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07 RSV batt replaced -- voltmeter revelations


Guest DREBBIN

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Guest DREBBIN

Ya'll may recall my brand new 07 RSV was not holding a charge. I got to the dealer on SAT where they installed a new batt -- and I followed the sageful advice of this forum -- had a Kury voltmeter installed. Here are the results:

 

SAT 10 FEB

- Rode from dealer to home, 25 miles

- Voltmeter had 1 solid green light

- No Heated gear, no passing lamps

- Hooked up batt tender -- went to 80% immediately

- Took 2.5 hrs to go to 100%

 

SUN 11 FEB

- Rode 50 miles

- With Heated jacket & gloves

- No passing lamps

- 1 Solid green light on voltmeter

- STOPPED & FUELED

- Turned on Passing lamps & ran heated gear

- Voltmeter went into FLASHING green then into AMBER

- Turned off heated gear

- Voltmeter went back to 1 solid green

- Turned on hi beam (passing lamps on too)

- Voltmeter maintained 1 solid green

- Turned off lamps & hi beam

- Turned heated gear back on

- Voltmeter stayed solid green for last 47 miles

 

Hooled up to battery tender -- went solid green in just under 20 minutes

 

So....darn it....it's true you cannot run jacket, gloves & passing lamps.

 

Thnx to all who helped me. So I can add one more thing to what I miss about the Gold Wing -- power. DREBBIN

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Guest silvertramp

YEP:detective: By the way, all I've ever seen is 1 green light, A whole bunch of yellow ones tho. You may be able to turn on more acc. the higher the RPM. I have extra running lights, plus passing lights--going to LEDs solved my problem. Extra brake lights really threw the system into disarray!!

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Drebbin,

 

Where did you connect the voltmeter? I put one in over the weekend connecting the positive line to the power going to the passing lights and the negative going to a ground point on the stereo chassis inside the fairing.

 

I am not able to get more than 2 red/1 yellow out of it (sitting on a CarbonOne frame lift adapter - very nice btw), even with the engine running. Put a battery tender on it and made sure the battery was at full, and still only got 2 red/ 1 yellow.

 

And ideas?

 

Jeff

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Try measuring the voltage at the battery. Measure right on the terminal/post of the battery and then on the crimp on the heavy lead leading from the battery. If you get a different reading I would say there's some corrosion on the leads. That would explain the .5 voltage drop your showing.

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So, does this mean, your original battery in the new bike was No Good ??

And, thats what caused all the trouble. Hmmm Interesting.

 

Question: to anybody, is there an ElectriX, Replacement Stator for the 2nd Gens ?? If so, would this help with the current Draw problem. ??

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Guest DREBBIN
So, does this mean, your original battery in the new bike was No Good ??

And, thats what caused all the trouble. Hmmm Interesting.

 

Question: to anybody, is there an ElectriX, Replacement Stator for the 2nd Gens ?? If so, would this help with the current Draw problem. ??

 

From what we cld tell, yes, the battery installed at purchase had a bad cell. Have not had it on the road in the last 9 days due to FRIGGIN ice & SNOW but it is clearing up nucely now -- expect to get in 200 on Sat and will advise of further testing.

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I'm not sure where and or in what thread, but I do recall that someone mentioned the addition of a digital voltmeter to their VR. A site was included. I tried the site and attempted to purchase one of these voltmeters. When I hit the purchase key I got booted out. Could I get a recheck from someone on this site, so that I might try it again. I' thinking that the site was down. Thanks for the help.

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