bongobobny Posted March 5, 2018 Share #26 Posted March 5, 2018 Also, the fluid in the reservoir may appear clean, but the fluid in the system itself is probably very dark! It's not like all the fluid in the reservoir goes through the whole system and mixes with it, quite the opposite! The fluid in the line pretty much goes back and forth in the line and stays there. The yucky stuff will appear at the bleeder end! I highly recommend using a speed bleeder, which is an 8MM x 1.25 (turns per MM) thread, and a vacuum pump to do the bleed operation! Use DOT4 synthetic brake fluid for the best performance. The synthetic fluid has a higher boiling point so it will stay cleaner longer and work better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share #27 Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) Ok. Someone please tell me that in 2007 dot 4 brake fluid was the color of espresso! Well I replaced it with the new clear dot 4 they are selling now. Didn’t go for a ride to check my clutch but will soon. I have to also check my new ebc hh front brake pads. I can’t believe that the clutch is worn out at 39000 miles when most of it is freeway gas stop to gas stop. I will advise how the acceleration goes. Fingers crossed. Is this the correct color for clutch fluid? VentureFar... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited March 7, 2018 by VentureFar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share #28 Posted March 6, 2018 Yup, one of the few unfortunate "bugs" with the 2nd gen. Good old Cheaper, Better, Faster (choose 2)... The other bugs are the ignition switch and the fuel pump points. Yup. Replaced the points at 15,000 miles and installed the ignition bypass relay. I am batting 1000 :-) VentureFar... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 6, 2018 Share #29 Posted March 6, 2018 I can’t believe that the clutch is worn out at 39000 miles when most of it is freeway gas stop to gas stop. I will advise how the acceleration goes. Fingers crossed. VentureFar... Neal with your kind of riding I highly doubt your clutch discs show any signs of wear.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leo3wheel Posted March 7, 2018 Share #30 Posted March 7, 2018 Install Barnett clutch springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share #31 Posted March 7, 2018 Install Barnett clutch springs. Going to see if the fluid change does anything. VentureFar... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 7, 2018 Share #32 Posted March 7, 2018 Going to see if the fluid change does anything. VentureFar... Just make sure that expansion hole is clear when you do. A little story. My first 83VR had a very bad slipping clutch, and after rebuilding the entire clutch from ground up it still slipped. I spent probably $250 bucks in new slave, rebuild kits, and clutch discs, plus a lotta man hours on the re-manufacture. In the end it was the plugged hole. Found the problem when I took everything apart and reassembled. It would have taken 30 minutes to clean out the hole and bleed!!.... The only good thing that came out of the whole experience is I got a very up-close and personal knowledge of the entire clutch system...and the clutch was in like-new condition... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share #33 Posted March 7, 2018 Just make sure that expansion hole is clear when you do. A little story. My first 83VR had a very bad slipping clutch, and after rebuilding the entire clutch from ground up it still slipped. I spent probably $250 bucks in new slave, rebuild kits, and clutch discs, plus a lotta man hours on the re-manufacture. In the end it was the plugged hole. Found the problem when I took everything apart and reassembled. It would have taken 30 minutes to clean out the hole and bleed!!.... The only good thing that came out of the whole experience is I got a very up-close and personal knowledge of the entire clutch system...and the clutch was in like-new condition... The little hole just to the right of the big hole definitely squirts. I am sure a lot of you will be thinking of all kinds of comments on that statement. This is a family forum. Keep it clean. VentureFar... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 7, 2018 Share #34 Posted March 7, 2018 The little hole just to the right of the big hole definitely squirts. I am sure a lot of you will be thinking of all kinds of comments on that statement. This is a family forum. Keep it clean. VentureFar... Actually it's on the left unless of course you're leaning over the top of the scoot... :-) Looks like someone started to drill a hole by mistake and then quit since the micro-hole is so damn small to see... I've never done it, but if I remember the next time, I'm thinking about drilling it out a tad bigger. I know Honda uses a larger hole in their masters. That would definitely eliminate the plugging by the smaller crystals.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share #35 Posted March 8, 2018 So I took her out for a quick test ride and I didn’t get anywhere near a freeway so I could only try the hard roll on in third. Seemed better but I never saw the slipping in third. Just 4 th and fifth. If it still slips on hard acceleration in 4th and 5th is it the springs or a whole skydoc? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 8, 2018 Share #36 Posted March 8, 2018 So I took her out for a quick test ride and I didn’t get anywhere near a freeway so I could only try the hard roll on in third. Seemed better but I never saw the slipping in third. Just 4 th and fifth. If it still slips on hard acceleration in 4th and 5th is it the springs or a whole skydoc? Just a thought... What type/brand/weight motor oil are you using?? Any oil with friction modifiers will cause the clutch to slip... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share #37 Posted March 8, 2018 Just a thought... What type/brand/weight motor oil are you using?? Any oil with friction modifiers will cause the clutch to slip... Valvoline or pennsoil 10/40 or 20/50 4 stroke oil. Always. Change at 5000 miles religiously. VentureFar... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 8, 2018 Share #38 Posted March 8, 2018 Valvoline or pennsoil 10/40 or 20/50 4 stroke oil. Always. Change at 5000 miles religiously. VentureFar... Not sure about Pennz, but Valvoline MC oil comes in two different types. One is for dry clutches and the other is for wet. The dry has friction modifiers. Might you have picked up the dry by mistake?? Just asking.