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2005 RSV is now home


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Got her home, printed out a temp registration so I could get some gas and go for first ride.

 

Thoughts:

 

Totally different beastie from 1st Gen!!

 

1: Steering feels weird. Going into a turn..the opposite bar wants to pull on me...ie...it feels like if I let go in a turn, the handle bars would snap into the turn hard leaving me flying through the air. Slight exaggeration...but you get the idea. Both directions. Not neutral steering at all. Slow speed handling not as bad as I had heard once I put 42 pounds in rear and 36 pounds in front. Pirrelli's...relatively new. Front shocks at 0 lbs air and rear at 20 pounds.

 

2: Brakes are far better than 1st gen!

 

3: Not as much carrying capacity. No pouches, wasted space above feet on both sides where HD has cubbies.

 

4: I need to find one of these dampers: There are two...prices are totally different. I have one, the other is lost in neverland. [TABLE=width: 100%]

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[TD=colspan: 2][h=1]4XY-2317J-00-00 DAMPER 2. (under steering) Why different pricing? Look the same to me![/h]

5: The bottom of my two front cowls do not come together...looks like they should simply overlap then get pinned together. ???

 

6: Need to find a tool kit for it or build my own....

 

Overall...an interesting ride for sure. Not as sure footed (yet) as my 1st gen....but much easier for me to deal with being so much lower despite additional weight.

and yea, the gearing is a poor choice. MamaYamaha made a mistake there. They should have left the 1st gen's gears in. The RSV cruises nicely at 80mph....but does feel like it needs me to pay attention to the shift points at anything under 50mph. Gotta keep the revs up or she doesn't haul out like the 1st Gen does.

 

Ownership: one day. Things will improve, I'm sure!

david

IMG_20150426_120808_348.jpg

 

 

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Search for articles for the full story on how to check some of the following..

 

Steering: check the neck bearings for slop. Hoisted on a stable mount with the front wheel of the ground, you should be able to push / pull on the front wheel and not feel it knock in the neck area. If it does then you need to tighten the head and / or re-grease and re-install. If the bike feels like it's wallowing in a curve, it may well indicate loose neck bearings.

 

Fork pressure: It's a heavy bike.. with OEM springs in the shocks you should have some pressure in there to stiffen it up some. Personally, I have Progressive springs in mine and ride with 5 PSI for a stiffer ride. A stiffer front end gives you better cornering feel and helps reduce nose dive when aggressively braking. The more the nose dives (compressing the forks), the more the bike's weight tranfers off the rear wheel making it more susceptible to losing traction.

 

Lower shrouds attachment points: The bottom is supposed to overlap and held with an attachement screw (plastic). Remove the shrouds and re-attach properly. One side has a guide pin that goes into a grommet on the bike while the other side overlaps the first and held with that plastic screw..

 

Tire Pressure: The tire pressure listed in the book is for a "typical" ride of 160 lbs. Most gentlemen riders exceeed this "typical" classification so check to see if your tire pressures should be closer to that of 'two up' riding.. 36 PSI front seems low. I run my E3 tires at 38 in the front and 40 in the rear and easily get over 35,000 kms on them.

 

Leveling Links help with slow speed stability. Inexepensive and easy to install, makes a world of difference.

 

Brakes: EBC HH Sintered pads work great on this bike, lasts a lot longer than OEM.

 

I've never had the pleasure of trying out a First Gen Venture but from watching Earl pull away on his, yeah, thems are quicker bikes! The gearing on the stock RSV 2nd Gen leaves a bit to be desired but can be helped with a VMax rear diff. Riding it in the correct RPM range also helps. Higher revs doesn't always mean higher fuel consumption, as the engine is not being as heavily loaded as it is at lower rpms lugging up a hill.. If you ever hit the rev limiter on the 2Nd Gen, it gives you a better appreciation on what it can do.

 

With just over 220,000 kms on mine, I think I have it dialed in to where I like it for another 200K

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Thanks, Seaking.... I appreciate you addressing all the points I brought up. The PO had the tire pressures even lower...at 32F/36R ! But I agree...I think I'll kick the front up a few more pounds.

 

I also like the idea of some air in the front shock. I'll go for 5lbs and see how that works. Makes sense to me to have some extra capacity with such a heavy bike.

 

The shrouds....well..after crawling around with flashlight and just laying there looking...looks like the bike was down on left side at some point. Found the left lower attachment point for the shroud is a chrome bar welded to the chromed bottom crash bar. Seems to be pushed to the left. So the left shrowd is off to the left by 2 inches. Either I find a new one or bend the bar back to right. It "should" bend easily if I can figure out how to get the leverage.

 

Leveling links....I was reading about them. Slight change in geometry seems to make everyone happy. Looks simple enough.

 

I ordered some stuff from member vendors yesterday....when they come in, I'll get to work on bike. Need the lift adapter first so I can get her up and level and start working.

