etohio Posted December 21, 2009 Share #1 Posted December 21, 2009 Does anyone have a old carb for a first gen. I need one to take apart to see if I can do it before I take my 88 apart. The dealer wants $500 to rebuild them:Sad_0241: and that just seems like toooooo much money for me. Thanks, Ed etohio@iwon.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted December 21, 2009 Share #2 Posted December 21, 2009 Get the service manual, screw up your courage, and dig in. Pay attention as you pull them apart, take notes, take digital photos and stop and ask questions here if you're unsure how to proceed. Do not soak them in carburetor dip or let spray cleaner sit on any rubber parts. Best to only disassemble them one at a time. That way you won't get parts mixed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted December 21, 2009 Share #3 Posted December 21, 2009 Anybody have any ides about soaking them in one of those ultrasonic cleaners? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthogcrewchief Posted December 21, 2009 Share #4 Posted December 21, 2009 I'm sure it's safe, but I won't do it as the brass and aluminum are soft metals. IF you do choose to soak them in an ultrasonic cleaner, be sure to remove ALL rubber and gasket material. Keep in mind there are rubber o-rings under adjustment screws, in between the fuel rails, and also a rubber seat on the float needle. Personally, I just used an old tooth brush, a little bit of Carb-Out, some compressed air, and a bristle from a long-bristled nylon brush (to stick into the jets and "floss" them out). IF you do clean out your jets with something, don't use anything metal near them... it will cause the orifice to be reamed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted December 21, 2009 Share #5 Posted December 21, 2009 Anybody have any ides about soaking them in one of those ultrasonic cleaners? I took a carb apart and put it in an ultrasonic cleaner just to see what it would do. Cleaned the 'H' out of it. All the pieces came out like new. I think Mike (MBrood) dipped all his in an US cleaner with great results.... The only problem I ran into was the size of the tub. I could only do one half of the body at a time. For the smaller parts it was a breeze... If I ever find a deal on a larger unit for a price I won't be passing it up... I also tried it on a couple of rusted parts and the rust just melted off. It was amazing to watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etohio Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted December 21, 2009 I did see that Harbor Freight had a ultrasonic cleaner for $80 and it is a 2.5 liter. I think I will buy one and give it a try. Any idea what kind of cleaner you use in one. How about Sea Foam? Guess you would want to do that outside just in case things go very wrong. One other question, if you let the carb soak in Sea Foam after it is compleatly striped and only soak metal parts how long can it stay in there? Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted December 21, 2009 Share #7 Posted December 21, 2009 Pictures are on the way to your email account. Progressive dis-assembly of 1983 1200 carbs. About 30 pictures. I reduced size to make them easier to email. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted December 21, 2009 Share #8 Posted December 21, 2009 I wouldn't break the rack apart. You can do everything necessary with the bodies and linkages in place. You can put the bowls and jet block in an ultrasonic cleaner if you like. Mostly you need to make sure all the passages are clear and the diaphragms are in good condition. The mixture screws need to come out. They may have little brass plugs over them. If you need to pull the plugs drill a small hole in them, thread in a self tapping screw (drywall screw works) and pull them. Drill carefully because you don't want to pop through and damage the mixture screw. Use a scribe or punch to mark the carburetor body where the slot in the mixture screw aligns. Then gently bottom the screw counting the turns. Record the turns and remove the screw. When you put the screw back in bottom it gently and back it out to where it was when you started. Under the screw are a spring, washer and o-ring. A hook made from a piece of stiff wire will assist in pulling the parts out. A muffin pan (I use disposable ones) is handy for organizing the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted December 21, 2009 Share #9 Posted December 21, 2009 I did a write up for the tech section... [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54]Carb Overhaul on 1st Gen - VentureRider.Org[/ame] On a later set, I pullled everything off the carb bodies and took the carb bodies, the jet blocks and all of the jets to a local "auto speed shop" that sent them through an ultra-sonic acid bath for about $20... he threw my parts in with another "batch"... and they came back MUCH cleaner... and the ultra-sonic works at those small inner passages of the carb body better than anything else... I DID have to call around for pricing on the ultra-sonic service... most shops wanted $80-$120... then I tried some "speed shops"... wow, what a difference in price and attitude! With the current economy, call around!