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Midnight Rider

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Been getting a lot of noise coming from top of engine and a vibration in the bike so I decided to call the bike shop to price a valve adjustment, I almost dropped the phone when he said $550.

Looks like I will be getting a repair book and trying it myself over the winter! Any recommendations on a repair manual? Never been into a bike that far but if i have any problems I know where to go to get the answers....:whistling:

 

Thanks,

Dale

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The service manual is here jugglers. ITs all you really need. Then look at the write up in the Tech section. Gooose went thru a lot of trouble rotating the crankshaft following the instructions. I just use the old(when the lobe is pointed up you can check the clearence).

 

 

 

Please don't do that. It's the wrong Place on the Cam to check for Clearance.

 

All you need to do while turning the Crank ist to get to TDC on the Cylinder you're checking.

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Been getting a lot of noise coming from top of engine and a vibration in the bike so I decided to call the bike shop to price a valve adjustment, I almost dropped the phone when he said $550.

Looks like I will be getting a repair book and trying it myself over the winter! Any recommendations on a repair manual? Never been into a bike that far but if i have any problems I know where to go to get the answers....:whistling:

 

Thanks,

Dale

 

Dale,

I know it would be a ways for you to go but a shop in Tipton,Mo checked mine for around 180.00. They didn't have the shims but were prepared to get them after they checked. Turned out I had one just barely out on the loose side and since they generally tighten up and on the loose side isn't hard on the bike we decided just to put it back together. It wouldn't have cost much more if they had adjusted them since most of the work is getting to where you can access them. The shop is Ghetto Cycle Sales. They specialize in hopping up Hayabusas.

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Please don't do that. It's the wrong Place on the Cam to check for Clearance.

 

All you need to do while turning the Crank ist to get to TDC on the Cylinder you're checking.

 

Over 180 degrees of any cam, opposite from the lobe, is round. Measuring clearance anywhere on the round part should give you the same reading.

 

The only reason to be a top dead center is that both cams will be somewhere on that round part for the cylinder at TDC and you can measure both intake and exhaust at the same time on that cylinder.

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Over 180 degrees of any cam, opposite from the lobe, is round. Measuring clearance anywhere on the round part should give you the same reading.

 

The only reason to be a top dead center is that both cams will be somewhere on that round part for the cylinder at TDC and you can measure both intake and exhaust at the same time on that cylinder.

 

We had too much Discussion about the Issue and i won't go into this so deep again.

 

The only Thing I'm going to say, the Clearances Yammi states are the Clearances at that specific Points of the Cam. These specific Points are NOT in the "round" Part of the Cam Profile. And Skydoc_17 added, most Cams are fabricated to a lower than the "round" Base Profile.

 

If you know it all better, go ahead and keep telling our Members here how to set the Valve Clearances too low. :fingers-crossed-emo

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We had too much Discussion about the Issue and i won't go into this so deep again.

 

The only Thing I'm going to say, the Clearances Yammi states are the Clearances at that specific Points of the Cam. These specific Points are NOT in the "round" Part of the Cam Profile. And Skydoc_17 added, most Cams are fabricated to a lower than the "round" Base Profile.

 

If you know it all better, go ahead and keep telling our Members here how to set the Valve Clearances too low. :fingers-crossed-emo

 

YOU SAID to measure at top dead center!!!!!! the ignition fires before top dead center, so the intake valve must be fully closed before top dead center and is surely on the round part by top dead center. The exhaust valve will not open until the piston has gone down is coming back up, so it has to be on the round part.

 

Here is a relatively accurate diagram of a cylinder at TDC, and the cam lobe positions.

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Dale,

I know it would be a ways for you to go but a shop in Tipton,Mo checked mine for around 180.00. They didn't have the shims but were prepared to get them after they checked. Turned out I had one just barely out on the loose side and since they generally tighten up and on the loose side isn't hard on the bike we decided just to put it back together. It wouldn't have cost much more if they had adjusted them since most of the work is getting to where you can access them. The shop is Ghetto Cycle Sales. They specialize in hopping up Hayabusas.

 

Funny Thing thats where I bought my Wing, I seen their set up. I was very pleased to see that I was dealing with someone who knew motorcycles!!!!