 

Thanks for thoughts!

david

Edited by videoarizona
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The lift adapter is essential for this bike IMHO, centre stands work great but can sometimes get in the way for a few tasks.

 

Sounds like the crash bar took a hit and bent a bit.. I have braces on mine that connect to the floor board mounts to stiffen them up a lot. Most likely won't do a thing in a crash but helps a lot with drops and tip overs. I do a lot of advance rider course instructions and ended up dropping my bike often learning the techniques, so that helped a lot. This is a ***** of of bike trying to do steering lock to steering lock slow tight turns with.. I've had to replace my floorboard drag lugs a few times already..

 

The leveling links do add some height to the rear of the bike height, but with a 28" inseam I don't find this too tall at all. If you're unsure of this additional height, put the rear wheel on top of a 3/4 inch plywood board and see how that fits.. it will give you a rough idea of the change.

 

One thing to remember about the 2nd Gen RSV is that it's not a Goldwing or a 1st Gen RSV, it handles differently, rides differently.. it's a beast of it's own. I've had several Goldwingers who tried my bike out say they appreciated the 'real bike' feel of this big beast.. I don't know if they were being polite but they often ask to take her out for a few runs..

 

I'd be out riding today if it wasn't frikken SNOWING out again.. geesus.. really?! Suffered enough PMS already (Parked Motorcycle Syndrome)..

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The lift adapter is essential for this bike IMHO, centre stands work great but can sometimes get in the way for a few tasks.

 

Sounds like the crash bar took a hit and bent a bit.. I have braces on mine that connect to the floor board mounts to stiffen them up a lot. Most likely won't do a thing in a crash but helps a lot with drops and tip overs. I do a lot of advance rider course instructions and ended up dropping my bike often learning the techniques, so that helped a lot. This is a ***** of of bike trying to do steering lock to steering lock slow tight turns with.. I've had to replace my floorboard drag lugs a few times already..

 

The leveling links do add some height to the rear of the bike height, but with a 28" inseam I don't find this too tall at all. If you're unsure of this additional height, put the rear wheel on top of a 3/4 inch plywood board and see how that fits.. it will give you a rough idea of the change.

 

One thing to remember about the 2nd Gen RSV is that it's not a Goldwing or a 1st Gen RSV, it handles differently, rides differently.. it's a beast of it's own. I've had several Goldwingers who tried my bike out say they appreciated the 'real bike' feel of this big beast.. I don't know if they were being polite but they often ask to take her out for a few runs..

 

I'd be out riding today if it wasn't frikken SNOWING out again.. geesus.. really?! Suffered enough PMS already (Parked Motorcycle Syndrome)..

 

 

I have the leveling links and am thinking of removing then and sliding front tubes up a inch??? Sound good?? I'm 6 ft with short legs and am finding it a lot harder to handle than the 1st Gen but have always had trouble at slow speeds because of short legs. And now with thois bum one I'm really struggling!! So I'm thinking remove leveling links, slid tubes up a inch or inch and a half and put 130 tire on at next change???

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David,

I just got done with a complete front end rebuild. All new bushings, seals and a set of 1.2 Sonic springs and 15W belray fork oil. you can read about the job HERE . And my impressions on the completed job HERE . A big job but well worth the time and dollars invested.

 

Enjoy the new bike, you'll love the ride comfort. :thumbsup2:

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I have the leveling links and am thinking of removing then and sliding front tubes up a inch??? Sound good?? I'm 6 ft with short legs and am finding it a lot harder to handle than the 1st Gen but have always had trouble at slow speeds because of short legs. And now with thois bum one I'm really struggling!!

@Yammer Dan, DON'T GO 1" !!!! Only go 3/4" I had slid my forks up 1" and on a hard bump the fork tube covers hit the lower tree, denting the covers. This may not be a problem for you since Don has already installed a set of sonic springs to it before you got it.

 

After my fork rebuild I slid the tubes up only 3/4" , I have not noticed any discernible difference from the previous 1"

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David,

I just got done with a complete front end rebuild. All new bushings, seals and a set of 1.2 Sonic springs and 15W belray fork oil. you can read about the job HERE . And my impressions on the completed job HERE . A big job but well worth the time and dollars invested.

 

Enjoy the new bike, you'll love the ride comfort. :thumbsup2:

 

Thanks! Another ride today to get the DMV title and plates. Getting used to her. Only real issue I have is how the front end wants to dive into a turn..especially at slow speeds. A body shop/paint guy (designs and builds custom bikes) said the old tire may be 90% of the problem. It's getting worn. I do have a new tire, courtesy of PO, so that and some paint work on fairing are next on my list. Then maybe updating the front end like Jay did...like his responses to the changes.

 

Seaking, sorry to hear about the snow! Beautiful day here ! Grins!

david

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Search for articles for the full story on how to check some of the following..

 

Steering: check the neck bearings for slop. Hoisted on a stable mount with the front wheel of the ground, you should be able to push / pull on the front wheel and not feel it knock in the neck area. If it does then you need to tighten the head and / or re-grease and re-install. If the bike feels like it's wallowing in a curve, it may well indicate loose neck bearings.

