Just got my new HID headlight.

[mike_kelly_68]

Thanks for the interesting blow-by-blow description. As I contemplate putting this on my RSTD, I have a couple questions....

 

I don't have a fancy fairing to hide the ballast and igniter. My headlamp bucket is pretty cramped already, so I reckon that I'd have to put it under the tank or in that area. Is there enough slack wire between the ballast or igniter and the bulb to accommodate the forks turn lock to lock?

 

I guess I've not paid attention to computer problems. Is this an issue also with 2nd Gens?

 

Dave

 

 

Dave,

 

Just installed mine on and RSV and the pig tail is very short, just enough to install under the fairing. The wiring to the lamp consists of four wires. You could extend them (cut and Splice behind the lamp.

[BuddyRich]

Its the hi amperage draw of the starter. The voltage drops way down when you hit the starter and the light had just started its ignition. It cannot maintain the high voltage needed to keep it lite so it goes out. I have a relay and a direct feed from the battery. If I leave the switch on sometimes the light stays lite other times it doesn't.

[BuddyRich]

Dave,

 

Just installed mine on and RSV and the pig tail is very short, just enough to install under the fairing. The wiring to the lamp consists of four wires. You could extend them (cut and Splice behind the lamp.

 

The thicker leads going to the lamp are very high voltage wire. If you do this get a set of voltmeter leads and use those with 2 or 3 layers of heatshrink where you make the splices. Then you should be safe from any arcing. I did this for my passing lamps and put the ballast in the fairing

[mike_kelly_68]

Buddy,

 

What did you wind up using for your passing lamps?

[Flyinfool]

Its the hi amperage draw of the starter. The voltage drops way down when you hit the starter and the light had just started its ignition. It cannot maintain the high voltage needed to keep it lite so it goes out. I have a relay and a direct feed from the battery. If I leave the switch on sometimes the light stays lite other times it doesn't.

 

That may be true for the 2nd gens but on the 1st gen the headlight is actually switched off by a second set of contacts in the start button while cranking.

 

I kind of like Brian's idea with the relays.

Not difficult to implement, no chance of forgetting to turn it on, and will keep the light off while working on the bike in the back yard.

 

I will post the final circuit one I have it all drawn up and prove to myself that it works good.

[Dave77459]

Dave,

 

Just installed mine on and RSV and the pig tail is very short, just enough to install under the fairing. The wiring to the lamp consists of four wires. You could extend them (cut and Splice behind the lamp.

 

Thanks for he feedback and suggestion. There's a couple RSTD's fixin' to install these, and I'll wait until I see their experience.

 

The thicker leads going to the lamp are very high voltage wire. If you do this get a set of voltmeter leads and use those with 2 or 3 layers of heatshrink where you make the splices. Then you should be safe from any arcing. I did this for my passing lamps and put the ballast in the fairing

 

I think I understand what you are saying. Where does one get voltmeter leads? Radio Shack?

 

Dave

[mike_kelly_68]

Radio Shack might have them, you might also try an electrical supply, Graybar, Raybro, City Electric...

[BuddyRich]

Mike, I have always had 4.5 inch headlights as my passing lamps so I had 3 hi/lo beams. I tried some 5.25 headlights on there for a while. The HID bulbs would fit in them and worked but the headlights were just too big for my taste. So I went back to my 4.5 inch headlights with PIAA H4's in them. When I hit my hi beams at night I CAN SEE pretty good.

[mike_kelly_68]

I just picked a H3 lamp from HF, did not realize it but it was

 

http://images.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/93900-93999/93904.gif

 

ITEM 93904-6VGA

 

$12.99

 

Removed the housing and found H3 lamp inside. 55w

 

4.5 inch direct fit. only bought 1 try. Will post pics later.

[BuddyRich]

These have hi/lo and look pretty good. They are 78 a piece but are worth the price if you ask me. The forth and fifth wires are for a parking lamp bulb.

