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To fix it right you need to pull the carbs, tear them down, clean, and then rebuild and reinstall. This is easier said than done because you will no doubt find ancillary parts (hose clamps, fuel lines, vacuum lines, hose clamps, etc.) that need to be replaced.

 

Once the carbs are back in you need to get them synchronized and adjust fuel/air mixtures and engine idle RPM.

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Hey Rick,

Give this a try, Start the bike with the choke on, let the bike warm up, Ease the choke off a bit until the RPM's start to fall below 1000 RPM's. Turn the Idle Adjust Thumb Screw Clock Wise to bring the RPM's back up to 1000 RPM's. Back off on the Choke a bit more, Adjust the Idle Set Screw again, and so on, until the bike is running with NO CHOKE, at 1000 RPM's, warmed up. I have attached a pic of the Idle Adjust Thumb Screw. If the bike still will not run with no choke, then add Seafoam to the fuel tank, get it to run with the choke on, and run the heck out of it! (Freeway on ramps are my Fav!) Let is sit over night, and run the heck out of it again! Bu the time you have burned up that tank of gas you will know for certain if a good Carb. Cleaning/ Rebuild is in order. Many times this will clear up this problem, many times it will not. It is worth a try.:confused24:

Earl

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aren't pilot jets for air?

 

Regardless... they all have to be clean for them to work right... It got me to thinking: uh oh watch out

 

On a 2nd Gen...

 

1. Diaphrams can be cleaned without taking carbs off...

 

2. IF... one took the air box off of carbs there are holes in the top inside of the circular carb body where one could insert a carb cleaner tube. Which jets are affected in doing this?

Where I'm heading with this is, if you loosen the carb drain screw(s) and spray carb cleaner in these holes you may not have to take carbs all the way off... as the foreign matter will be ejected through the drain hole.

 

Can't remember which jets the spray came out of

Edited by CaptainJoe
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