U/CV Joint Help

[piper]

Hi every one hope you all had a GREAT Xmas and Top NEW YEARS

This post is for,

I have a clicking noise coming from the rear of my bike,

it happens only when I move my bike with the motor not running.

Has this happened to any of your bikes?

If so what was the problem and what was the way it was fixed.

Thanks PIPER

FROM ADELAIDE

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Edited January 6, 2010 by piper
Spelling

[KeithR]

Piper have a look at these pages.....may help. If they are too small PM me an E Mail address and I'll send them to you.

 

Keith

[GeorgeS]

Pull off the rear drive unit, take apart, clean everything, and " Greese It " !!

 

Also pull the drive shaft out, and Greese the forward Spline. ( very important to do this ) ( Do this every time you replace your rear tire )

[V7Goose]

That tech tip is exactly what you need - no need to disassemble anything except removing the rear wheel. The drive fingers are inserted into the wheel, and all you need to do to remove them is take off one cir-clip.

 

You may want to take out the drive shaft to grease it, but that won't have any affect on the noise you hear. Nothing wrong with doing that, but not everyone thinks it is such a requirement - I have 80,000 miles on my 05 and neither the drive unit nor the drive shaft have ever been removed. I do, however, clean and grease the drive fingers with every tire change.

Goose

 

BTW - the tech tip is available in our Technical Library here:

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705]Rear End Noise - Yamaha TSB - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

 

along with another writeup including excellent pictures here:

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263]Rear Hub Lubrication - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

Edited January 6, 2010 by V7Goose

[KiteSquid]

When you grease the drive shaft, or the surfaces of the "clutch hub" (which connects your final drive to your rear wheel) you should use Honda Moly60 paste!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Get it at a Honda or Acura car dealership for lower cost.....

[piper]

Pull off the rear drive unit, take apart, clean everything, and " Greese It " !!

 

Also pull the drive shaft out, and Greese the forward Spline. ( very important to do this ) ( Do this every time you replace your rear tire )

I have and do every about 5000 km

[piper]

When you grease the drive shaft, or the surfaces of the "clutch hub" (which connects your final drive to your rear wheel) you should use Honda Moly60 paste!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Get it at a Honda or Acura car dealership for lower cost.....

I have but I found the molly 60 dryed up after 2000 km here some piks

[piper]

I am having problem attaching the photos hop this works

 

The molly 60 dry up to a chalk after only 2000 km I am using shell Nautilus marine grease now in both dikes

 

I think the molly dry up dessert climate hear in South Australia

[dingy]

I am having problem attaching the photos hop this works

 

The molly 60 dry up to a chalk after only 2000 km I am using shell Nautilus marine grease now in both dikes

 

I think the molly dry up dessert climate hear in South Australia

 

The molybdenum disulfide is actually in its natural state in this chalk form. The oil or grease carrier that the moly is contained in will dissipate leaving behind the molybdenum disulfide. Dow Corning uses alcohol as a carrier for moly to allow it to flow into bearings in certain applications.

 

I know its hard to think of an effective lubricant in a dry state, but consider graphite, which is a more common form of a dry lubricant.

 

When used in the lubrication of the spline joints on the drive shaft, the molybdenum disulfide does not need to be in a liquid form (viscous). It is not moving through oil passages or pumps that would require a liquid form.

 

Below in red is a cut from a web page dealing with M/C drive shafts, this describes the physical properties of the molybdenum disulfide .

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Shaft.html

 

"The drive splines get surprisingly hot. Additionally, there's a lot of pressure on the splines and a lot of back and forth sliding motion. Any liquid type of grease will quickly be squeezed out of the splines, and leave you with no protection. The first time you remove your rear tire, you will likely find that the factory grease has dried out completely and solidified into something which does not even remotely resemble a lubricant. Actually, if it's a good Moly grease, it's still doing its job in this form, but it's not a pretty sight.

Honda specifies a spline grease which is 60% molybdenum disulfide ("moly"). Moly is a dry lubricant which bonds to the metal surfaces, offering lubrication properties even when the parts have squeezed everything liquid out. A lot of greases now say "Moly" on the container, but you must be careful about this. Ford and Caterpillar specify moly greases for particular applications, but the requirement is for 3% moly, not even close to the 60% requirement of Honda. It's not enough to buy a moly grease, what you really want is basically dry moly in a grease-like carrier which makes it easier to apply"

 

 

Technical write up from Engineers Edge

 

 

http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/molybdenum_disulfide_characteristics.htm

 

 

 

Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2 ). Like graphite, MoS2 has a low friction coefficient, but, unlike graphite, it does not rely on adsorbed vapors or moisture. In fact, adsorbed vapors may actually result in a slight, but insignificant, increase in friction. MoS2 also has greater load-carrying capacity and its manufacturing quality is better controlled. Thermal stability in non oxidizing environments is acceptable to 1100°C (2012°F), but in air it may be reduced to a range of 350 to 400°C (662 to 752°F).

There are currently no clear lubrication alternatives to molybdenum disulfide or the very similar tungsten disulfide that can resist temperatures higher than 350°C in oxidizing environments. Research has been conducted on compacted oxide layer glazes, which form during metallic surface sliding wear at several hundred degrees Celsius. However, because these oxide layers are physically-unstable, their use has currently not proven practical.

Applications:

It is often used in two-stroke engines; e.g., motorcycle engines. MoS2 is also used in CV and universal joints. During the Vietnam War, the molybdenum disulfide product "Dri-Slide" was used to lubricate weapons, although it was supplied from private sources, not the military. MoS2-coatings allow bullets easier passage through the rifle barrel with less deformation and better ballistic accuracy.

 

 

Gary

[V7Goose]

I have and do every about 5000 km

Taking the wheel off every 5,000 Km (3,107 miles)???? And then pulling the drive shaft too??????? Wow, I'd NEVER get any riding in! Heck, I'd have to find a garage every week when I'm on the road. I think that's just a tad obsessive.

 

As for choice of lube, I am personally not a fan of Moly 60. I don't really have anything against it, just don't think the high concentration of moly is of real value in 99.98% of applications. I tend to usually follow the type of lube recommended by the manufacturer, and moly is not called for in this particular application on this bike. My choice is a wheel bearing grease, but if I decided to use a moly grease, it would be just a normal moly grease with typically low concentration. There is a reason the vast majority of all moly greases don't have more than 10% moly.

 

But I caution any reader that I am NOT an expert on lubes, so do your own research and make up your own mind.

Goose