Guest DREBBIN Posted February 4, 2007 Share #1 Posted February 4, 2007 You may recall my posts eralier this week regarding my battery on my RSV going dead after only a 160 mile ride, using heated gear & passing lamps. I decided to run 2 tests this weekend -- looks to me like my new RSV is not charging the batt -- TEST ONE - SAT 3 FEB (fully charged batt) TEMP = 30 degrees DISTANCE = 100 miles AVG SPEED = 50mph PASSING LAMPS = YES GERBING GEAR = YES, Jacket & gloves (@50%) Upon return I hooked up the battery tender -- it took 5.5 hrs to get to solid green light, full charge. (( Jacket = 6.4 amps, 77 watts; Gloves = 2.2 amps, 27 watts)) TEST TWO - SUN 4 FEB (fully charged batt) TEMP = 30 degrees DISTANCE = 100 miles AVG SPEED = 52 mph PASSING LAMPS = YES GERBING GEAR = None Upon return I hooked up the battery tender -- it went to flashing green in 30 seconds (80% charge) -- it took 2.5 hrs to get to solid green light, full charge. For certain, there is a bigger drain using heated gear. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY -- this system is not charging the battery. This is my 6th bike and with the exception of the evil HD from hell, none of them came back in the garage from a ride with an un-charged battery. So, I guess it's time to have the dealer put in that new battery? Your opinions appreciated, DREBBIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarges46 Posted February 4, 2007 Share #2 Posted February 4, 2007 Jeees...I feel bad for your luck! Brandy new bike and all.... Well I guess it should go back to the dealer and get a new one. Perhaps have them check to make sure everything in that area are up to snuff. Really, I dont think this is the bikes fault...it may have happened in the assembly of the bike...bad things have happened with inexperienced "kids" putting the bikes together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BigDog Posted February 4, 2007 Share #3 Posted February 4, 2007 You did the tests now make the dealer do his job. New battery and diagnose the charging system. You may want to skip the mention of the Gerbings. The dealer may claim that the Gerbings caused the battery to run down. Ya cant trust them types too much. My Yausa battery is coming up on 4 years and my Tender goes to full green in about 1 minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vance Posted February 5, 2007 Share #4 Posted February 5, 2007 You ought to put a voltmeter across your battery with the engine running and see if your alternator is charging the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreezyRider Posted February 5, 2007 Share #5 Posted February 5, 2007 You either need to test the stator output yourself (not difficult to do) or get your dealer to do it and let you see the results as it is running. I really don't think it's your battery. Since the battery does charge up with your charger, it should do the same with a properly functioning charging system on the bike. I had some problems with my batt running down while riding. I'll spare you the troubleshooting details I went through, but I finally found that the connection at the voltage regulator wasn't making good contact. The Voltage Reg is at the lower front of the engine, under the radiator. You access it by removing the lower right fairing. I filled the connector with dielectric grease and the problem was solved. Now charges great. However, since it ran clear down to the point of stranding me twice, I no longer trust it....so I bought a Kuryakyn LED volt meter. Now I'll know if it stops charging. If you have any inclination to check it out yourself, get a shop manual. It will give you a lot of help. The dealer should take care of this, he owes you that much. I'm just the type who doesn't trust others to diagnose something like this properly when they know they aren't getting $$$$ for it. Warranty work doesn't pay much to the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BigDog Posted February 5, 2007 Share #6 Posted February 5, 2007 Let me toss this out to ya. While I wholeheartedly agree with doing as much of the work as possible, the dealer may see it a bit differently when being asked to perform warranty work. One example: The dealer had to split my fairing to install a new speedo. When I took the bike home I noticed the windshield shook a bit, so I removed the chrome strip and saw the shield was only tightened by one bolt....the others were loose. Where he tightened the one bolt, the fairing was cracked. I replaced the chrome and went immrdiately back to the dealer. Since I had to wait a few minutes outside I decided to help a bit by removing the chrome strip. When the manager and mechanic came out and saw the crack, the first thing out of both of their mouths was why did I remove the chrome and that I may have cracked the fairing myself. After some heated debate I got my new fairing. My point is this: You have a brand new bike under warranty. Let the dealer deal with it. Anything he messes up he has to fix. If he finds that YOU attempted ANY electrical work and comes to the conclusion that YOU may have fried something, he just might challange you on the repair. I also agree that most dealer repairs leaves a lot to be desired. Many times I had to go over the dealers work myself, which is where the manual comes in handy. Let them do the repairs. Worse comes to worse, at least you will get a free part out of it, even if you have to go back over it yourself. Dont ask how I know much of this stuff.