Neil86 Posted December 5, 2014 Share #26 Posted December 5, 2014 The problem is those that have greased the coupler (86-up) have to clean out the grease to allow the ports to flow and return oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted December 5, 2014 Share #27 Posted December 5, 2014 Here's a question that I have not 'engineered' a logical answer to: if all the engine/drive shaft torque is transferred by the driveshaft splines and the coupler gear to the splines on the pinion shaft, WHY should the pinion shaft be breaking at the (presumably low stress) threads-to-splines transition? The threaded portion of the pinion shaft isn't carrying a torque force...or is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share #28 Posted December 5, 2014 Maybe Yamaha had a bad batch of heat treated shafts or during manufacturing the threads/splines/shafts...something they did weakened the shafts near the nut... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted December 5, 2014 Share #29 Posted December 5, 2014 Kevin, Because the broken shaft causes the shaft unit to make noise on deceleration, I bet the pinion is pushed forward (against the pinion bearing) on acceleration, and toward the back under deceleration but the pinion shaft keeps it from moving---until the threads break off. If this is correct, extremely hard deceration is probably what's breaking the shaft. Now we've all wound the bike to to red line, and then closed the throttle, so it's more extreme than that. Bump starting the bike when it's in 1st gear may be one thing. Also I'd imagine if you let the clutch out quickly while the engine was idling that may cause a lot of stress. Then maybe some of the pinions were over hardened when they were made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted December 5, 2014 Share #30 Posted December 5, 2014 Kevin, Because the broken shaft causes the shaft unit to make noise on deceleration, I bet the pinion is pushed forward (against the pinion bearing) on acceleration, and toward the back under deceleration but the pinion shaft keeps it from moving---until the threads break off. If this is correct, extremely hard deceration is probably what's breaking the shaft. Now we've all wound the bike to to red line, and then closed the throttle, so it's more extreme than that. Bump starting the bike when it's in 1st gear may be one thing. Also I'd imagine if you let the clutch out quickly while the engine was idling that may cause a lot of stress. Then maybe some of the pinions were over hardened when they were made. That's a valid premise, Frank. I am wondering if there is a 'prying' or 'levering' of the tallish cup shaped coupler gear. When the drive shaft rises or sinks with the application of engine torque, especially when the rear wheel is traversing dips and bumps in the roadway, causing the coupler to stress the pinion shaft at the shoulder of the threaded portion. Imagine a 2' long lever (the drive shaft) acting on the coupler and pinion trying to bend the coupler off the pinion. The drive shaft to coupler splines may become bound, preventing the sliding of the drive shaft and coupler, inducing a lateral force to the coupler. And the coupler is 'free hanging' with nothing but the outer oil seal to keep the coupler from wobbling. I dunno. Just theorizing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted December 6, 2014 Share #31 Posted December 6, 2014 Oh, one other thing. If you have not replaced your fuel filter in a while, now is a good time to do it. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted December 7, 2014 Share #32 Posted December 7, 2014 One thing to know is when you reassemble the rear tire, let all of the air out of the tire before you try to get past the bolts on the upper inside right side Just wondering, or is it wandering... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share #33 Posted December 8, 2014 My replacement swing arm, shaft and rear end will not be in until the 15th....so I guess it's waiting time for this kid.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted December 8, 2014 Share #34 Posted December 8, 2014 Not being critical, just curious, but why did you pop for the 'whole shebang' when you could have bought another final drive for one third? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share #35 Posted December 9, 2014 (edited) Kevin, Didn't like the one drive alone I saw on EBay the day I was looking. So bought the assembly. Now I have a spare of the bushings, bearings, shaft, etc.. My thinking here also is that I will take the one I bought apart...and if everything is as good as what I have or better, I will simply replace the assembly. Crossing fingers.... Oh..just thought of something: the rear end assembly I bought is supposedly from a 91. Wonder if it has the zerks on the swing arm??? Don't remember seeing them on the pictures.....but wasn't thinking about that. Hmm don't see any zerks in the pics... Edited December 9, 2014 by videoarizona Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil86 Posted December 9, 2014 Share #36 Posted December 9, 2014 Yamaha starting installing zerks on the 1990 Venture, but they are only on the relay arms that connect monoshock to swing arm, not the swing arm bushings themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share #37 Posted December 10, 2014 That explains it...thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share #38 Posted December 12, 2014 Parts came in yesterday. 5 days early. Guess I'd better get crackin cleaning and such! