Eck Posted July 23, 2009 Share #26 Posted July 23, 2009 How do I save a thread. I'm going to need this one when I get to lights. Dan, You can save this "link" [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38709]Relay?? - VentureRider.Org[/ame] and it will always take you there.. or You can "bookmark" the post your on and save it as a favorite..either way will take you directly to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redneck Posted July 23, 2009 Share #27 Posted July 23, 2009 I think this is very bad advice, for several reasons. It may be safe, but it has other problems. First, if you want your new lights to go on/off automatically with your existing lights, then a relay is the only reasonable option to not add excessive load to the stock wires. Second, for any accessory that needs significant amounts of current (that's the only reason we are talking about a relay at all), you must use larger wires to provide the power. Depending on where you want to mount a switch, it often makes no sense to run the larger wire all the way to the switch, then back to the load. By using a relay, you only need very small wire, typically 18 gauge, between the switch and the relay. This can be very important if you are routing wires in tight spots or along handlebars. Third, a 30A switch is almost always MUCH larger than what you need to activate the relay (where any mini-switch will be just fine). Again, this can make a big difference in where you can mount the switch and what the finished job looks like. GooseI agree if he needs to have the lights go off with the ignition switch the relay would be the way to do it and protect the factory wiring. If he doesn't need the lights to be controlled with the ignition switch the the toggle switch will take a quarter the time and be a quarter the cost and is a very simple more reliable system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted July 23, 2009 Share #28 Posted July 23, 2009 If you hook two , NEW, lights that draw 35 Watts each, to any " existing circuit " ( Installed by the manufacture ) then you will be Overloading that existing circuit. ( Yes you will !! ) You want the New accessories to draw " Current " direct from battery, Thru a " NEW " installed , IN LINE, Fuse, going " TOO " the new Relay, and from the Relay to the two new lights. The New Switch should get current from an Existing Circuit, so that it will be " POSITIVLY TURNED OFF " when the Ignition key goes to the OFF Position. As mentioned, the control winding of the new relay draws very small current, and it is safe to add this to an existing circuit. YES, it will work, directly wired from battery thru a heavy switch ( and new fuse ) however, sooner or later sombody will walk away and leave the lights turned on !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted July 23, 2009 Share #29 Posted July 23, 2009 YES, it will work, directly wired from battery thru a heavy switch ( and new fuse ) however, sooner or later sombody will walk away and leave the lights turned on !!! One way to take care of that problem is to run the keyed hot accessory circut thru a michro switch and then to the relay. That way you have control of the lights on or off, and then there's no way you can forget.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camos Posted July 23, 2009 Share #30 Posted July 23, 2009 ... But with this type of set up you also have to add a second relay to turn the power to pin 30 off and on with the ignition switch. Otherwise without it when you switch the bike off your fog lights will stay on or if on high beam at the time it will switch to fog lights when you turn off the ignition and again the fog lights will stay on or use the alternative variation of using one relay for the fog lights with pin 85 connected to your low beam , and one relay for your road lights with pin 85 connected to your high beam and ignore pin 87a if your relays have it. Thanks for the explanation of 87a. Looks like one way or the other two relays are needed to make two sets of lights work properly with the Hi/Lo beams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave77459 Posted July 23, 2009 Share #31 Posted July 23, 2009 Thanks for the explanation of 87a. Looks like one way or the other two relays are needed to make two sets of lights work properly with the Hi/Lo beams. I haven't done this, but [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38307]this post[/ame] mentions a "smart switch" called the Custom World International Smart Switch. In short, you toggle your high beams to turn the passing lamps on and off. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2429/3749587500_6ee8a25b34_o.png Oops, I cropped the text. "If the lights are on, they go off. If they are off, they will go on." I like this solution, although it is pricey at $42. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camos Posted July 23, 2009 Share #32 Posted July 23, 2009 Boy I can just imagine the confusion that Smart Switch could cause me while driving down a dark country road. Does the switch need to be flipped 2 times or three times to get the right combo? Damn, can't remember. Seems kinda dark, must have been just one flip. Well perhaps it won't be that difficult but two $6 switches versus one $42 switch... hmmmm.... Thanks for the info, always good to know what is available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave77459 Posted July 23, 2009 Share #33 Posted July 23, 2009 Boy I can just imagine the confusion that Smart Switch could cause me while driving down a dark country road. Does the switch need to be flipped 2 times or three times to get the right combo? Damn, can't remember. Seems kinda dark, must have been just one flip. Well perhaps it won't be that difficult but two $6 switches versus one $42 switch... hmmmm.... Thanks for the info, always good to know what is available. Oh, that's right. You want the passing lamps on with the high beams, and off with the low beams. Then, you have fog lamps on with low beams, but off with high beams. It seems to me that two relays are needed, as you said. I have a question for anyone. Can I keep the relay for the driving lamps back near my fuse box, or is it best located near the lamps? It seems easy to hide it behind tin near the seat, powered (maybe) by that auxillary line. I have a RSTD and there aren't many places to hide a relay up front. I guess relays come in sizes. Is there a size I need to handle the two halogen passing lamps? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 23, 2009 Share #34 Posted July 23, 2009 I have a question for anyone. Can I keep the relay for the driving lamps back near my fuse box, or is it best located near the lamps? It seems easy to hide it behind tin near the seat, powered (maybe) by that auxillary line. I have a RSTD and there aren't many places to hide a relay up front. I guess relays come in sizes. Is there a size I need to handle the two halogen passing lamps? Dave Picture it this way: Your heavier gauge wire that powers the lamps is going to have to run from the battery post (preferably) to the lamps...anywhere along that length is gonna be ok to install the relay. In other words, put it where it will work for you. Of course, fuse it properly. The normal automotive lighting relays are 30 amp. If you use some other kind of relay, I would guess that anything in the 20 to 40 amp size would work ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest HdHtr Posted July 23, 2009 Share #35 Posted July 23, 2009 Wow ... I can't believe this thread. Dan, you created a monster!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted July 23, 2009 Share #36 Posted July 23, 2009 since a picture is worth a thousand words and here are some schematics to go along with what I was trying to explain. either variation will allow you to run both fog lights and road lights and have them switch from one to the other as you switch from high beam to low beam use's a switch to overide in case you don't want them on at all use 12 gauge wire for connections to 30, 87 and 87a use 18 gauge wire for connections to 85 and 86 this does not load up your head light cicuit as it only uses it as a signal to the relay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuddyRich Posted July 23, 2009 Share #37 Posted July 23, 2009 Here's a setup I use to run 3 headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 23, 2009 Share #38 Posted July 23, 2009 Here's a setup I use to run 3 headlights. Hmmmm... Im looking at the diagram, and trying to figure out why you need 2 relays..seems to be just turning on the aux lites when the headlight is on....maybe im missing something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuddyRich Posted July 23, 2009 Share #39 Posted July 23, 2009 The first relay (4-pin) is just to shut down the 2 4.5 inch headlights anytime I want. Like low battery or just wanting to run with the main headlight only Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 23, 2009 Share #40 Posted July 23, 2009 The first relay (4-pin) is just to shut down the 2 4.5 inch headlights anytime I want. Like low battery or just wanting to run with the main headlight only But all you need for doing that is a switch in the trigger line from the main headlight to do the same thing. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuddyRich Posted July 23, 2009 Share #41 Posted July 23, 2009 No, Because then the low beams would stay on all the time. This for adding 2 4.5 inch HEADLIGHTS. Which have a hi an lo beam. That way when I go to hi beam I have 3 of them not just 1. With the 5 pin relay 87 or 87a will be hot so I have to kill the supply line.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 23, 2009 Share #42 Posted July 23, 2009 (edited) Ok, I WAS missing something...those are dual filiament headlights...OK...got it now...I was thinking you had wired up a couple of single filament aux lamps.. In most states including Texas ( I believe ) its illegal to have 3 HEADLIGHTS on a motorcycle...so that never occured to me that you have done that. Ok.. Back to the topic.... Edited July 23, 2009 by tx2sturgis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted July 24, 2009 Share #43 Posted July 24, 2009 Here's a setup I use to run 3 headlights. Using the tailight instead of another ignition source to shut down the main power relay is an interesting concept ( i like it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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