 

http://www.chopperscycle.com/LIGHTING/Headlight-Assemblies/Chrome-Scalloped-4-12-p7739396.html

 

 

http://a763.g.akamai.net/7/763/1644/3/app.infopia.com/img/image/fp/VPID/7739396/extra/1/size/250

[wes0778]

There are several ways I can think of...but this method occurs to me:

 

Use a small, self-energizing relay that would be triggered off of the neutral light. Wire this first relay so that it provides GROUND to the 2nd relay. Start the bike in neutral, light will be off. Drop it into first gear, and the headlight comes on. Self-energizing relay will hold the circuit engaged even if the bike is returned to neutral anytime during the ride. You would have to use 2 relays, one a small relay in parallel with the neutral lamp, and the second a much heavier relay, and wire the second one so that once it is engaged, it STAYS engaged, with one set of contacts used to apply current to its OWN coil once the contacts are closed. Of course once the ignition is shut off, the relays would need to be disengaged, and this could be done with the second relay receiving its energizing current thru the acc circuit.

 

Most of us start our bikes in neutral most of the time, right?

 

 

How 'bout using a normally open oil pressure switch to turn on the "heavier" relay???

[painterman67]

just orderd a hid. Now Im scared. I forgot about the computer so now Im sceerd. After reading this I realize I have no idea what your talking about. So I may just install this kit on my wifes shadow and leave it at that.

 

Im no mechanic and all that electrical writeup confused me.

 

 

David

[Guest tx2sturgis]

How 'bout using a normally open oil pressure switch to turn on the "heavier" relay???

Thats another option...the only negative I see there is if for some reason you need the headlight on but the bike wont start...of course you could always add a manual switch to overide the pressure sensor.

 

Hmmm.....

[painterman67]

just talked to the owner of http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/. This is where I orderd my set. I explained the the computer problem and he told me to get a set of 6 ohm load resisters and wire them inline on the bike side of theoriginal h4 female plug . Says this has worked for several peaple ,as he has ran into this problem with a few didge trucks and cars with computer s that moniter the headlihgt bulbs.

 

 

Hope this works as mine shipped out today and all that other stuff is confusing as h#ll to me. Also I read about putting a switch to shut down the lights until you crank the bike. I would like to know how to do this anyways as I have had a few times that it would have come in handy to be able to move the bike without the light on.IE when times that I am pulling into and out of motels and the like and dont want to bother other peaple.

 

 

David

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I suppose another option would be a relay triggered off the sidestand switch...with or without the second relay...but you would need to leave the stand down when you start the bike...something I dont normally do.

 

[Flyinfool]

just talked to the owner of http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/. This is where I orderd my set. I explained the the computer problem and he told me to get a set of 6 ohm load resisters and wire them inline on the bike side of theoriginal h4 female plug . Says this has worked for several peaple ,as he has ran into this problem with a few didge trucks and cars with computer s that moniter the headlihgt bulbs.

 

 

Hope this works as mine shipped out today and all that other stuff is confusing as h#ll to me. Also I read about putting a switch to shut down the lights until you crank the bike. I would like to know how to do this anyways as I have had a few times that it would have come in handy to be able to move the bike without the light on.IE when times that I am pulling into and out of motels and the like and dont want to bother other peaple.

 

 

David

 

NOOooooo

You do not want to add a pair of load resistors for the HID headlight on a bike.

The 6 ohm load resistor will pull around 30 watts of power from a system that does not have much power to spare. It is fine on something like a car or truck that have huge alternators to supply lots of power.

You will want to use some form of switched circuit either a simple on off switch or a relay that would be automatic.

 

I am not yet fully decided which way I will go yet.

I am a member of the KISS fan club so you be assured that I will find a simple and effective solution to share.

 

The mods are not as hard as they sound.

Now that I know what to do I could do it in less time than it took to do all of that typing.

Just listen to the advice of those that have done it.

It is worth the effort.

And you know that we will help you thru any issues.

[painterman67]

now what telling he was telling me was it wouldnt pull that much power it would just fool the system into thinking it was pulling that much power........... now Im really confused.

 

 

I dont even know what all those terminologies are that was posted earlier much less where to find them.

 

 

Might just sell it and forget about it.

 

 

David

[Squeeze]

I had the Idea of building a Rectifier out of 6 Diodes and ran a 24 Volt Relay on the DC Output of the Rectifier. The Input comes from the the AC Wires out of the Stator. That makes the Relay only hot when the Stator is producing enough Voltage to make the Relay engage. You'll need a seventh Diode to save the Relay Coil from being freid by reverse Current and probably a Capacitor to even out the Voltage waves. Never tried it, but it should work. Current draw should be minimal.

