buddy Posted January 24, 2007 Share #26 Posted January 24, 2007 Well I went by the family Dollar and picked up some Pledge.I tried it out on the bike could not beleive the shine it put on the bike,here I was using that other armor stuff.Big Big difference,plus this stuff does not run as bad like the other stuff does.thanks for the information,My Mom used this stuff for years around the house never thought of using Pledge on a motorcycle. buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Dog Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share #27 Posted January 24, 2007 Well I went by the family Dollar and picked up some Pledge.I tried it out on the bike could not beleive the shine it put on the bike,here I was using that other armor stuff.Big Big difference,plus this stuff does not run as bad like the other stuff does.thanks for the information,My Mom used this stuff for years around the house never thought of using Pledge on a motorcycle. buddy Hey Buddy, Glad that you like the results! Plus you save big bucks! http://cybergifs.com/emphasis/fistcash.gif Better Spent on CHROME! or http://cybergifs.com/food/grilling.gif Dog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 24, 2007 Share #28 Posted January 24, 2007 Speaking of shine...glad ya'll brought the subject up... I painted the front plastic on the '93 last summer, and when I put the clear on I expected to see a nice wet look shine to the finish. Not so. The clear dried in a matte finish. I talked to the auto paint outlet here in town, and they said that's what you get with acrylics, and to wait 30 days for the paint to totally cure before buffing. I've seen this Crystal-Glo advertised in a few places and thought I'd give it a try on one of the smaller pieces. Anyone else ever used this stuff??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Dog Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share #29 Posted January 24, 2007 Speaking of shine...glad ya'll brought the subject up... I painted the front plastic on the '93 last summer, and when I put the clear on I expected to see a nice wet look shine to the finish. Not so. The clear dried in a matte finish. I talked to the auto paint outlet here in town, and they said that's what you get with acrylics, and to wait 30 days for the paint to totally cure before buffing. I've seen this Crystal-Glo advertised in a few places and thought I'd give it a try on one of the smaller pieces. Anyone else ever used this stuff??? Hi Jack, From the sounds of it you might have used an incorrect reducer in your paint. I spray clear over acrylic enamel all the time, even when the undercoat color is still wet. I've seen too much fish eye remover put into the mix and the wrong temp reducer cause the same effect. Did the same thing once myself....Don't tell anyone! About all you can do my friend is get out the 1500 grit sand paper and sand it back down to the undercoat of paint and start over. http://www.cybergifs.com/funny/cheers.gif Dog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted January 24, 2007 Share #30 Posted January 24, 2007 The more I hear about this paint deal I'm gone to get me a brush and a quart of Latex and go at it!!! I think I can handle that and could have a new color every week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 24, 2007 Share #31 Posted January 24, 2007 Hi Jack, From the sounds of it you might have used an incorrect reducer in your paint. I spray clear over acrylic enamel all the time, even when the undercoat color is still wet. I've seen too much fish eye remover put into the mix and the wrong temp reducer cause the same effect. Did the same thing once myself....Don't tell anyone! About all you can do my friend is get out the 1500 grit sand paper and sand it back down to the undercoat of paint and start over. Dog Mark- Actually I'm using Acrylic Laquer, and it comes in a can so I can't screw up. I've been laying on about three coats and sanding between each coat, and then putting on the clear after the final sanding. I'm using Tempo spray paint that's designed to match OB motor colors. I liked Evinrude Metalic Charcoal after doing a couple of lower legs and decided to go that route for the '93 since it was a houge-pouge of different colors after replacing a lot of the fairing. I'm actually very pleased with the outcome...all except the matte finish. So I'll give Crystal-Glo a shot to see if it works. Attached is a pic of the fairings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANJ Posted January 24, 2007 Share #32 Posted January 24, 2007 Speaking of shine...glad ya'll brought the subject up... I painted the front plastic on the '93 last summer, and when I put the clear on I expected to see a nice wet look shine to the finish. Not so. The clear dried in a matte finish. I talked to the auto paint outlet here in town, and they said that's what you get with acrylics, and to wait 30 days for the paint to totally cure before buffing. I've seen this Crystal-Glo advertised in a few places and thought I'd give it a try on one of the smaller pieces. Anyone else ever used this stuff??? What type of material did you use? Acrylic Laquer? Acrylic Enamel? Arcylic Urethane? May have some advice depending on the material. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 24, 2007 Share #33 Posted January 24, 2007 What type of material did you use? Acrylic Laquer? Acrylic Enamel? Arcylic Urethane? May have some advice depending on the material. Dan Acrylic Laquer.