Ignition Switch install...

[straycatt]

I replaced a faulty ignition switch today, and while there is plenty of info on the forum on how to do it, I wanted to share how I dealt with the tamper proof bolts that hold the switch to the frame.

 

There is no "head" to get a tool onto these bolts, so many guys use a dremel or die grinder to cut slots into the head so they can remove the bolts with a screw driver. Another option is to just drill out the bolt and then remove the remaining bolt after the switch has been removed.

 

I decided that since I didn't need to salvage the switch or the housing (it was already broke) it wouldn't hurt to break it more. I used a small sharp chisel to break part of the switch base so I could get at the recessed bolt heads.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange014.jpg

 

Then I used the chisel to tap into the side of the bolthead, making a gouge for the tool to bite into and loosening the bolt. It was just a matter of a couple of revolutions and I could turn it the rest of the way by hand.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange015.jpg

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange018.jpg

 

I replaced the factory bolts with a couple of metric allen head bolts from my collection and I'm good to go.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange021.jpg

 

Total time, start to finish to replace the switch.....1 hour, give or take.

[Bobby G]

We did basically the same thing last year. Were you able to re-key the ignition so that you could use your existing key that locks your bags, helmet locks, etc., or are you using two different keys like I am now? That's kind of a pain, but you get used to it after awhile.

[straycatt]

I talked to two different lock smiths and they both said the same thing. Neither the ignition switch or the luggage/gas cap could be rekeyed.

 

I now have to deal with two keys as well. In order to tell them apart I left the triangle plastic head on the ignition key, and broke the plastic off of the luggage/gas key. No mistaking them now.

 

The lock smith made me a third spare key, so I have the one I carry, a spare hidden on the bike, and one in my work bench. It cost me a whole $4.50. ou'd think for as much as the new ignition switch cost, they'd give you 5 or 6 keys.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange022.jpg

[eusa1]

you guys dont need to re-key or cut a key or use 2 keys or 2 sided keys!! all you have to do is remove the 2 smaller tamper proof heads on the sides of the ignition housing and swap the old cylinder to the new switch! it's easier than the big bolts that hold the housing to the frame!

use a small drill bit and an easy out on the old one first, and ya have nothing to lose.

mike

 

i still have the original key and my 3rd ignition at 160,000 miles

[eusa1]

I talked to two different lock smiths and they both said the same thing. Neither the ignition switch or the luggage/gas cap could be rekeyed.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange022.jpg

send me your ignition and your gas cap, i can re-key them, your lock smith is nuts!

i have a yamaha lock in my trailer that i keyed to match the bike about 10 years ago.

and no.... i'm not a locksmith, just hate to carry more crap than needed.

[MidlifeVenture]

Thought I read somewhere you can cut one side with one key and the other with the second key??

[eusa1]

True you can cut a different key on each side... But why not spen ten mins and use the same key for everything?

[straycatt]

Hmm, very interesting.

I did think about just swapping the old clyinder to the new switch. It's held on by just two phillips head screws, but my old cylinder is so worn and sticky it's probably not long for this world either.

 

I'm definetly going to do more research on the rekey issue. Though at this point the dual key setup doesn't seem like it's going to be a real big hardship. lol

[wes0778]

The lock on my right saddle bag is different from all the other locks, so I just had a key cut on one side for that lock and the other side cut for everything else. I cut a notch in the plastic, so I know which side of the key is for which lock, problem solved!!!

[Semi-retired]

On 6/15/2012 at 6:13 PM, eusa1 said:

you guys dont need to re-key or cut a key or use 2 keys or 2 sided keys!! all you have to do is remove the 2 smaller tamper proof heads on the sides of the ignition housing and swap the old cylinder to the new switch! it's easier than the big bolts that hold the housing to the frame!

use a small drill bit and an easy out on the old one first, and ya have nothing to lose.

mike

i still have the original key and my 3rd ignition at 160,000 miles

Thanks again for your time on the phone, yesterday, Mike
Just a couple of follow-ups here (for "everybody's" benefit)...
The comment you make above..."don't need to cut a key...(just) remove the 2 smaller heads...swap the old cylinder to the new switch...ya have nothing to lose"....that assumes....
a) that the "tumbler" portion of our old switch is in good/perfect shape, and
b) we don't mind accidentally drilling a hole in ANOTHER finger while performing the "pilot hole/easy-out" process as we did to get the entire assembly out of the bike initially. 

Speaking of which...I haven't seen it SAID anywhere..... but is it safe to assume that all FOUR of these bolts WERE installed from the TOP DOWN? (as opposed to "From the BOTTOM UP"....which is entirely possible. (It is, of course, critical to know this...IF we want to know whether turning CLOCKWISE or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE turns the easyouts.......OUT. 🙂 

Lastly, I saw someone comment, words to the effect, "What's the big deal carrying two keys around? One for the ignition switch and one for everything else?"

In response to this, I have a couple of comments:
1. I'm old enough to remember when most if not ALL vehicles HAD two keys...one for the ignition, and one for everything else....trunk lid, DOORS, glove compartment...and I WAS NO BIG DEAL.
2. Even NOW, my A4 Audi has a key FOB that, yes, is a more talented than a single key......but that SUCKER weighs as much as four or FIVE keys...and takes up the same amount of "space in pocket" as 4 or 5 keys....and no one (including me) complains about it.
3. Carrying ONE extra, 2 oz key around (attached on one of these newfangled things we call a "keyring") seems a small price to pay to have a COMPLETELY new ignition switch......one in which the LOCKING mechanism is as new as the electrical contacts portion....and that the tumbler, which (granted) MAY have been working.....BUT might ALSO fail....two weeks after I go to all the trouble to R&R it back into the bike. 
Why not just put in ALL NEW and "man up" enough muscle and pocket space to carry 2 little keys?

[Semi-retired]

On 6/16/2012 at 12:06 AM, straycatt said:

I'm definetly going to do more research on the rekey issue. Though at this point the dual key setup doesn't seem like it's going to be a real big hardship. lol

Agreed, Glenn.......on BOTH points...as per my comments below: 1. No big hardship, 2. The tumbler (according to Murphy's law) will ALSO fail, two weeks after you go to all the work of RE-installing the OLD one! 😞 

[Semi-retired]

NOW.....onto bigger and even MORE important things.......where can I obtain a "good condition" (NEW would be nice, but I'm not obsessed about it, depending on price) replacement ignition switch for my 2003 Midnight? (I'm in Canada, but I have a post office box in Niagara Falls, NY, so that improves my "continent wide" access.)

 

[BlueSky]

Have you checked ebay?  There is at least one used switch there but pricey.