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Lifting a first gen


BlueVenture87

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If you decide to do this, like mentioned, the balance is the crucial issue. Depending on how high the table is your going to set it on, will determine the butt pucker factor. Keep in kind that you obviously want the legs on the engine stand extended as far as you can get them and the lift arm as short as you can get.

 

Move the bike as close to the table as you can so your not trying to push 800+ lbs 3' in the air much distance. All the plastic off is a great idea, and it will give you some more hand holds. That being mentioned I would want to do it with 3 people. Me being in control of the hoist and 1 person on the front and back. The bigger the guys on the front and back the better. Make sure your table is plenty sturdy enough to handle 1000 lbs....good luck with your move.

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Used a front end loader on a Goldwing. Removed plastic on top and around handlebars. Put a lift sling down and around the upper triple tree casting. Then put 2 straps down to the subframe in the back. This gave me a three point lift. These were short slings. I then hooked chaims to the slings so I could adjust lengths to get a level lift. It took about 3 test lifts to get the length correct. I used actual lift type slings. Not any kind of ratchet strap. Put the bike up on a flatbed semi.

 

If you remove the cruise control plastic and the grill work around the tunnel the front will be easy. Take off the stamped steel support bracket for the cruise module and the upper casting is easily accessible. Now the rear is a different story. Take off side panels, seat, and saddlebag lids. Now you can see the framework. I would catch just forward of the upper subframe bolts. You can use the centerstand pivot as an earmark. Being a bit rearward of that will ensure that the front isn't too light. Then make a test lift with the bike on the centerstand. Make sure and tie the centerstand forward to the bottom of an engine guard so it cannot flip up. I would position the bike where I wanted to work on it. Make the lift and slide the table under it. Do not move the bike!! All you would need is a swing or bounce to create a dynamic load that would overturn the lift. I would also counter weight the hoist even if the rated capacity was up to the lift. A couple hundred pounds of rock salt in bags etc. I would also not lift over a couple feet up. One thousand pounds of bike falling from three foot up would be ugly. Don't forget tie down points on the table and possibly anchoring down the table. You will need about eight foot in length and 30" of width. Any narrower could be fatal. Not saying this will not work, but think it through and have help around. Make sure the legs of the table are well angle braced.

 

I could see myself making a sturdy table about 24" tall and 36" wide. Using a good framework doubled 2 by 4 and 3/4" plyboard. My table lift is narrower than that and the same length. It is sturdy and I do not worry about the bike on it. The major difference on the lift and the table is the weight of the table down low. Put cross bars between the wooden table legs and drop some weight on them. And make sure the centerstand spot is reinforced.

 

There are pictures on a Harley forum of a guy who made a table much like this then he constructed an 8 foot ramp of 2x4 and plywood. Ran the bike up and removed the ramp. His looked about 18" tall.

 

JB

Edited by lonestarmedic
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Has anyone ever lifted a first gen on to a work table with an engine hoist? I have a sturdy table and hoist. Purchasing a lift table is out of reach financially but I like the table height for winter service. Any list wisdom on this?

 

What is your engine hoist rated for? Keep in mind the weight rating is usually with the lifting arm at it's shortest length...the more you extend the arm, the less it can lift safely. Just sayin'.

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