86Royale Posted September 7, 2008 Share #1 Posted September 7, 2008 I've done my reading on the CLASS repairs, and after hitting one helluva bump in a construction zone a couple weeks ago, it appears I'm going to have to use the techniques, but I have a couple questions. First, until the bump, it was working great, no E1 or E4 codes. After the bump, an E1 that can be corrected with the plug technique. However, after riding for a while, and the associated vibrations, sometimes it'll keep working, sometimes not. I read about heating up the contacts with a solder gun? Which contacts, how do you get them out of the plug, if necessary? Do I have to go in to resolder any cracks if the plug technique is working to make it work? Thanks guys, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill p Posted September 7, 2008 Share #2 Posted September 7, 2008 The fix worked on my 88 VR. My control box was removed as described, then taken apart as instructed . The repair of the solder joints of the pins, to the circuit board were cracked. I examined the circuit board with a magnifing glass and could find no cracks. Reassembled the whole mess and WALLA it worked . I hope my amature soldering holds up. My sincere THANKS to those who have fixed these problems before it happend to my bike . This save us loads of cash in buying new or used parts, when something can be fixed this easy. THANKS!!!! bill p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarges46 Posted September 7, 2008 Share #3 Posted September 7, 2008 I had to redo mine as I didnt do all the pins on the first try. I didnt bother to look with a magnafiying glass...just eye-balled it. Wrongo...had to take it apart again and this time I did every single pin and reassembled...never had the problem again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dexx Posted September 7, 2008 Share #4 Posted September 7, 2008 I took mine to a guy I work with who does electronics repair on the side. He charged me twenty bucks and I bought him lunch after I re-installed it and tested it. In my opinion, a very small price to pay to take away the anxiety cuased by my lack of experience with solder and circuit boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted September 7, 2008 Share #5 Posted September 7, 2008 Gee, Dexx, I would have done it for free for you, having been an electronics tech for over 35 years. But then again, you would have burned close to that in gas coming over and back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skid Posted September 7, 2008 Share #6 Posted September 7, 2008 I had to re-do all solder joints on the circuit board, it just wasn't the seven joints mentioned inthe thread...... Works like a charm now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igya Posted September 7, 2008 Share #7 Posted September 7, 2008 I've done my reading on the CLASS repairs, and after hitting one helluva bump in a construction zone a couple weeks ago, it appears I'm going to have to use the techniques, but I have a couple questions. First, until the bump, it was working great, no E1 or E4 codes. After the bump, an E1 that can be corrected with the plug technique. However, after riding for a while, and the associated vibrations, sometimes it'll keep working, sometimes not. I read about heating up the contacts with a solder gun? Which contacts, how do you get them out of the plug, if necessary? Do I have to go in to resolder any cracks if the plug technique is working to make it work? Thanks guys, Joe I have the same problem and I know I'll have to resolder the connections when it's too cold to ride. However, to get me by until then, I just took a nylon tie and cinched it around the plug and the closest fairing component. Temporary fer sur, but it has worked ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Myers Posted September 7, 2008 Share #8 Posted September 7, 2008 How do the symptoms of this problem show up? If I let the bike sit for a few days, on the center stand, before I drop it to the side stand I always look at the air in the rear shock, usually it is within 2 or 3psi of what I want, never run air in the front since installing progressive springs. Sometimes, if I need to add air I have to push the manual button several times before it'll work. Is that indicative of this solder problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86Royale Posted September 7, 2008 Author Share #9 Posted September 7, 2008 I'm not sure if that would be one of the symptoms. With mine it's a matter of vibration that will cause an E1 error. Simply unplugging and plugging the unit works to fix it, it just may need to be done several times each day, usually I check it at gas stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skid Posted September 7, 2008 Share #10 Posted September 7, 2008 I'm not sure if that would be one of the symptoms. With mine it's a matter of vibration that will cause an E1 error. Simply unplugging and plugging the unit works to fix it, it just may need to be done several times each day, usually I check it at gas stop. The plug is pretty good size with alot of weight pulling down on the unit. This is what causes the joints to go bad after several years of bouncing and vibrations. These are 23 year old scoots now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Texas Winds Posted September 8, 2008 Share #11 Posted September 8, 2008 Has anyone had a problem with the plug that plugs in to the class unit I did the resolder thing and still have enterming with the class unit does anyone know how to tight the plug that plugs into the class unit:bang head: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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