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilCruise Posted January 24, 2007 Share #34 Posted January 24, 2007 Don't laugh Dan - The guy I got one of my parts bikes from had done exactly that. Based on those results I'd suggest you try something else! The more I hear about this paint deal I'm gone to get me a brush and a quart of Latex and go at it!!! I think I can handle that and could have a new color every week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANJ Posted January 24, 2007 Share #35 Posted January 24, 2007 Yep, Looks like you were answering as I was asking! Have ya tried "Rubbing Compound"? Laquer clears dry dull as the solvents evaporate very quickly leaving a coarse surface to the finish. In order to get the shine, you'll need to polish using varying grits of compound. If you have enough clear over the base-coat start with a course and finish with a finnese. If you have a low speed buffer (800rpm no greater that 1200rpm)that will save alot of "Elbow Grease" if you feel handy with it. I'm suprised that the folks at the paint store didn't caoch you about the process. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Dog Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share #36 Posted January 24, 2007 Wow Jack, I haven't used laquer in many years! Dan is right about having to rub it out to get it to shine. I didn't realize that you were using spray cans, didn't really think about it...sorry! I did paint a show car with 13 coats of hand rubbed laquer one time...took me 3 weeks to paint it. I didn't think I was ever going to get finished! http://cybergifs.com/funny/taz.gif Get rubbing my friend! Dog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 24, 2007 Share #37 Posted January 24, 2007 I'm suprised that the folks at the paint store didn't caoch you about the process. Dan I really didn't get into it with them that much. Only that it does dry faster. I bet the middle of the summertime and pushin' 90+ degs didn't help matters any either?? I wonder if going to a regular can of clear and mixing in a flow agent might help a bit?? Buffing is also an option, and yeah I've had lots of practice... However..... I'm still going to pick up a can of that Crystal-Glo and give is a try. It just might save a bunch of elbow grease... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANJ Posted January 24, 2007 Share #38 Posted January 24, 2007 I did paint a show car with 13 coats of hand rubbed laquer one time...took me 3 weeks to paint it. Aren't we glad that there are better methods these days!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANJ Posted January 24, 2007 Share #39 Posted January 24, 2007 ]..... I'm still going to pick up a can of that Crystal-Glo and give is a try. It just might save a bunch of elbow grease...[/size] I'm not sure what "Crystal-Gol" is, but it sounds like one of the polymer polishes. Depending on how long the finish has been applied, it could have just the reverse result you are looking for. Laquers, even Acrylic are just a little bit porous and could have the effect of dulling the finish from within. (and that won't pollish out) Laquers like good old Wax (carnuba). Chat with the paint rep before you apply anything other than compound and wax:no-no-no: Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mean Dog Posted January 24, 2007 Author Share #40 Posted January 24, 2007 Yea Buddy, I sure can't say that they were the good ole' days! I used laquer for a lot of years and did the custom paint thing! Lace, endless lines, pannel painting, flames, smoke from a torch, and plastic wrap, woodgrain, u name it! Now I just let someone else do it! Aren't we glad that there are better methods these days!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANJ Posted January 24, 2007 Share #41 Posted January 24, 2007 Yea Buddy, I sure can't say that they were the good ole' days! Done alot of that myself. (still operating a 44 year old shop) Do a couple of show cars a year, and I'm sure glad the urethanes have come as far as they have. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 24, 2007 Share #42 Posted January 24, 2007 I'm not sure what "Crystal-Gol" is, but it sounds like one of the polymer polishes. Depending on how long the finish has been applied, it could have just the reverse result you are looking for. Laquers, even Acrylic are just a little bit porous and could have the effect of dulling the finish from within. (and that won't pollish out) Laquers like good old Wax (carnuba). Chat with the paint rep before you apply anything other than compound and wax:no-no-no: Dan I put a hotlink http://crystal-glo.com/usa/bike/ in a previous thread. Sounded like the real deal, but you right, I think I'll hold off a do a little more research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANJ Posted January 24, 2007 Share #43 Posted January 24, 2007 I put a hotlink http://crystal-glo.com/usa/bike/ in a previous thread. Sounded like the real deal, but you right, I think I'll hold off a do a little more research. Haven't seen that particular product before, but there are alot of similar products out there. This is an acrylic "Glaze". They do provide a relatively high gloss but that is assuming that you already have a smooth sealed finish to start with. The only way to bring a gloss to lacquer is to smooth the surface by polishing,(just like on metal) then a good wax to fill and brighten the surface. Hope that helps. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seabeetom Posted March 7, 2008 Share #44 Posted March 7, 2008 Well, I had read about using Lemon Pledge on bikes at some other sites. I tried it today on the 06 RSV and behold, it worked great! I have been using Honda Spray Polish and hear that they are discontinuing it. (It worked great for me too.) I used the Pledge all over the bike including the windshield and it shines like it did when I saw it on the show room floor. Hey $3.00 a can beats $5.50 in my book any day! And it sure makes the bike smell good! I don't know if it will clean the bugs off like Honda Polish but, we will see. I also use Go-Jo hand cleaner (Creamy Type) on my other bikes windshield and it covers up or seems to remove all the little scratch marks and swirls in it that you see when riding into the sun. Just rub it on the windshield with my fingers and wipe it with a terry-cloth towel. Dog Dog, Seems I read on some website that windex/pledge has a tendency to soften the glazing/coating on the windshield and that it's use was not encouraged for that reason. My dos centimos... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stanman Posted March 7, 2008 Share #45 Posted March 7, 2008 I would use a little caution using this product. I applied it to the front of the fuel truck I was driving to make the bugs easier to remove. The truck suddenly got very busy and didn't get washed for about 6 weeks. The cooking oil dried on and was more difficult to remove than any of the bugs. Wore out an entire Scotch Brite pad buffing the crap off. For me, NEVER again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted March 7, 2008 Share #46 Posted March 7, 2008 I'm gonna give Pam a try on the next ride. Not sure if anyone responded to this as I didn't read past this post before responding...... Now, I wouldn't mind giving "Pam" a try on my next ride either.... :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted March 7, 2008 Share #47 Posted March 7, 2008 Mark- Actually I'm using Acrylic Laquer, and it comes in a can so I can't screw up. I've been laying on about three coats and sanding between each coat, and then putting on the clear after the final sanding. I'm using Tempo spray paint that's designed to match OB motor colors. I liked Evinrude Metalic Charcoal after doing a couple of lower legs and decided to go that route for the '93 since it was a houge-pouge of different colors after replacing a lot of the fairing. I'm actually very pleased with the outcome...all except the matte finish. So I'll give Crystal-Glo a shot to see if it works. Attached is a pic of the fairings. http://www.u-pol.com/countries/en/navigate.htm Clear #1- UV Resistant Clear Coat http://www.u-pol.com/countries/en/images/misc/untitled.jpg FEATURES High performance 1K clear coat that gives 2K performance with the convenience of an aerosol.BENEFITS Crystal clear. Excellent build. Compatible with water-based base coats. Excellent gloss and image depth. Ideal for spot repairs. Gives a durable, UV resistant finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleadhed Posted March 8, 2008 Share #48 Posted March 8, 2008 Well, I had read about using Lemon Pledge on bikes at some other sites. I tried it today on the 06 RSV and behold, it worked great! I have been using Honda Spray Polish and hear that they are discontinuing it. (It worked great for me too.) I used the Pledge all over the bike including the windshield and it shines like it did when I saw it on the show room floor. Hey $3.00 a can beats $5.50 in my book any day! And it sure makes the bike smell good! I don't know if it will clean the bugs off like Honda Polish but, we will see. I also use Go-Jo hand cleaner (Creamy Type) on my other bikes windshield and it covers up or seems to remove all the little scratch marks and swirls in it that you see when riding into the sun. Just rub it on the windshield with my fingers and wipe it with a terry-cloth towel. Dog Be cautious with pledge on the windshield!! It will soften the lexan and allow the windshield to scratch easy. I read a really good post on this somewhere about this. The author had worked with plastic's and lexan for years. he also stated that rain-x will damage the lexan over time. to clean your shield use very mild soap and a soft cloth using only vertical and horizontal motions. that way when you start to see scratches when the sun hits it just right it is much easier to see past straight scratches rather than circular scratches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted March 8, 2008 Share #49 Posted March 8, 2008 Be cautious with pledge on the windshield!! It will soften the lexan and allow the windshield to scratch easy. I read a really good post on this somewhere about this. The author had worked with plastic's and lexan for years. he also stated that rain-x will damage the lexan over time. to clean your shield use very mild soap and a soft cloth using only vertical and horizontal motions. that way when you start to see scratches when the sun hits it just right it is much easier to see past straight scratches rather than circular scratches. That may be true but I can say that after 5 years of using it on my last scoot, the windshield looked as good as it did the day I bought it new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 8, 2008 Share #50 Posted March 8, 2008 Be cautious with pledge on the windshield!! It will soften the lexan and allow the windshield to scratch easy. I read a really good post on this somewhere about this. The author had worked with plastic's and lexan for years. he also stated that rain-x will damage the lexan over time. to clean your shield use very mild soap and a soft cloth using only vertical and horizontal motions. that way when you start to see scratches when the sun hits it just right it is much easier to see past straight scratches rather than circular scratches. I can't be 100% sure, but I think our windshields are made out of plexiglass. Much tougher, more scratch resistence, and will not yellow over time. So.... Pledge isn't going to effect it like it would Lexan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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