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share #39 Posted December 13, 2014 Update: Yesterday and today. Got the boot off protecting the ujoint and found the intermediate shaft good and tight. Nothing broken there. Whew. So rather than try and take the swing arm off (not fun for me since I don't have a socket large enough for the top bolts!)...I decided to take apart the used swingarm/rear end/driveshaft that I bought. The rear end (differential) looked fine. I cleaned and greased it up, then a buddy came over and we finessed the shaft into the ujoint. I snugged up the 4 bolts with the axle in for alignment. Going to leave everything as is until the new fuel filter comes in. Also put new pads on the rear brake as they were getting low. Opened the observation hole on the MC so I could bleed out the excess fluid as I pushed the pistons in. After installing the new pads, I used the old trick of taking corners of a clean rag and twisting it so it would fit down the MC fill hole to soak up more fluid. Wanted to get the fluid level down to where it should be. Amazing how much fluid comes out with a little capillary action! So that's done. There isn't any play on swing arm and eveything looks good there. Would have been nice to grease the top bushings but I'm not going to go and look for another large socket. More to come Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share #40 Posted January 6, 2015 UPDate: First test ride since pinion gear repair. Mucho quieter now during decelleration! So...guess that was the problem. Ran very nice. Two issues: 1: Battery warning now blinking - will check out later...but charging nicely so figure it's low on fluid... 2: The bike now has a slight wobble(?) like a sashay....at 75 mph. Sashay seems to be affecting the top of the bike...ie...I can feel it up top, not down below like a tire wobble. Checked both tires and rims....they look like they are tracking fine. Both tires are slightly out of round at one point...but that could be from sitting. Runout on both tires and rims is very low...I can't see it or feel it. Fairings, hard saddle bags and travel trunk are all tight. Running both tires at 40 pounds....out of a max 42. Nothing else was changed or disturbed. Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share #41 Posted January 6, 2015 thought I would add: Nothing was done to wheel bearings..they were well greased,I left them alone. Bushings look good in rear. Rear shock dampening on #2. Both shocks set for medium ride on auto. Nothing done to steering...it tracked beautifully with no wobble even with hands off (did the test after I first got her). This isn't a wobble per se...more like a sashay....gentle and constant at 75mph....like the top of the bike is leaning left/right in a gentle cycle. Slow down to 60 ish and it's gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted January 7, 2015 Share #42 Posted January 7, 2015 What tire are you running on the rear? To me, 40 psi to is a little low. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share #43 Posted January 7, 2015 Shinko TourMasters front and rear. Top pressure on tire for rated capacity is 42 pounds. High capacity tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 7, 2015 Share #44 Posted January 7, 2015 Check the torque on the triple tree steering head bearing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted January 7, 2015 Share #45 Posted January 7, 2015 Check the torque on the triple tree steering head bearing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share #46 Posted January 7, 2015 Check the torque on the triple tree steering head bearing... I hear ya...but...why would that change? I didn't touch the steering... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share #47 Posted January 7, 2015 Test ride 2: Both tire pressures at Max...42 pounds. Suspension back to "Low" on auto. Slight sashay at 70mph on up. BUT...only with turbulance! Took a back road and cranked it up with no traffic around...stable. Fairings are tight, fenders tight, saddlebags tight.....Only thing I've found is right muffler wiggles a little. The nut at the joint isn't tight enough I guess....so when she cools down, I'll make sure I have the clamp in the right spot and tighten down again. Axles torque'd, etc.. Do have the rear brake rotor getting hot...so there is drag there and the front left is warm. So I'll bleed more fluid out and check again. I put the rear axle washer between the caliper spacer and the frame...right? Not between the caliper spacer and the axle...? Can't find that in manual..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus1300 Posted January 7, 2015 Share #48 Posted January 7, 2015 make sure that you got the washer on right of the rear wheel back where it belongs. That will cause a hot rear rotor and a rear wheel misalignment The washer goes between the bracket and the swing arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share #49 Posted January 8, 2015 make sure that you got the washer on right of the rear wheel back where it belongs. That will cause a hot rear rotor and a rear wheel misalignment The washer goes between the bracket and the swing arm. Whew...that's where it is. Thanks for confirmation. Not shown is where the bracket is in relation to the washer and swing arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted January 8, 2015 Share #50 Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) Proper assembly pic below. Make sure you didn't lose the 'collar' from within the wheel assembly. The collar fits inside the oil seal on right side of wheel. The collar will often fall out in the course of changing the tire. The correct arrangement: Wheel>collar>caliper bracket>washer>swingarm. Edited January 8, 2015 by Prairiehammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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