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New to me RSV-Hannigan Trike Check-Setup_Mod


First_N_Last

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I just couldn't get myself out in the cold to do any work, but I did take some photos...

to generate awe & wonder...

 

Now look at this BLUE wire - what was the purpose behind the Crimp-Splicers?

Were they really just making a long blue wire out of three small pieces of blue wire?

...or was the there a purpose beyond what a normal mind can understand????

 

582302_4548121174802_2072035602_n.jpg

 

The same for this yellow wire - just making a longer yellow wire?

... or was this a secret way of making this bike run better, faster & more efficient?

Is this technology & knowledge lost in the last few years?

 

268426_4548116094675_52932269_n.jpg

 

or just piss poor wiring????:bang head:

418138_4548116854694_1053962448_n.jpg

 

Everything I look at seems to need attention.

I will prevail - I have the knowledge & technology - solder - soldering iron -

electrical tape - decent quality crimp connectors - heat shrink - heat gun - common sense

 

It's just that my patience is running thin - WHAT NEXT - Ha!

 

What wonders of wiring, technology, etc. will be revealed when I take the gas tank off?

Huuuummmmmm

 

I'll wait a year before I do that.

 

JohnnyB

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I hate to see those wire connectors used for anything that is exposed to the elements. Moisture, then corrision,then failure is generally the results of using them. Jay (ragtop69gs) had a ball trying to locate a power failure and eventually found the voltage loss at one of those connectors on his bike. John you're doing yourself a favor doing the repairs the old and best way, solder and shrink tubing the connecting wires. :080402gudl_prv:

Larry

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I paid him extra :mo money: to put those in there for you since we knew you'd be adding a bunch of stuff. No need to thank me... just watchin out for ya. :whistling:

 

Oh Jay, thanks so much!

 

Now what things should I add...

 

  • AI (artificial intelligence)
  • a Cylon reciprocating red light eye
  • freakin laser beans to put on my head
  • force field equipment
  • teleportation equipment
  • google auto-driving control interfaces
  • coffee maker installed on handle bars
  • 20" windows 8 display system with both touch & gesture control

Any other suggestions????

:179:

 

 

JohnnyB

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41 degrees was the warmest it got today so I spent about 40 minutes on the bike work today.

 

Changed the front brake bleeder valves with Speed Bleeders.

Then I decided to do the last steps of the clutch upgrade.

 

Pulled the cover...

543816_4559176011166_1470993783_n.jpg

 

I laid out the allen bolts, Green Springs, extra friction plate...

1215_4559178051217_345207143_n.jpg

 

All the plates came out easy in one clump...

530546_4559178131219_461092611_n.jpg

 

Here is the removed Barnett Pressure Plate - old springs & new springs...

835_4559178171220_1485629764_n.jpg

 

Here's a photo of the gob of plates with the half plate & spacer which I am replacing...

196940_4559178331224_257050402_n.jpg

 

This time I got the correct full friction plate -

This photo shows the half plate & spacer compared to the normal full friction plate...

68692_4559178451227_1032687052_n.jpg

 

Then I just put it all back together & that was it for the day.

 

JohnnyB

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John, it's looking good. I have a question for you, when u replaced the fork springs does the pvc spacers go in first or last (on top of the spring)before you screw the cap on top. I'm going to replace mine next week. :confused24:

 

insertion order into the fork tube...

 

  1. while fork tube is compressed, the 6 3/4" (which I cut from the tube in the kit) spacer goes in first
  2. I put the washer in right after the spacer at the same time
    - so the washer wouldn't give me problems turning on it's side
  3. then the spring went in & I pulled the fork out to full extension

Then I just grabbed the top of the fork tube with my left hand & pushed the fork cap over the spring as I twisted/threaded it on. After the tube was in the tree I did a pre-tighten - finished tightening the cap - then loosened the fork & placed it in final position for final torgue-ing.

 

 

JohnnyB

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Just in case anyone misses me for the next week...

I'm taking a week off from working on this.

 

In the morning, I'm on my way to the

International Consumer Electronics Show in Vegas

& some hiking in Red Rock Park while I'm there.

 

I'll be looking for Electronics to hook up to those

high tech pink & blue things on my wiring in the front fairing.

:smile5:

 

JohnB

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  • 2 weeks later...

Slow start getting back to continuing checks & repairs...

 

 

  • Put the lower half of the top fairing on & connected all of the main cables without incident
  • rewired horn relay circuit wiring
  • rewired passing lamps circuit wiring

At this point, I did a start check. Turned on the ignition & not a single light lit. Metered the battery - 0 volts!

 

At this point, I looked at the battery - it was a pseudo sealed lead acid type. I pried the cap strip off to find that every cell had the plates showing. My sold as "Good Battery" seemed to have been trickle charged to an early death. Not by me - the previous owner.

 

Took a break - bought & installed a Deka AGM battery... Then it started & everything is working to this point.

 

That is it for this weekend.

 

JB

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The sun came out & the air warmed up, so I got to work on the Trike again...

 

  • Flushed & bled the front brakes
  • Flushed & bled the clutch
  • Installed new grips

65245_4657757515642_1125860668_n.jpg

 

 

  • Installed Kuryakyn foot pegs

424022_4657757275636_1035354030_n.jpg

 

  • installed front fork air balance kit (air shock crossover)

775060_4657757955653_750543584_o.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • finished wiring in fairing - mounted air horn - closed up fairing & put the rest of the front end stuff back on

734735_4657756995629_1418045391_n.jpg

 

 

  • replaced front fog lights & installed modulated headlight
  • mounted the tachometer on the front brake reservoir

That was it for today - I hope it will be nice for just one more day!

 

 

JohnnyB

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May be the pic but looks like your driving lights have the same problem mine do. The one on the right is closer to the fairing than the one on the left. I have adjusted wiggled and scratched my head can't figure out where it's at unless the bar was welded to bracket of center.

 

 

Looking good though glad your getting it all back together cause spring is just around the corner.

 

 

 

Did you plumb up the balance kit yourself or buy one.

 

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May be the pic but looks like your driving lights have the same problem mine do. The one on the right is closer to the fairing than the one on the left. I have adjusted wiggled and scratched my head can't figure out where it's at unless the bar was welded to bracket of center.

 

 

Looking good though glad your getting it all back together cause spring is just around the corner.

 

 

 

Did you plumb up the balance kit yourself or buy one.

 

 

lights are equal - parallax issue due to photo angle

 

the balance kit was half & half using a Monroe Air Shock Balance kit to start.

 

JohnB

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I had one more day of warm weather & worked into the dark with headlights from my car...

 

 

  • replaced the spark plugs with Iridium plugs
    (two of originals were loose)
  • flushed the radiator fluid & replaced
  • wired up Baron's Tachometer

Actually road it around the neighborhood... Woo Hoo!

 

 

This morning it is 31 degrees with continued days in the 30s for days. ARGH!

Oh well...

I still have a few things left to do - later

 

 

JohnB

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Today was the 1st warm day since I put it back together, so I rode it to work for a shake down...

 

The only problem was kind of weird - new grip for the throttle broke free from the throttle sleeve body.

I just glued it back on & then finished the name on the bike.

 

792319_4708582146226_1736778291_o.jpg

 

287690_4708587386357_1946882113_o.jpg

 

480699_4708588186377_1351833876_n.jpg

 

JohnB

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