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88 venture carb sync question


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OK, we are talking the plug connector going to the pick up coils, not ignition coils.

 

Meter is on Ohms scale, touch leads on meter together and see if meter reads zero.

 

Hook one lead to the Black wire in connector. Other lead is touched to each of the other 4 wires, one at a time, meter should read around 110 ohms.

 

Other 4 wire colors in connector are White, Gray, White/Green & White/Red. Not sure which one controls which coil, doesn't matter, they will be replaced as a set if bad.

 

Wiring diagrams are at link below if you haven't already found them. Simplified diagram is electrically the same as full diagram, it just is laid out easier due to connectors not shown.

 

Connector in question is at bottom of full wiring diagram, very near AC Generator. Trigger for these pickups is located on the rotor that powers generator.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 - main wiring thread

 

http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/88-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DU%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf - full wiring diagrm for an 88 Venture Royale.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/86-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf - simplified circuits for 88 Venture.

 

Gary

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If I am not getting any reading from the black wire, does that mean the igniter os bad, pick up coils are bad, or is there a ground wire that can be bad for the igniter or pick up coil?

 

NO reading to ground is good, the coils are not grounded, any reading would be bad.

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ok, put the carbs back on, now the bike starts, but bailey runs on choke. when i take it off of choke, stalls ut and I cant even give it throttle, stalls right out.

 

I know I am chiming in late. BUT-I have had my carbs off about 5 times in 3 years. Latest this week. Now mine are finally perfect. The first 2 times I hadn't set the floats correctly. Last time I found floats that were sinking due to age. If too high or sinking, the bike runs rich...which does not sound like your issue. Rich would require no choke and takes the gas at the slightest twist with massive increase in RPMS. Floats MUST be set with each carb PERFECTLY level. Using a mini-bubble level. Something many do not do.

Yours sounds lean. Which is clear, since originally would only run on choke. Is every carb getting gas? A float needle stuck closed is rare...but happens.But there are no short cuts here for carbs. Did you actually look through the pilot gas jet? Did you soak it in commercial carb cleaner? Did you replace ALL inside rubber plugs and needle jet o-rings and gaskets? The total of these parts alone is about $100. So if you have not spent any money on parts...you have not done yourself any favors. Here's a link..need parts 34,36, 46, 48 for basic servicing and possibly jets and bowl o-rings. I have ordered many parts from this site. They are good.It's a tedious job.

 

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=8391&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=1987&fveh=224

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A friend of mine is a manager at an electronic manufacturing company. He had on of the techs look at the TCI. They replaced a couple of resistors but said the board looks like it took a voltage spike and was no good. they gave me the TCI back to try. The bike wont even start, even got a back fire out of it. I am guessing that the TCI is no good and I need to get an new one. I am not sure whether to look for a used one or piurchase the one that Dingy recommends from overseas.

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A friend of mine is a manager at an electronic manufacturing company. He had on of the techs look at the TCI. They replaced a couple of resistors but said the board looks like it took a voltage spike and was no good. they gave me the TCI back to try. The bike wont even start, even got a back fire out of it. I am guessing that the TCI is no good and I need to get an new one. I am not sure whether to look for a used one or piurchase the one that Dingy recommends from overseas.

 

 

Dont bother with a used one its a gamble. I have one of the overseas ones and Im pretty happy with it. Needs a little fine tuning but I havent got around to it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

First I'm new member to VRO now back to 88 carbs; First do you have a factory service manual; if you don't get one they are more$ than say a climers but way more informative having said that after you get the bike running you want to sync the carbs with a merc stick

one carb it set from factory to be the base for the other 3 to sync to, this is not hard to do and you will notice a much smoother idle.ZMAN:322:

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I am a new member but have been lurking for about a week. I just wanted to say this website has really helped me. Especially this particular thread because I was having carb problems also. Thanks to all of you who share your experience and knowledge. I will be on here alot researching and studying.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

Ed :)

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I am a new member but have been lurking for about a week. I just wanted to say this website has really helped me. Especially this particular thread because I was having carb problems also. Thanks to all of you who share your experience and knowledge. I will be on here alot researching and studying.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

Ed :)

 

 

Could be the best 12 bucks you will ever spend. WELCOME!!!

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Just want to add my thanks to my fellow Venturers for helping in solving carb problems for those of us at our wits end. I haven't had time to work on mine yet but I am printing out the tips and hope to find the solution in them. Thanks again for all of you who take the time to assist with your past experiences.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My bike still won't run off of full choke. I opened the air box and looked down into the carbs and adjusted the throttle plates to just be cracked open starting with matching number one to number two, then three and four alike. I assume that when they are all in sync that the idle speed will adjust all four carbs the same. Question: In the airbox there is a tube that is connected to a rubber hose leading downward to the engine. Is that hose in the airbox just left open without being attached to anything?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Is there another source for diaphragms beside ebay? They want $330.!

 

When I got my 87 last yr I started having problems after about a week. Shop removed gas tank and, as it had lots of rust in it(tank is steel!) they put in a bunch of screws, bolts and whatever and, rinse and repeat! 3 & 4 times! They said the amount of crap they cleaned out was amazing!

 

$600 bucks later and did not get 3 days out of it! They had not cleaned the lines to the carb from the tank nor did they switch out the fuel filter! Dorks! Plus on ride home, bike on trailer, they had forgotten to put rubber hold down on side fairing! Was flapping in the wind on trailer!

 

And the story continued. As there was a leaking valve cover gasket I decide to shampoo the engine. Got it nice and clean, wouldn't start. Messed around, flushed carbs w/cleaner to no avail. Brought it to another shop(had told other one that I would not let them tune up my electric trolling motor) they got a engine control unit from Yamaha in Toronto(they quoted me $1000!) but was a broken lead to the control unit, therefore no spark.

 

I wanted a set of summer riding gloves but they would not throw in, bill was $550, nor would they give me a deal on $39 gloves! I know that they pay the techs only $15/17/hr! Will be using this forum a lot to do my own work! :lightbulb:

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  • 1 month later...

I have been wondering about the condition om my diaphrams, I don't see any pinholes but they are original and I am having carb problems. I have the airbox off and when I reach down with a tool to manually move the slides back one is very sluggish in coming back compared to the others. The other three move back fairly quickly. What is the normal movement?

Thanks.

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