keys! locksmith advice needed

[muaymendez1]

Not sure about the RSTC but look on the bag locks, there may be a number code there. Also check under the chrome ring for the gas cap or under the cap itself. The 1st Gens are stamped on the outside of the ignition housing, if I remember right. Need a small mirror to read it instead of trying to take switch apart.

 

Jim

 

I checked under the gas cap flap, looks like fuel damaged the number. Poor choice by Yamaha. There is al.a stamp letter letter digit on the flap. Don't know if that has anything to do with it.

I'm gonna try looking around the ignition switch bag locks, and helmet lock

[dacheedah]

Mine has an A followed by 4 numbers

[muaymendez1]

Screw it.

 

Here's the picture

What say you

 

[ATTACH]83599[/ATTACH]

[kentuckyrider]

My key was giving me issues. Worn down pretty bad. Worked good on the boxes, but had to play with it to get the ign switch to turn. Bought a blank online. Went to Ace Hardware and they did not even charge me to cut it. Works like a charm.

[Pegasus1300]

I never had to cut a 2nd gen so I don't know if they are the same but a Nissan blank from the eighties will work for 1st gen keys. I was stranded in a Sears parking lot with a broken key and the people at Sears matched the blank and cut me a new key.

[kentuckyrider]

I have a spare hidden on the bike, just in case I have one of those senior moments....Now if I can just remember where I hid it:think:

Do you hear a clinking sound when you fill up? LOL

[eusa1]

my money says your chasing the wrong problem.

you stated that the key works fine in all the locks, and only gives you trouble in the ignition switch........

the ignition switch is a well known failure in these machines and i have had several of them apart and repaired them.

when they get overheated and get near failure, the switch contacts melt and drop down inside the plastic base of the switch and it gets hard to turn the key.

I would be glad to offer more details if you wish to hear them, and want to remove your switch for repair.

mike

[Jimbob66]

let's try again

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251379511133?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

 

 

Thanks for the link! Ordered 3. Now to find someone who can cut them.

[Heartbeat]

I have the tools to punch your key. Refer to my earlier post on page 2.

 

The number found and shown on the gas cap in ink is a date reference, not the key code. I went through this a year ago. That is when I bought the adapters for my key cutter to punch keys for Yamahas. The actual key code would be stamped.

[muaymendez1]

I have the tools to punch your key. Refer to my earlier post on page 2.

 

The number found and shown on the gas cap in ink is a date reference, not the key code. I went through this a year ago. That is when I bought the adapters for my key cutter to punch keys for Yamahas. The actual key code would be stamped.

 

I have only one key. This key is in bad shape.

If I

A. Send you the key. I have no way to move the bike

B. Have no way of ensuring you can make a better key

The problem I was told was that making a copy of a bad key is basically making another bad key.

Therefore a code is the only way to ensure a factory key is made

Edited April 18, 2014 by muaymendez1

[Heartbeat]

I have only one key. This key is in bad shape.

If I

A. Send you the key. I have no way to move the bike

B. Have no way of ensuring you can make a better key

The problem I was told was that making a copy of a bad key is basically making another bad key.

Therefore a code is the only way to ensure a factory key is made

 

 

I can definitely make a better key (a factory-like key) because I am not using your current key to guide my cutter/puncher; that would be making a "copy of a bad key." With your key, I would measure the current cuts to assess what the cuts should be which is also what the code would tell me. If you don't have any other key, I could probably take my measurements from an exact cardboard cutout. These keys have 7 cuts and each cut can be up to 5 (I believe) different depths.

 

I have the picture of your key and I think I can determine the readings that I need and punch a key from it.

 

Email or PM me your address and I will punch and send a key to you. If it works, square up with me then.

 

Having a factory-like punched key, that I can make, is your best bet of getting your ignition switch to work better along with lubrication. The tumbler on all locks do wear but with a good key and lock lubrication, you can usually get a long time out of the tumblers/lock itself.

 

If you were to find a key code, it would need to be a code from A7001 to A8500. It would be stamped with a punch not in ink. The ink code found is a date marking. I was told the only place you may find a key code on the bike is stamped on the ignition switch or on the helmet locks.

 

Mike

[muaymendez1]

Very cool of you to offer Mike. I will look on the helmet lock. I will pm you soon.

Thanks for addressing my concerns

Jose

[jburrell]

I bought keys for .89 ea online and had ace hardware cut one side for ignition and otherside for bags. Worked fine

 

 

James

[RandyR]

I bought keys for .89 ea online and had ace hardware cut one side for ignition and otherside for bags. Worked fine

James

 

My local Ace HW was unable to cut a key that worked for me. ymmv

[vzuden]

I had a key cut at ACE with no problem. They copied it from my every day use key

[muaymendez1]

I had a key cut at ACE with no problem. They copied it from my every day use key

 

That's awesome if you have a good key. Not so much if your key is damaged

[buddy]

Been following this tread and I hope it works in your favor

As I'm in the same boat sorta as I just got my Midnight back with one key the key itself is good but what's funny is after all this time - years I had spare keys for Midnight laying around so what do I do ? Throw them away three weeks before I bought Midnight back go figure so now I need more keys made why I threw them away I don't know as I have keys from bikes 25yrs ago

[Sexagenarian]

I can definitely make a better key .... Email or PM me your address and I will punch and send a key to you. If it works, square up with me then.

 

If you were to find a key code, it would need to be a code from A7001 to A8500. It would be stamped with a punch not in ink. The ink code found is a date marking. I was told the only place you may find a key code on the bike is stamped on the ignition switch or on the helmet locks. Mike

 

I also tried the ace hardware visit to try and get a spare made. They made one from a blank utilizing the closest match they could. Unfortunately, it did not work. They mentioned that if I had a yamaha blank then it probably would have worked. Since that time I was fortunate and found my spare set. But I still have no key code either.

If it were me, I would do one of two things:

1) order a blank off the ebay site which was posted and hopefully get one cut. OR

2) Take up the offer given to you above by Mike. That is one of the most generous offers I have seen in a while. I do not know Mike, but if it were me, this is the path I would choose. You would know that sooner or later you would end up with the correct key AND more importantly, the correct key code for your bike. If there is ever a new owner down the road, they will appreciate you for this.

 

just my humble opinion...

 

hope everything works out for you!!

-Wayne

[RandyR]

In one of the previous threads there is a post which gives a commercial key equivalent of the Yamaha key. I just dug mine out. its an Ilco X248 YM63.

[muaymendez1]

Ok So Heartbeat has earned a lot of respect from me. Not that I didn't trust him, I just didn't want my only key to be away ,or worse yet ,lost in the mail. As many have read he altered his original offer abd cut me a key, just by looking at a picture. (Amazing). He shipped me 2 keys in case one cut didn't work.

The key worked and had me jumping for joy. I now have to square away with him although he did this in good faith , for a member.

A + member ......Heartbeat. Thank you.