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DREBBIN Posted February 5, 2007 Share #7 Posted February 5, 2007 I'm with ya! At only 645 miles in 8 days I'm not happy with this set up. I'm going this SAT for the break in service -- will be calling ahead of time to request that a NEW battery be filled & charged for installation. Yup, I don't like messing with anything that gives the dealer "an out". Been there TOO MANY times. Thnx, DREBBIN Let me toss this out to ya. While I wholeheartedly agree with doing as much of the work as possible, the dealer may see it a bit differently when being asked to perform warranty work. One example: The dealer had to split my fairing to install a new speedo. When I took the bike home I noticed the windshield shook a bit, so I removed the chrome strip and saw the shield was only tightened by one bolt....the others were loose. Where he tightened the one bolt, the fairing was cracked. I replaced the chrome and went immrdiately back to the dealer. Since I had to wait a few minutes outside I decided to help a bit by removing the chrome strip. When the manager and mechanic came out and saw the crack, the first thing out of both of their mouths was why did I remove the chrome and that I may have cracked the fairing myself. After some heated debate I got my new fairing. My point is this: You have a brand new bike under warranty. Let the dealer deal with it. Anything he messes up he has to fix. If he finds that YOU attempted ANY electrical work and comes to the conclusion that YOU may have fried something, he just might challange you on the repair. I also agree that most dealer repairs leaves a lot to be desired. Many times I had to go over the dealers work myself, which is where the manual comes in handy. Let them do the repairs. Worse comes to worse, at least you will get a free part out of it, even if you have to go back over it yourself. Dont ask how I know much of this stuff.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted February 5, 2007 Share #8 Posted February 5, 2007 What is the Charge , DC, Voltage, at the + Battery Terminal, with the engine running ?? ---- Is it Above 13 Volts ?? It should be at least 13.5 volts, ---- Did you measure it with a Good Digital Voltmeter? If its not Above 13 volts, either the charging system is bad ( bad Alternator, or bad Rectifier/Regulator Unit ) or the Battery is shorting out Internally. That means the battery is NO Good and should be replaced no matter what anybody tells you. But from everything thats been said, sounds like the charging system is Bad, thats why I say measure the voltage at + terminal with motor running. With a Real voltmeter!!! If its not above 13 volts, there is a problem in the charging system, And don't let the dealer tell you otherwise!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eck Posted February 5, 2007 Share #9 Posted February 5, 2007 I must say ........... I totally agree with ruffrider..... Very good info!! While I wholeheartedly agree with doing as much of the work as possible, the dealer may see it a bit differently when being asked to perform warranty work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwisor Posted February 5, 2007 Share #10 Posted February 5, 2007 Hello My 1999 Rsv Would Not Charge The Battery I Replaced The Rectofier Worked For A Couple Of Weeks Then I Went To The Dealer They Sead I Had To Big Of Aload On The Bike Thay Asked To Put A Heavy Duty Rectofier On And Hard Wire It Into The Wiring Since Thay Did That I Have Had No More Trouble With The Charging System You May Want Them To Do That To Yours With The Extra Load You Have Kevin Wisor 1999 Rsv Jax Fl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DREBBIN Posted February 6, 2007 Share #11 Posted February 6, 2007 Last TUE when the dealer ckd it he said he used a voltmeter and it was 13.7 at the batt. No matter -- I;m insisting on a new batt and we go from there -- if the problem persists -- here we go! What is the Charge , DC, Voltage, at the + Battery Terminal, with the engine running ?? ---- Is it Above 13 Volts ?? It should be at least 13.5 volts, ---- Did you measure it with a Good Digital Voltmeter? If its not Above 13 volts, either the charging system is bad ( bad Alternator, or bad Rectifier/Regulator Unit ) or the Battery is shorting out Internally. That means the battery is NO Good and should be replaced no matter what anybody tells you. But from everything thats been said, sounds like the charging system is Bad, thats why I say measure the voltage at + terminal with motor running. With a Real voltmeter!!! If its not above 13 volts, there is a problem in the charging system, And don't let the dealer tell you otherwise!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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