. Of course they can also indicate other problems, but the sync is the most likely culprit.

Final update: Finally got back up to Phoenix where the RSV is. Went over this morning, and put the ignition switch back in. She fired right up! So the problem was the two contacts in the main switch that tell the igniter to work. The solder joints had broken internally. A quick jolt of a hot soldering gun took care of problem. I'm still getting overflow out of one carb on left side. Only at idle and only when first run....after I turn off choke and she idles for a few minutes. Will start to stumble then overflow will appear on ground. Once she warms up, the problem doesn't happen. Can ride all day without an issue. Guess it's time to go back through carbs. They sure looked clean when I went through them a few months ago. I should probably check tank for corrosion and fuel lines for issues...although I did that a few months ago. The gas was clean in the jar. Always something!!!

Thanks, Ron. Hopefully I won't need it. UPDATE: Again, the switch fought me every which way. Took an electric jack hammer(kidding) and a drill to get the other 2 screws out, to get to the switch assembly. Finally got it apart. The contact were clean. On both sides! Contact were nice and shiny. Not bad for 16 years. Meter time. Wait a minute... No continuity between 2 contacts and their wire ends! Brought out the large soldering gun. Zapped them both. Continuity! Put switch back together. There now is continuity between the 2 little wires that I didn't have before. The blue/yellow and the blue/black now are bridged electrically when key is on. (Thanks, Ben for wire education. Interesting how much I've forgotten!) SO...my educated guess is...the switch will now work. Unfortunately, I won't be back in Phoenix for a couple of weeks to see if that's the cure. Thank you to everyone with ideas. The forum works...again!! (and of course, I forgot to take pictures)

If the side stand switch or the clutch switch were faulty you would not be able to crank the engine over and since you can I would assume they are OK. I do not have a lot of second gen experience but I am good with electrical regardless so studying the following schematics. I will try to help best I can. In my experience as a mechanic schematics are your best friend regardless of the vehicle. DO THE FOLLOWING CHECKS WITH ALL CONNECTORS DISCONNECTED AT THE IGNITER UNIT check the connectors at your igniter unit to be sure the contacts are all clean and secure. If not clean and repair (particularly look for greenish powdery looking stuff known as terminal fretting ) Looking at the 6 pin connector from the igniter unit test the black wire for proper ground connection With ignition switch on check for GROUND at the blue/black on the 8 pin connector. (if no ground check Ignition switch see test #9, neutral switch and and clutch switch) Check the Black/white wire at 4 pin connector for ground ( if no ground check the the emergency fall over sensor switch ) Check the red/black wire going to the coils (this should have 12VOLTS with key on and stop switch in run position) Check the sky blue wire at the at the 8 pin connector 1st with bike in neutral and then with bike in gear. In one position this wire should show good ground and in the other position No ground. (if no ground check Ignition switch see test #9, neutral switch and and clutch switch) Connect an ohmmeter between the yellow wire and blue wire at the 8 pin connector and roll the throttle. Resistance should vary up and down as you roll the throttle back and forth. You can check manual for exact spec range to be more precise if needed. Connect an Ohmmeter between the black/blue and the white/red wires on the 8 pin connector. These are the two wires going to your pickup coil and should read 189 to 231 ohms. Disconnect connectors at ignition switch connect ohmmeter between blue/yellow and blue/black should show closed circuit with switch on and open circuit with switch off. If any of the above tests fail back track the faulty circuit until you find the cause. I start by tracing back to the next connector until I find at which connector the issue begins and then check the wiring between the connector that test out good and the one that test out bad. this is a quick way to isolate were the issue exists rather than randomly jumping all over the board hoping to get get lucky. https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf