helomech Posted September 12, 2007 Share #1 Posted September 12, 2007 The Bike is running horribly again. I can't seem to keep it consistant. The Idle wanders, ocasionaly I lose power during roll-ons and it is using waaayyy more gas than it should. I think its time to do the carbs. The instructions in Tech are great so I don't think I need help there. My problem is I can't find a kit on-line. I don't want to go to my local dealer because they are SSSLLLOOOOWWWW with regard to ordering parts. I've been to both DGY and Flatout, they don't appear to sell a kit, just individual parts. Having never done this before, I have no idea what parts are needed, nice to have, or a complete waste of money. If no kits are available, how about a list of parts? Might be a nice addition to the tech article. DGY and Flatout appear to use the same indexing system and numbers. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted September 12, 2007 Share #2 Posted September 12, 2007 I think I'm about to do this too. "Black Beauty" dumping gas on ground and can't get it to stop. Fire Ext. was nice no damage to bike. Getting it all ready to put back togather. Like to have Denden here on those carbs for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyHorse Posted September 12, 2007 Share #3 Posted September 12, 2007 No kit available. I would do big 4 diaphrams and the 4 small diaphrams at a minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted September 12, 2007 Share #4 Posted September 12, 2007 No kit available. I would do big 4 diaphrams and the 4 small diaphrams at a minimum. - add four Floater-Sets, which come with new Valve Seats, their O-Rings and the Valves themself - add the Seals in the Carb Bowls - add the Rubbers in the Carb Bowls - at least the tiny O-Rings on the Idle Mixture Screws - eventually the Springs the Idle Mixture Screws - eventually the Idle Mixture Screws also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradT Posted September 13, 2007 Share #5 Posted September 13, 2007 Could the problem be a plugged fuel filter, or one that is getting close to being plugged. ? Just another idea. Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyHorse Posted September 13, 2007 Share #6 Posted September 13, 2007 - add four Floater-Sets, which come with new Valve Seats, their O-Rings and the Valves themself - add the Seals in the Carb Bowls - add the Rubbers in the Carb Bowls - at least the tiny O-Rings on the Idle Mixture Screws - eventually the Springs the Idle Mixture Screws - eventually the Idle Mixture Screws also And what he said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted September 13, 2007 Share #7 Posted September 13, 2007 And what he said. sorry, am i wrong in some Part of the List ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyHorse Posted September 14, 2007 Share #8 Posted September 14, 2007 sorry, am i wrong in some Part of the List ? No not at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helomech Posted September 19, 2007 Author Share #9 Posted September 19, 2007 I did the carb cleaning this weekend. On Monday, I took it out for about a 50 mile test drive. I feel like I have a new bike! It was strong before, but now it is silky smooth as well. I had absolutely no backfiring at all for the first time since I bought the bike. Anyway, that carb cleaning was long overdue, why did I suffer so long? When I opened the float bowls up, I found significant quantities of fine rust colored powder in all four bowls. I'm sure that rust was the main reson behind the inconstant performance. All of the diaphrams, o-rings, and valves were in good shape. When I got them back together, I did the float check and found the float settings were all over the place too. One was barely letting any fuel in at all, and another was pouring all over the place. the remaining two were a full inch below spec. The list of parts you guys gave was pretty good, and thanks, but some of those items are big ticket items for my tiny bike budget. I figured I'd just hold off and take a look first to see how everything looked before I dropped several hundred dollars for all those parts listed. The only problem now is that when the bike is hot, the idle speed drops to about 500 rpm. Yes, that's what I said, it idles as 500 rpm! Yes I know thats too low, but it did it without dying! I think that means I still have a little work to do as far as getting the right Idle mixture settings. When I took them out for cleaning they were only one full turn out from bottomed on all four. I've turned the mixture screws out a quarter turn to see if it helps. It seems to for now, after the adjustment, I was able to adjust the thumbscrew back towards the cold setting a bit. Now I'll have to let her get cold and see how she does then. I'm pretty sure the mixture is the key to the dropping idle, but I want to creep up on that setting slowly because I don't want to dump any more fuel in there than I need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipstreamer Posted September 22, 2007 Share #10 Posted September 22, 2007 "The instructions in Tech are great so I don't think I need help there" I have to do this too, where do we find these instructions? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted September 22, 2007 Share #11 Posted September 22, 2007 Set them all to 2 1/4 turns CCW from fully closed position. Then do the Carb linkage Sync proceedure, Then do a fine tune on the idle mix screws. As you do all this, you will most likley have to make Several readjustments of the Main Idle Speed knob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutty Posted September 23, 2007 Share #12 Posted September 23, 2007 All carb adj should be made after warm up and fan comes on. Cold idle speed no concern because of choke useage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helomech Posted September 23, 2007 Author Share #13 Posted September 23, 2007 Set them all to 2 1/4 turns CCW from fully closed position. Then do a fine tune on the idle mix screws. How do you do this part George? Shop manual is useless, says "factory set, don't adjust." Nothing in tech that I can find. I have found a few internet articles about Idle richness for other bikes, but the gist of what I came up with is, if it backfires a lot, richen the mixture, and if it smells bad, lean it out. Is there a precise way to adjust the carbs either together or indvidually without expensive smog sniffing equipment? I suppose you could use one of those point and shoot infrared thermometers to compare cylinder temps, but I'm clueless as to what the procedure or result of "fine tuning" should be. For now, I've settled on each of the mixture screws at about 1 1/4 turns out from bottom. no backfiring, no smell, clean exhaust, idles at 1000 rpm. The bike seems to be running great, except the mileage is lousy. Thanks for the help. As to your suggestion, I will do another sync ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helomech Posted September 23, 2007 Author Share #14 Posted September 23, 2007 "The instructions in Tech are great so I don't think I need help there" I have to do this too, where do we find these instructions? Thanks Carb Overhaul on 1st Gen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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