 

My '09 Vmax switches the Light on when the Motor is running, but keeps it on when you use Stop Sitch. Never looked into the System which they use.

[tsigwing]

Thanks for he feedback and suggestion. There's a couple RSTD's fixin' to install these, and I'll wait until I see their experience.

 

 

 

I think I understand what you are saying. Where does one get voltmeter leads? Radio Shack?

 

Dave

 

I installed mine today, it was SIMPLE. The kit makes plugging everything very easy. The hardest part is running the power wire back to the battery. See posts here for pictures.

[Flyinfool]

Dang this headlight is bright!

 

OK.

 

I think I have the relay circuit figured out so that the head light will not come on till I shift out of neutral. For this to work the bike must be in neutral before I turn on the ignition. any time the power is on and the bike is out of neutral the headlight will turn on and stay on till the ignition is turned off.

 

For those that want to play with the circuit simulator it is located HERE, and I have included the text file of this circuit to import.

To import this file just click File>Import, and then copy-paste the contents of this text file into the window. Now you can play with the switches and watch the current flow animation.

 

Now I just need to spec out and acquire the relays that I will use.

 

More to come as I build this.

 

Did I mention that this light is BRIGHT, I like it, and it is well worth any hassles along the way.

 

 

 

44804.txt

Edited May 20, 2018 by Freebird

[Dave77459]

Dang this headlight is bright!

 

OK.

 

I think I have the relay circuit figured out so that the head light will not come on till I shift out of neutral. For this to work the bike must be in neutral before I turn on the ignition. any time the power is on and the bike is out of neutral the headlight will turn on and stay on till the ignition is turned off.

 

For those that want to play with the circuit simulator it is located HERE, and I have included the text file of this circuit to import.

To import this file just click File>Import, and then copy-paste the contents of this text file into the window. Now you can play with the switches and watch the current flow animation.

 

Now I just need to spec out and acquire the relays that I will use.

 

More to come as I build this.

 

Did I mention that this light is BRIGHT, I like it, and it is well worth any hassles along the way.

Interesting idea! All this could be located away from the headlamp, right? There's not room up there in the RSTD.

 

Dave

[Dano]

You could also install a delay timer relay in the circuit, just before the ballast (even a 2 pole for high/low), triggered from the ignition circuit, re-set upon ignition recycle, quick, easy and painless without going thru all this other stuff..........

 

 

JMHO from being a controls freak for 30 years

[Dave77459]

You could also install a delay timer relay in the circuit, just before the ballast (even a 2 pole for high/low), triggered from the ignition circuit, re-set upon ignition recycle, quick, easy and painless without going thru all this other stuff..........

 

 

JMHO from being a controls freak for 30 years

Could you do the same thing from the starter circuit? Reset from the ignition recycle?

 

After refueling, I sometimes turn on the ignition without starting the bike while I reset the trip meter.

 

 

Dave

[Dano]

You could set the timer for a longer delay, to allow for things like that, even warm up time to allow for battery recharge from starting. Initial ballast load (ie: amperage) is at initial voltage application to saturate the coil, after that it tails off. Timer will reset upon removal of trigger voltage, wherever it comes from. I think starter circuit will not allow proper operation of the timer, unless you put a latching ciruit in there. TOO much, just keep it simple (KISS).

[Flyinfool]

The best KISS would be to simply add an ON/OFF switch into the bikes existing headlight circuit.

I like the idea of it being automatic where I do not have to remember to turn off the headlight switch before turning on the ignition.

I did look at the time delay relay$$. That would be easy and would work but I don't want to spend that much if I don't have to.

 

This relay circuit is not switching the power to the light, it is all control circuits. So I do not need high amp relays. I am sure that I have adequate relays, wire, and terminals in my parts box somewhere.

That makes this a no cost option.

 

The wiring should be pretty easy since the one relay is simply across the neutral light and the headlight wire is easily accessed via the unplugged and jumpered Reserve Lighting Unit.

 

I'll try to take pics as I go.