KIC Posted December 31, 2011 Share #1 Posted December 31, 2011 So I need to do my front fork seals. I thought I lucked out when I found a new set of Pyramid seals and dust covers. Now I have heard to use only OEM seals. But I have also heard that OEM seals are a hit and miss too. So...in the spirit of starting an oil and/or tire type debate.. Should I use these or scrap them and buy different ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted December 31, 2011 Share #2 Posted December 31, 2011 Because I had them I would use them. I've also heard stories on both. Just making sure things are right when installed and keep tubes fairly clean. One of the 1st things I wipe down on those stops when the shield and a few things get wiped off. And keep a good coat of wax on them. Was told once you shouldn't wax tubes but he didn't know why??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted December 31, 2011 Share #3 Posted December 31, 2011 Because Just making sure things are right when installed and keep tubes fairly clean. You can damage any seal during installation if you're not careful. I cut the wrist lip off a nitrile glove and pull it over the end of the fork before installing the seals. Of course everything gets liberally lubed with new oil. Of course if the tubes are dirty or pitted your seal life will be limited. The seals are also useless if you put them in upside down. All balls seals I avoid like the plague. As far as I know they're not prone to leaking but they have been extremely difficult to install every time I've used them. I generally use K&L or oem seals. To my knowledge none has ever failed, but I won't put them on damaged tubes and am very careful during install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted December 31, 2011 Share #4 Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) OEMs are worth the extra $. Unless you know who supplies the OEM. Most leaks after a new seal is installed...is because there is a nick in the tube that we not noticed during replacement or other defects in the tube surface. FYI- fork seals I believe are double lipped seals. FYI- do NOT use "leak proof" brand seals = junk. Edited January 1, 2012 by jasonm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozlander Posted January 1, 2012 Share #5 Posted January 1, 2012 I get mt fork seals from a local bearing supplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted January 1, 2012 Share #6 Posted January 1, 2012 One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post and was just reminded of in another forum: If the fork bushings are shot the new seals will wear out fast. You need to put in new ones or make sure the old ones are in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam Posted January 1, 2012 Share #7 Posted January 1, 2012 I have been using automotive seals Pic's of the box the seal comes in are on my profile. Have had no issues wth them. They are easy to obtain in my area, and the price is good too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share #8 Posted January 2, 2012 One thing I forgot to mention in my earlier post and was just reminded of in another forum: If the fork bushings are shot the new seals will wear out fast. You need to put in new ones or make sure the old ones are in good shape. Where are, and how do you know if the bushings are "shot" ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted January 2, 2012 Share #9 Posted January 2, 2012 Where are, and how do you know if the bushings are "shot" ? The upper bushing is pressed into the lower fork tube just below the fork seal. The lower bushing is split and snaps into a channel at the bottom of the upper fork tube. I'm assuming you have the service manual. It's available in the tech library.......... When you disassemble the fork you are essentially using the inner tube as a slide hammer to pull the upper bushing. (Take very seriously the manual recommendation to not pound the tubes together during the back stroke, you can damage the anti dive). Once apart the bushings will be quite obvious hanging on the inner tube. I believe the service manual says to replace them if forks are disassembled. After you get the tubes separated you should realize you've just been hammering the bushings against each other and the replacement is a pretty darn good idea. The bushings are copper or brass with a PTFE coating. If you can see any of the metal through the PTFE on the inside of the upper bushing or the outside of the lower bushing they are worn out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncledj Posted January 2, 2012 Share #10 Posted January 2, 2012 Pyramid seals from e-bay wouldn't work on my 87. They're about 1/16" taller than the OEMs and it made it next to impossible to get the lock ring in. After several tries I compared them to the ones I took out, and saw the problem. Got another set from Bike bandit,...they were the same size as the originals, ...went right in. That was in July, and have had no problems yet. Good luck:banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share #11 Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks for the valuable insight. Appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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