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share #39 Posted March 8, 2018 Not sure about Pennz, but Valvoline MC oil comes in two different types. One is for dry clutches and the other is for wet. The dry has friction modifiers. Might you have picked up the dry by mistake?? Just asking.... This is the last oil I used 3000 miles ago Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 8, 2018 Share #40 Posted March 8, 2018 This is the last oil I used 3000 miles ago Take a look at the back of the bottle and see if what looks like a grey rain drop in the properties area. Friction Modifiers..... Lately I've been using Castrol Actevo Extra 4T. Its a blend of synthetic and Dino oils... but they change additives without telling anyone so check every time you pick some up. Any oil that says Energy Conserving has modifiers.... http://dr650.zenseeker.net/Lubrication/EnergyConserving.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted March 9, 2018 Share #41 Posted March 9, 2018 To answer your query about just the spring or the whole enchilada, usually just the spring will at least fix it, just remember all the time it is slipping you are glazing surfaces. The easiest fix is to replace the stock "spring" with the beefier PCW racing spring which does not require you to totally disassemble everything! If you do decide to replace everything, I highly recommend replacing the stock clutch disc with the Yamaha Heavy Duty one which has more surface area and you don't have to reinstall that stupid wire! Of course, the Barnett spring assembly is the best way to go but costs a lot more than the PCW spring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leo3wheel Posted March 9, 2018 Share #42 Posted March 9, 2018 https://www.ebay.com/p/Barnett-511-90-10002-Clutch-Spring-Conversion-Kit/171263698?iid=261700666860 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 9, 2018 Share #43 Posted March 9, 2018 The only way to know if your clutch is actually worn out is to measure the thickness of the plates. All that time it has been slipping you have also been wearing material off of the disks. Even when you do not feel it slipping it is most likely still creeping some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share #44 Posted March 24, 2018 Did the skydoc spring kit tonight. @cowpuc was really supportive. Said he would fly to Los Angeles if I got stuck (not really) The hardest part was cutting down the 5mm Allen wrench to fit behind the exhaust. The rest was just following clear instructions. I didn’t go for a ride but I did move It back and forth and the clutch worked! Like I said, I am not a wrench but I can follow instructions. I will update this thread after I try to roll on and see if it slips or not. VentureFar... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted March 24, 2018 Share #45 Posted March 24, 2018 Did the skydoc spring kit tonight. cowpuc was really supportive. Said he would fly to Los Angeles if I got stuck (really) The hardest part was cutting down the 5mm Allen wrench to fit behind the exhaust. The rest was just following clear instructions. I didn’t go for a ride but I did move It back and forth and the clutch worked! Like I said, I am not a wrench but I can follow instructions. I will update this thread after I try to roll on and see if it slips or not. VentureFar... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Fixed it!! that gorgeous scoot of yours is ALLLLLLLL better!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share #46 Posted April 2, 2018 All good! Clutch friction zone with sky doc spring kit is comfortable. No slipping at all on roll on in any gear at any rpm. The install was easy- even for a non wrench- Thank you all for your support and guidance. VentureFar...” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted April 2, 2018 Share #47 Posted April 2, 2018 Love it when a plan comes together. See we told you it was not all that hard to do. Now get out there and start CTFW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share #48 Posted April 2, 2018 Love it when a plan comes together. See we told you it was not all that hard to do. Now get out there and start CTFW. Yup finally did yesterday. 120 mile lunch ride. Very positive feel to the acceleration now. VentureFar... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiefGunner Posted April 20, 2018 Share #49 Posted April 20, 2018 To start with I don’t know what I am talking about. I have only heard the words here but never saw an explanation. When I am in 4th or 5th just below to the power band and I give it full throttle the revs come up obviously faster than the bike and then it evens out after a few moments of wild acceleration. Slipper clutch or clutch slipping ? Someone please explain this phenomenon. VentureFar... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Not familiar with this year Venture, but doesn't it have the same motor as the MK2? I rode my '91 pretty hard and kept having to replace the clutch parts. I found a tech tip on the old VTS website that stopped the problem. The motors are great, but the weakest point is the clutch due to using that ONE concave ring as the clutch spring. That ring sits in a retainer basket as well. I discovered that you could STACK a second spring ring ON TOP of the other and the retainer basket was still holding them both. Once completed you will DEFINITELY feel a difference in the clutch lever pull, BUT when I romped on my throttle the front end of that MK2 went UP IN THE AIR! no more slippage and all that torque had to go somewhere! Never had to replace my clutch plates & rings again after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share #50 Posted April 20, 2018 Not familiar with this year Venture, but doesn't it have the same motor as the MK2? I rode my '91 pretty hard and kept having to replace the clutch parts. I found a tech tip on the old VTS website that stopped the problem. The motors are great, but the weakest point is the clutch due to using that ONE concave ring as the clutch spring. That ring sits in a retainer basket as well. I discovered that you could STACK a second spring ring ON TOP of the other and the retainer basket was still holding them both. Once completed you will DEFINITELY feel a difference in the clutch lever pull, BUT when I romped on my throttle the front end of that MK2 went UP IN THE AIR! no more slippage and all that torque had to go somewhere! Never had to replace my clutch plates & rings again after that. Yup used the sky doc spring kit and all solid now. VentureFar... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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