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New Venture Wish List


Steveb1959

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I dont know if anyone else is interested in this or not, but here goes. There are almost 12,000 members on this board. Does yamaha monitor this forum? If not they should. Here is a group that not only owns these bikes but take the time to share their ideas. The 2nd generation Venture is basically the same as 12 years ago, it's got to be time for an update. I love a lot of things about my bike but would like to see some modernizing. So I will offer my ideas. I welcome challenges to my opinions and input from others. maybe Yamaha will keep some of these ideas in mind when they develope the next generation. here is a start:

 

ADD Fuel Injection. Improve economy (A BMW with the same weight and displacement can get 55 MPGs). Better cold starts. No more cleaning carbs. Etc, etc…

 

Hydraulic Valves. No more adjusting. Longevity.

 

ABS. Safety. Insurance rates.

 

Linked Brakes. Safety. Insurance Rates.

 

Adjustable Windshield. Ala BMW and Kawasaki. Because they are awesome!

 

Adjustable Handlebars. They just don’t fit everyone.

 

3rd Brakelight. Safety. Insurance rates.

 

Tachometer. Self Explanitory.

 

Other Guages. Nice to have. Temp, Volts, Air Pressure.

 

Gear Indicator. The bike is quiet. When I ride next to Harleys I forget which gear I am in. The Tachometer will help with this also.

 

On board Air Compressor. Can adjust suspension. Have air for flats. (If not an onboard compressor at least link the front and then rear shock air system together so they can be equally adjusted)

 

No Roll Back Clutch. Subaru used to make one. This is a heavy bike. Loaded down with passenger and luggage, in traffic, on a hill sometimes it is a monster to take off. It must be able to be disengaged with a thumb button right next to the clutch lever so the bike can be moved around a parking lot. This will give you something the competition does not offer.

 

Delete Cassette Player. Self Explanitory

 

Keep V-4 .Everyone has a twin.

Seat. The best stock one out there IMHO

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I'll add my input.

 

Agree with you on these ones:

ADD Fuel Injection.

 

Tachometer.

 

Other Gauges. Temp, Volts.

 

Delete Cassette Player.

ADD THESE:

 

Handle bar choke lever

 

Clock with its own spot - NOT part of the odometer.

 

Dual display - Odometer AND trip meter.

 

Available accessories made to fit this bike such as: Arm rests, passenger highway pegs, different backrests for both passenger and driver.

 

Cigarette lighter accessory port and/or USB port that only work when bike is running (so battery doesn't run down)

 

Accessory port (such as it is now) but like all new cars that CHARGES your accessory you plugged in while the bike is running.

 

Leave slot to put MP3 player/iPod into for safekeeping while driving.

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Huh? What's a 1st Gen MKII???

 

 

Check out the "VENTURE HISTORY" tab at the top of the page. It will explain it all.

 

OK....I was wrong....it doesn't explain.(now there's a surprise!)

 

so I'll explain.....

 

 

1st gen is 83-93

Mk I is 83 to 85

MkII is 85 -93

 

 

2nd gen is 94 and up

 

I THINK!!!!!

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Check out the "VENTURE HISTORY" tab at the top of the page. It will explain it all.

 

OK....I was wrong....it doesn't explain.(now there's a surprise!)

 

so I'll explain.....

 

 

1st gen is 83-93

Mk I is 83 to 85

MkII is 85 -93

 

 

2nd gen is 94 and up

 

I THINK!!!!!

 

Thank you!!!!!!!! :You_Rock_Emoticon:

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I agree with most of the updates, but not the linked brakes. There are times (Slippery surfaces) when I prefer to be able to use the back brake only to reduce the risk of a wheel locking up. Rear wheel lock up means some fishtailing and a reasonably good chance of avoiding a fall. Front wheel lock up usually means you fall down! Also, given the number of posts from people looking for repairs to their air compressor on 1st gens, do we really want to bring back that complexity? Set it and check it once in a while with that nice progressive air pump.

 

Andy

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I agree with most of the updates, but not the linked brakes. There are times (Slippery surfaces) when I prefer to be able to use the back brake only to reduce the risk of a wheel locking up. Rear wheel lock up means some fishtailing and a reasonably good chance of avoiding a fall. Front wheel lock up usually means you fall down! Also, given the number of posts from people looking for repairs to their air compressor on 1st gens, do we really want to bring back that complexity? Set it and check it once in a while with that nice progressive air pump.

 

Andy

 

supposedly with ABS wheel lockup is prevented.

 

I agree that built in air compressor isn't needed.

 

another nice to have is a rear wheel that can be easily removed from one side only ala BMW. Requires a center stand to do this on the road though.

 

I'm perfectly happy with a 1300cc 98hp engine. I don't need to ride over 120mph.

 

55mpg would probably tempt me to buy new.

 

keep the 5 year warranty and design in ease of self maintenance.

 

I'm surprised no one mentioned to have a beefed up rear shock?

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You're right about ABS but....most ABS systems cut out when the vehicle drops below a certain speed, which is when the lockup can occur. For example, coming to a stop on that road that turned to gravel unexpectedly. The ABS cuts out during the last few feet and that's when you discover that you were squeezing hard enough to lock the wheel. Don't ask how I know this!

 

The rear shock works fine but by all accounts, has an early failure rate due to its design. What I would want is a better quality rear shock that lasts longer.

 

Andy

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I agree that built in air compressor isn't needed.

Requires a center stand to do this on the road though.

keep the 5 year warranty .

I'm surprised no one mentioned to have a beefed up rear shock?

 

More 1st gen features, with the exeption of the warranty. The non Royale version, did not have the compressor, or a radio.

Rarely, does a 1st gen rear shock fail. I have only heard of 2 since being on this site.

 

:stirthepot:

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Linked brakes wouldn't be bad if grabbing the front brake lever activated the front and rear, however I would want the pedal for the rear brake to be unlinked so that I could use rear brake only in those times I'm on a slick surface.

 

I really want fuel injection and a tach. And valves that didn't need adjusting would be wonderful. All in all, though we have a great bike it just really needs some refinements to bring it into the 21'st century.

 

Oh and a redesigned front faring would be great, I'm sorry guys but that thing is fugly. Looks like a big beach ball stuck on the front end. I try to only look at my bike from the side.:whistling:

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Linked brakes wouldn't be bad if grabbing the front brake lever activated the front and rear, however I would want the pedal for the rear brake to be unlinked so that I could use rear brake only in those times I'm on a slick surface.

 

I think BMW does this.

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I agree with most of the updates, but not the linked brakes. There are times (Slippery surfaces) when I prefer to be able to use the back brake only to reduce the risk of a wheel locking up. Rear wheel lock up means some fishtailing and a reasonably good chance of avoiding a fall. Front wheel lock up usually means you fall down! Also, given the number of posts from people looking for repairs to their air compressor on 1st gens, do we really want to bring back that complexity? Set it and check it once in a while with that nice progressive air pump.

 

Andy

I thought about not adding the linked brakes because of this issue. I think it can be made workable by either having it cut out under 5MPH and/or not having the foot brake pedal linked. Compressors are cheap and I like being able to change suspension settings as conditions change without having to manually pump shocks. It also ensures the front tubes are set to the same PSI on both sides. But as I said up front, if no onboard compressor at least make the air fill valve in front service both tubes at the same time. I like the feedback!

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Along with all the other "ideas", the ONE thing I'd like is a motor that doesn't sound like every internal component is going to rattle itself to pieces (a bit of an eggzagerashun). Let's have an engine that is quiet like a GW or for that matter, a Harley.

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Tachometer. Self Explanitory.

 

Other Guages. Nice to have. Temp, Volts, Air Pressure.

 

 

It's not self-explanatory to me. A tachometer is about as useful as a propellor on top of my helmet. What would you use it for? You don't really want to watch a meter to tell you when to shift, do you? If that's the case, then what you really want is automatic transmission.

 

I don't need a water or oil temp gauge because my bike always works. If the bike were unreliable, then I would need gauges and lights to tell me when it was about to break down, so I could seek shelter. The RSV is highly reliable, so I would never look at the monotonous everything-is-just-fine indicators anyway. The only reason I want a voltmeter is because the RSV has too little capacity. Beef up the electrical system and forget the meter.

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I pretty much agree with what has been said here.

Keep the bike basically as it is. Keep the V4.

Just bring it into the 21st century.

Increase horsepower by ten to fifteen percent.

Fuel Injection, Anti-Loc brakes etc. (w/o linking).

Improved gauges, more lighting. etc, anti-dive forks.

Improve quality of what is already there.

More than one model. From a plain version to fully dressed.

More than one color choice.

 

Mike

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I don't need a water or oil temp gauge because my bike always works.

 

If you have an oil gauge or temperature gauge, you have lots of warning that something is wrong with your bike. :happy34: Otherwise, the idiot light comes on and you better be able to stop RIGHT AWAY or you will damage the engine. :mad: THAT is why gauges are always preferred to idiot lights, IMHO. :happy34:

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If you have an oil gauge or temperature gauge, you have lots of warning that something is wrong with your bike. :happy34: Otherwise, the idiot light comes on and you better be able to stop RIGHT AWAY or you will damage the engine. :mad: THAT is why gauges are always preferred to idiot lights, IMHO. :happy34:

 

Actually I prefer both. Gauges won't usually get your attention until something else does. Then they will help you figure out what is going on. Warning lights on the other hand will get your attention very quickly. So I prefer both. Warning lights come on and tell me to scan the gauges because all is not well.

Mike

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Gauges won't usually get your attention until something else does.

 

Well, if you're a conscientious driver, you glance at your gauges often as you drive and would notice if the temp started rising or the oil gauge was creeping up. Like I said, once the lights come on, it's often too late. If you have gauges, you notice it's creeping up, you take care of it BEFORE it becomes a problem.

 

That's just the way I see it. :2cents:

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