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cracked saddlebag


Sideoftheroad

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I hope it came out ok. Just a thought if the kids are climbing on the bike and climbing and stepping on the bag lids that could be were your crack started. I can see mine at that age trying it and jumping off or on them not good for the bags. Just be careful I would hate to see that bike fall on one of them and them get hurt.

 

If I dont talk to you have a goodtime at star and be safe!

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Thanks Kevin. Like you said maybe it was already there started and just by kids climbing on it, could have got it going. Who knows. I guess I need to stop trying to figure out how it happened and move along w/ repairs. What is done is done (however it was done), can't help it now, even though not so thrilled with it having happened.

 

Went out this morning to take a look. I guess pipe cement doesn't like paint too well as it was actually breaking off in sections when I got under it with the new razor blade. Might have helped that I spot cleaned it a couple days before. Maybe that is why Goose said to wait until it cures as it may not adhere to paint very well. I just did a couple spots. I think it will turn out ok. There will be a few spots that will be a challenge as they are really thin.

 

If I am not mistaken I think I can get some touch up pens from places like colorrite. Anyone know?

 

Tonight I am going to take the bag off and do the underside by the mount as it has a pretty long crack too from the mount, to the side going almost all the way back.

 

Whatever happened, it sure was a doozy.

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Like you mentioned the ends of the cracks and some other hairline cracks are still there and not glued. So you have weak spots just looking for a bump in the road to get the crack growing again.

Once you get everything glued with the ABS cement that you can, I would still rough up the inside with some coarse sandpaper and lay down some epoxy and heavy fiberglass cloth (you can use several layers of lighter cloth if that's all you have). I would use strips 2 inches wide. Coat the area with the epoxy then lay the cloth onto the epoxy and work it into the epoxy till the cloth is thoroughly saturated, you may need to add more epoxy. Remember the epoxy does not add any strength, it just holds down the glass cloth, the cloth is what adds the strength, so make sure that the cloth is worked down good to be in contact with the bag. I usually use a squeegee as the final thing to make sure the cloth is down good and smooth with no air bubbles underneath.

Once you get the glass and epoxy layered up then you can paint the inside if the look of the glass cloth bothers you.

 

Note; You can cleanup any epoxy fingerprints or or other mess with alcohol before the epoxy has cured. NO NOT brandy. The brandy is for after the glassing to keep you company while you watch the glue dry.

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Yeah, I know we are getting off the beaten path now, but if you look at the rails in the pic you can see they are chewed. He has decided one side of railing isn't good enough so she is doing the other side now. We have some cutup wood in the back. She likes that for her dog bone now. She will pull a peice from the pile by the shed, bring it up to the patio and start chewing away. She's got some pretty strong chompers. I could name countless other things she has done. She fits right in w/ our Bischon who single pawedly tore up our back yard.

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I am just setting here reading this thread and one of the second set of pics caught my attention. Being as paint is kinda my thing, my first thought was what is making the paint turn loose around this mount. That looks an awfully lot like a cemical reaction of some sort. If it was on my jobsite I would have sworn some type of thinner or stripper had been spilled.

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I am just setting here reading this thread and one of the second set of pics caught my attention. Being as paint is kinda my thing, my first thought was what is making the paint turn loose around this mount. That looks an awfully lot like a cemical reaction of some sort. If it was on my jobsite I would have sworn some type of thinner or stripper had been spilled.
I have no idea how I missed that post with the second set of pictures, but I absolutely agree with you. There is no doubt at all that some sort of a chemical reaction was going on in that picture. I don't know why anyone would use Locktite on those bolts, but that would have done it.

 

I will also say that if something like Locktite was used and attacked the plastic, then any repair is questionable. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

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Yeah, I know we are getting off the beaten path now, but if you look at the rails in the pic you can see they are chewed. He has decided one side of railing isn't good enough so she is doing the other side now. We have some cutup wood in the back. She likes that for her dog bone now. She will pull a peice from the pile by the shed, bring it up to the patio and start chewing away. She's got some pretty strong chompers. I could name countless other things she has done. She fits right in w/ our Bischon who single pawedly tore up our back yard.

 

Nothing is safe in my house from my pups! :mad:

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I haven't used locktite on those bolts, but are you saying locktite could have caused the paint peeling and/or the cracks?