It may be a small shop, but baby they now their stuff and some of the toys they have there for sale are awesome indeed......

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Dale,

I know it would be a ways for you to go but a shop in Tipton,Mo checked mine for around 180.00. They didn't have the shims but were prepared to get them after they checked. Turned out I had one just barely out on the loose side and since they generally tighten up and on the loose side isn't hard on the bike we decided just to put it back together. It wouldn't have cost much more if they had adjusted them since most of the work is getting to where you can access them. The shop is Ghetto Cycle Sales. They specialize in hopping up Hayabusas.

 

 

Thanks, I will give these guys a call Tuesday. If I can get it done for a reasonable price its theirs........:happy34:

BradT...................I love you man........:innocent:

Will give me a good excuse to go see Snarley Bill!

Would like to thank everyone for their response.

 

 

Dale

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Dale,

I know it would be a ways for you to go but a shop in Tipton,Mo checked mine for around 180.00. They didn't have the shims but were prepared to get them after they checked. Turned out I had one just barely out on the loose side and since they generally tighten up and on the loose side isn't hard on the bike we decided just to put it back together. It wouldn't have cost much more if they had adjusted them since most of the work is getting to where you can access them. The shop is Ghetto Cycle Sales. They specialize in hopping up Hayabusas.

Frankly, this comment just floors me - I cannot imagine ANY shop, ANYWHERE, that would do that work for less than $200 - there are just too many hours involved in taking it all apart (and putting it together again). Checking/adjusting the valves themselves is not all that involved, but it's all the other work needed to get to them on the RSV that makes the difference. I've been thinking of offering to do this job for members (instead of just helping them for free), but I wouldn't dream of doing it myself for less than $250, and I'm not even a shop with overhead costs! If you can get them to do it for that price, and you honestly believe they really do the work, then jump at it!!!

 

As an alternative, just ride down here to North Texas and we'll get 'er done right. The job takes a full day, but you'll know it's right 'cause you will be doing most of the work yourself.

 

But "a lot of noise coming from top of engine and a vibration in the bike" is definitely not normal, so I'd suggest you do keep checking things out until you get it solved.

Goose

Edited by V7Goose
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Frankly, this comment just floors me - I cannot imagine ANY shop, ANYWHERE, that would do that work for less than $200 - there are just too many hours involved in taking it all apart (and putting it together again). Checking/adjusting the valves themselves is not all that involved, but it's all the other work needed to get to them on the RSV that makes the difference. I've been thinking of offering to do this job for members (instead of just helping them for free), but I wouldn't dream of doing it myself for less than $250, and I'm not even a shop with overhead costs! If you can get them to do it for that price, and you honestly believe they really do the work, then jump at it!!!

 

As an alternative, just ride down here to North Texas and we'll get 'er done right. The job takes a full day, but you'll know it's right 'cause you will be doing most of the work yourself.

 

But "a lot of noise coming from top of engine and a vibration in the bike" is definitely not normal, so I'd suggest you do keep checking things out until you get it solved.

Goose

 

 

It has been a while since I had it done but I definitely thought they were reasonable. I just looked for my receipt but could not find it. There is always a possibility that I am not remembering it right. Got me curious now.

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Midnightventure,

I called Ghetto Cycles and they quoted me $200 to adjust my valves. Said it was a two and a half hour job. Makes me wonder if they are doing it right. As Goose and the other shop I called have said it is an all day job. Just wanted to clear up your curiosity.

 

Dale

I think that I'd pay that much just to see someone do the job in two and a half hours! Ain't no friggin way to get that thing stripped down so that you could get the valve covers off in that time! :no-no-no: Well, maybe if you worked fast with no distractions you could actually get in there in 2.5 hours, but no way to put it back together. It's not a matter of doing it right, it's a matter of doing it at all!!!!

 

Hey, I was going to Big Bend this weekend, but just called that off today, so if you want to ride down, I'll be here.

Goose

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BTW - you'll want to think about getting new gaskets. They are made of rubber, and you can probably reuse them without leaking, especially if you use a little RTV gasket compound on them, but I wouldn't. It takes so much work to get those covers off that I'd be heartbroken to find a leak. Those gaskets are about $20 each, but that is cheap insurance, under the circumstances.

Goose

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