 

 

For the front end "feel"... I find if my front tire gets down to 34psi it feels like it isn't tracking right in a curve. I normally run 36-38psi in the front and 40psi on the rear.

 

Get the lift adapter from Carbon One and with the bike raised, turn the steering 45 degrees to one side and let go. If it moves at all, your steering head is too loose. Turn it the other way and test again. There is a write up on a "cheater" way of tighting the steering head. I do the steering test every time I get the bike up on the lift.

 

If your steering head is loose the bike will feel like it is wandering thru corners/curves.

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Don, I ordered the lift adapter...should be in end of week. Will test front end next week.

 

I'm used to the wandering from a loose front end, but this is different. Like the steering wants to snap further into the turn than I am doing. It's pulling into the turn in both directions. That part is a bit scary for me as I've never had a bike do that.

david

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I'm used to the wandering from a loose front end, but this is different. Like the steering wants to snap further into the turn than I am doing. It's pulling into the turn in both directions. That part is a bit scary for me as I've never had a bike do that. david

 

It feels like over steer? Have you checked the front tire for possible damage or belt breaks? A few years back I had hit a massive pothole on the I95 on my way to the Dragon's Tail and the ride got worse and worse on that trip. It wasn't till after I had gotten home that it was revealed that the tire was suffering from broken belts. It made the bike scary in turns.. Additionally, is there any chance the bike's geometry was altered in the negative, eg. lowered rear?

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Seaking,

Does feel kind of like an over steer. I looked the tire over but nothing can be seen that I recognize, other than it's worn. It's at the point where the wear marks are just showing. As soon as I get the initiative to take off the front tire and both rotors...I'll get the tire to a dealer to mount the new tire on.

 

I have no history on bike's travels or issues other than PO saying the bike was in great shape. Don't know about geometry or any mods. I was hoping someone else would have a similar experience and point me in a direction.

 

I did add more air in front tire...now up to 38 pounds. Will ride tomorrow in morning if winds allow and check out the steering again in slow turns. Such a weird feeling though, to initiate a turn then have the handlebars trying to move into the turn even more! I'm hoping there isn't any fork damage....I don't see anything...

 

david

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I have no history on bike's travels or issues other than PO saying the bike was in great shape. Don't know about geometry or any mods. I was hoping someone else would have a similar experience and point me in a direction.

 

I did add more air in front tire...now up to 38 pounds. Will ride tomorrow in morning if winds allow and check out the steering again in slow turns. Such a weird feeling though, to initiate a turn then have the handlebars trying to move into the turn even more! I'm hoping there isn't any fork damage....I don't see anything... david

 

When you say "slow turns", do you mean as in crawling speed turns or slow road speeds? I know that a loose neck will feel as you describe when doing slow tight turns, feels like the steering wants to fall into the steering locks but not so pronounced when taking 30 mph curves on the road. If you're doing slow tight turns in a parking lot, there is a lot of top weight on this bike and it will feel like it wants to fall over but you counter that with rear brake and revs while in the friction zone.

 

More will be revealed to you when you get the bike up on a hoist. As earlier described about the handle bar test, another test is to remove the key cover (so the risers don't hit it especially if you have extenders) and pushing the bars over to one side and the other until the forks hit the steering stops. The bars should bounce back and come back to a rest against the stops.. but if the bars bounce severeal times then it indicates the steering head is loose. If it doesn't bounce, it's too tight. When you rotate the steering from full left to full right, see if you can feel any grabbing, ratcheting or weird spots.. Then grasp the front wheel at the 3 o'clock position (looking at it from the right side) and give it a push pull tug. You should not feel any knocking at all. If you do, its a loose neck.

 

There is an article write up about the poor man's neck tightening which, IMHO should only be used for minor adjustments. If you're doing a full turn on the nut, then it might be time to relube. And if you're going to relube, why not replace the old bearings with new ones since you have to remove them to relube anyway.. I replaced mine at around the 60K miles mark after that I95 pothole hit as the steering got looser and looser the following year. It's been solid ever since.

 

But a new tire and steering neck checks will reveal more to you as to what is going on with the bike..

 

Best of luck!

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Clarification: So do I use smaller links in the rear to raise the bike to level and gain better handling? Or the reverse? david

 

If I remember properly, the new leveling links are shorter to raise the rear of the bike (due to the way the linkage works in the back)..

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Put the lift brace underneath yesterday and checked out my motorcycle lift. First time it's been used in two years. Pushed 2nd Gen up fine. While up, checked front end bearings. Feel good but were loose. They would rebound back and forth and not stay put in center. Took 1/4 turn to tighten the bearings up enough to where she would hold still in center and rebound properly. So they were quite loose.

 

Next up, take the front wheel off and get it to the tire shop to mount the new tire.

 

While it's there, I'll work on lowering the forks in front.....

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