 

I finished last night. Removed the bag from the bike. Took everything off the bag, like the lid, hinges, that L shaped metal bracket. Found out one of the tabs that holds the metal bracket broke too. I decided to go ahead and put pipe cement on the inside where those spider cracks are. Not sure if it will help, but certainly can't hurt either.

 

Also got all the excess scraped off from the outside crack. Did end up scratching a couple spots, but I believe it can buff out.

 

You can definetly tell there is a crack there. I am sure I will get alot of comments like hey did you know your saddlebag is cracked.....The day I bought my VTX (just like the Venture) it has a hose sticking out from the bottom. Lady pulled up and told me about it. That having been my very 1st bike, I turned around and asked the dealer about it. Yup supposed to be there. :-) At least people look out for you like that.

 

I am sure it will hold up. I will keep an eye on it. Maybe for winter, I can get it repainted.

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I haven't used locktite on those bolts, but are you saying locktite could have caused the paint peeling and/or the cracks?

Yes, LockTite will destroy ABS plastic - kinda like a rot. I cannot say for sure that it would cause the paint to react like that, but I have a test going on now. If something started attacking the plastic around the mounting hole, then I would not be surprised at all for a crack to start there.

 

As long as the plastic was not attacked by some chemical that altered the composition, a repair with the ABS solvent is every bit as strong as the original. Here is an example - if you have ever removed the front cowlings, you know those lugs on the bottom that plug into the rubber grommets are quite hard to pull out. You often have to pull on them so hard you are sure the plastic is going to break. Well, I have put two of those lugs back on the cowlings with this method and nothing else, and they have never broken off again over several years and repeated removals.

 

You can repair hairline cracks fairly well by using a metal pick to scratch along the crack and work the solvent in that way, mixing with the surface plastic as it dissolves. For an even stronger repair of a crack that you cannot pull apart, you can cut a V groove about 1/2 way through the plastic, saving the shavings. Then you can mix those shavings with a little MEK solvent (thinner than the pipe cement) and work it back into the groove.

Goose

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This is what I used to completly rebuild all the smashed plastic on my bike after my accident in 2008. I even made one good panel out of two bad ones with it, and reassembled pieces like a jigsaw puzzel.

http://plastex.net/ use fiberglass cloth to reinforce on the inside. You also do not need to use spot filler because this stuff does it all it will sand as smooth as the original. P/S don't worry about praportions the stuff is idiot proof, and if you fold a piece of cellephane tape over your finger it smooths out real nice.

 

I agree. Plastex is great stuff and works particular well on these types of cracks because it’s so thin. It has the viscosity of acetone so it will wick into the tightest of cracks. The kits also come with black, white and clear filler if required. The solvent itself is clear. I’m familiar with other glues and this stuff is so very handy to have around and has a great shelf life.

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On my old '81 GW, I had a serious crack in the trunk lid, was able to use ABS glue for the repair and it looked good and strong, but to make sure there would be no future problem I took a piece of ABS plastic and glued it to the inside over the crack as a patch. Was able to shape the patch piece by using some heat as the surface was curved. Never had any more problem and the patch was very strong and I tried hard to break it apart. I also used shavings of ABS to fill in the outside seam, then sanded the area for new paint. When all said and done you could not tell from the outside there was ever a crack and the only thing giving away there may have been a problem was the patch inside. Lasted for years and to this day continues to not be a problem for he guy that bought the bike.

Good Luck.

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was just thinking as someone mentioned brake fluid as a possible culprit of the flaking paint. Isnt the rear brake near that side if the saddle bag? If so maybey you might want to check and make sure you didnt have a small brake line or fitting leak that may have sprayed on the bag. Not sure but just a suggestion.

 

 

David

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Well rear brake was recently swapped out by the dealer. Maybe he mech didn't wipe of his hands and might have had some on his hands when he put the bag back on? Will check the rear brake resevoir to see if it is down as I don't see any fluids on any other part of the bike around the rear brake. Have to check that stuff anyway for the upcoming trip.

 

Also not sure if that would explain the crack/peeling paint on the opposite side of the brake (side facing out). I would expect that to be on the side closest to the brake. I also don't think it would explain the crack in the rear of the saddlebag or all the other spider cracks along the bottom edges towards the outside.

 

Sometimes you just never know though. Seems like once it got started, the whole bag wanted to fall apart.

 

I did ask the dealer if they used locktite on those bolts. They said no, they take the bolts out of our scoots too often to do that.

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Holy Crap!!!! When it rains it pours. Ok switching gears a bit.