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted December 21, 2009 Share #10 Posted December 21, 2009 Does the cover over the mixture screw have to be replaced? Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted December 21, 2009 Share #11 Posted December 21, 2009 I did see that Harbor Freight had a ultrasonic cleaner for $80 and it is a 2.5 liter. I think I will buy one and give it a try. Any idea what kind of cleaner you use in one. How about Sea Foam? Guess you would want to do that outside just in case things go very wrong. One other question, if you let the carb soak in Sea Foam after it is compleatly striped and only soak metal parts how long can it stay in there? Ed First off.... DON'T USE SEA FOAM!!! or any other carb cleaner for that matter. You'll end up going BOOM!!! They make specialty cleaners that are non volatile. I use Branson MC-1 Solution. Found it on the internet. Even plain water will build up heat after runing the USC for a while. Heat helps in getting the parts clean, but too much with certain cleaners will cause a lot of grief... A 2.5 liter isn't big enough to handle the larger pieces. My Elma E 30H is 2.75 liters and I wish it were twice as big to handle throttle bodies in one dip. Remember the physical inside dimentions will be cut back even more when the parts basket is used. Also I have two different baskets. One is a screened affair and works fine with larger pieces. I also have a semi-solid basket that will take the small stuff without them falling through into the bottom of the tank. You'll need both. At $80 bucks the HF bath is priced very good. It doesn't say if it has ceramic or metal transducers?? But for light cleaning jobs it should work just fine. I'd pop for the extended warantee on it from HF. Mine ran $225 with the HDs, and I stole it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted December 21, 2009 Share #12 Posted December 21, 2009 Does the cover over the mixture screw have to be replaced? Gary NO..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted December 21, 2009 Share #13 Posted December 21, 2009 My small USC is a 4 Liter. It takes two Carbs (barely) with the small Parts hamging in a Net. Works wonders fast. My big USC is a 45 Liter Bassin, would take the whole Carb Set unsplitted, but you can't get the Fuel Bowls off without splitting the Set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted December 22, 2009 Share #14 Posted December 22, 2009 My small USC is a 4 Liter. It takes two Carbs (barely) with the small Parts hamging in a Net. Works wonders fast. My big USC is a 45 Liter Bassin, would take the whole Carb Set unsplitted, but you can't get the Fuel Bowls off without splitting the Set. Think I could park "UGLY" in that 45 Liter one for a while???:rotfl: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted December 22, 2009 Share #15 Posted December 22, 2009 My big USC is a 45 Liter Bassin, would take the whole Carb Set unsplitted, but you can't get the Fuel Bowls off without splitting the Set. For some reason, my memory is telling me that on one set of carbs I did, that I did take the fuel bowls off with out splitting the set up. I remember it was a little tough getting the screws loose on the bowls, but I did get them. I wouldn't swear to this, but I do believe I did it many years ago. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted December 22, 2009 Share #16 Posted December 22, 2009 For some reason, my memory is telling me that on one set of carbs I did, that I did take the fuel bowls off with out splitting the set up. I remember it was a little tough getting the screws loose on the bowls, but I did get them. I wouldn't swear to this, but I do believe I did it many years ago. RandyA You may have had luck and got the Screws out. It's possible. I tried several Carb Sets to no avial. I did my own Carb-Sets with Allen Head Screws to make it easier next Time, but even those gave me a hard Time with ball Ended Allen Head Keys. But if you got the Bowls off, no need to Split the Set. Of Course, you need be aware of the smaller Diaphragmn from the Costing Enrichment Chambers and clean the Area thoroughly after getting the Carb Set out of the USC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted December 22, 2009 Share #17 Posted December 22, 2009 Think I could park "UGLY" in that 45 Liter one for a while???:rotfl: Of Course you can. Bring it over, there's plenty of Space left in there for Boomers Ice Cream Cone too .... :crackup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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