 

So took the bike to work. Went out during lunch to look at something on the bike and to me the front brake resevoir window was about 1/4 full. So I took it to the dealer after work (I am gonna start calling them stealers now). They said something about looks like someone topped the fluid off w/ a different color than what was originally used so you have an illusion (my word) that it is not full but what you are seeing is a line created by the 2 different colors not mixing together (kinda like what you would see with oil & water trying to me-again my analogy). They did also mention that when brake pads get worn, the pistons push in further so some of the fluid will go down in the resevoir.

 

I asked them if there was any type of compression test that can be done to make sure the fluid is holding and no leaks. They said no. Is this true?

 

Was getting ready to leave and asked them if they did check the rear resevoir. They didn't so he just wiggled it a bit and says he can see the fluid moving and all looks good.

 

So get home tonight, put her on the center stand and it has sat for 6 hrs now. I wanted to check it out for myself. I took off the front resevoir cap off 1st and it's full. I next pulled that black cover off the rear resevoir and unscrewed the cap. Either I am completely missing something or I have another issue on hand. The rear resevoir was completely empty, I mean not a drop. I am pretty sure this is not normal, correct? Is it supposed to be empty (I really don't believe that but gotta ask) and maybe as the bike warms up you should see fluid in the resevoir. I think some cars work that way with radiators and reserve bottles???

 

As far as braking goes, I haven't noticed anything, seems to be functioning normally but certainly am not going to take my chances.

 

So could be something to brake fluid getting on that saddlebag, but crap you really can't trust anyone. Really need someone here in Indy to show me how to do my own maintenance like own brake fluid changes. Certain things I can do myself like oil changes and have read how to do things like brake fluid changes, but honestly would rather someone that is knowledgable watch me do it to make sure I do things correctly.

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Dont know about brake fluid cracking the plastic, but the res. should NOT be empty, now, when you fill it up, you will need to bleed the brakes, with the fluid that low you probably have air in the system now. Should be some one close to give ya a hand, there is nothing to it once you are shown one time, or do like I did and take step by step pics as I took things apart, and either go to the site or give some one a call... we are here to help.. I think I would stay away from that stealer though..what a jackwad... good luck.

 

K

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Well, you certainly have a big problem with the rear brake. The master cylinder should never be empty. Period. Since you said someone recently replaced the rear caliper (or did you just mean the pads?), it would seem likely that some moron mucked it up.

 

Missing fluid certainly seems like a prime suspect for that paint damage under your bag, too.

 

As for the asinine statement about two different colored fluids in the front brakes - the stupid fool that would say something like that shouldn't be allowed to even wipe up dog spit - they do not have the technical skills for such a complicated job.

 

Unfortunately, I cannot tell you if you have nothing to worry about or a huge major problem with the front brakes now. Let's start with the easy one. How were you checking the level? The top of the master cylinder must be level to do this. Generally the front brake master cylinder will be level if the bars are turned to the left while on the side stand. So maybe you just saw it look low because it was not level?

 

You did say that you checked the fluid by removing the cap, and it was full, so that takes me to the concern about possible big problem. The only grain of truth in what the idiot said about two different fluids would be if someone added DOT5 fluid - BIG NO NO! Because I have never actually tried to mix them, I cannot say for sure how that would look, but I do know that it totally messes up the entire brake system, and usually destroys the rubber seals. So if this moron actually believed that someone did that, then even a mental midget with 59 IQ couldn't have just dismissed it and said everything is fine. Of course I am saying all those disparaging things about that fool BECAUSE he is supposed to be someone who knows these things, not an untrained wino looking to hook up in the vegetable isle of the local grocery store.

 

Unfortunately, it sounds to me like the bare minimum you can do right now is a complete flush of both brake systems. And more likely you will need to do a rebuild of all the movable parts.

Goose

Edited by V7Goose
Correct stupid mmistake on how to check fluid level
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Dont know about brake fluid cracking the plastic, but the res. should NOT be empty, now, when you fill it up, you will need to bleed the brakes, with the fluid that low you probably have air in the system now. Should be some one close to give ya a hand, there is nothing to it once you are shown one time, or do like I did and take step by step pics as I took things apart, and either go to the site or give some one a call... we are here to help.. I think I would stay away from that stealer though..what a jackwad... good luck.

 

K

 

 

Dang Jerry,

 

I like this dealership alot. Have had some good luck with the service department as well.

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