Repairing ignition switch

[Ozmonster]

Nothing bums you out more than purchasing a used vehicle and having it break down a week later, well 9 days. Was out for a blast down the highway last Friday, rolling down the off ramp, hit a pot hole and the bike dies, nothing working but the radio. Called a friend who showed up with some tooling. Check of the fuses showed that they were all good, and power right up to the switch, but nothing out. Trailered the bike to our shop, 3 hours later, got it going again. No problems for the next couple days, and unfortunately my computer was in for service, so no way to read up on the site about the problem. Then on Tuesday, about 15 kms from home, bike just dies, except for the radio. Check of the switch this time did not solve problem, so, trailered her home.

 

Contacted the dealer for a price check on a switch, $288.00, YOU GOT TO BE FRIGGIN KIDDING ME!!!!

 

Got our computer back the next day, straight to Venturerider, and find out that there are a few good posts on the issue. All of them explain how to prevent it, or the emergency repair proceedure to at least drive the bike home. One member even mentioned repairing his switch, but no details. So I thought I'd tackle it myself, and post the repair of the switch for anyone like me, to damn cheap to pay outragious dealer mark-up prices.

 

Started by removing the seat, tank and front frame panels to gain good access to the switch. Had previously noted the rounded off bolt heads, obviously done after assembly, as a anti-theft measure, as the steering lock is part of the switch assembly. Had puzzled over how to remove the bolts, and had read of others using dremels to cut out the weld nuts, or cut slots into the heads. I decided to take a different route, and treated them and broken bolts, and used an extractor set.

 

First - center punch and pilot drill the bolts, then drill them out to the size required for the extractor, I used a 1/4" Snap-on extractor tool. Install tool and remove bolts, I had purchased new bolts to replace the old ones, as they were obviously destroyed when removed.

 

Second - with the switch now out, I cleaned it with electrical component cleaner. I then removed the 2 philips head screws from the bottom of the assembly. Carefully separate the switch assembly, and make note of the position of the contactor before removing it. With the switch now opened up, the problem was very obvious, the red lead solder joint had failed. I also noted that the lead was dis-coloured and the plate had small cracks around the solder points.

 

Third - Cleaned solder point with abrasive pad, and applied flux, then re-soldered joint. After cooling, the plate was flipped over and the contacts dressed, prior to re-assembly.

 

Fourth - Switch assembly was then re-assembled, and before final tightening, an ohm reading was taken in the "ON" position, all leads that were to have continuity did. Philips screws had lock tight applied and were tightened in.

 

Fifth - Re-installed switch onto frame, and terminated all wiring. At this time I installed the "Relay Modification" to prevent any further issues from occurring in the future. However, I did make up a "Emergency By-pass" kit, 2 leads, toggle switch, and cable splice crimps. Placed it in a zip-loc baggie and put it in the right saddle bag, tool kit area, better to have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.

 

With all the repairs done, the tank, covers and seat were placed back on the bike, which fired up and ran great, and took off for a 3 hour test ride. All worked out great. Hopefully this will help others tackle the switch issue, providing the plate isn't damaged beyond use, you should be able to salvage the switch.

[BradT]

Nice job. I bought the switch got for a bit less though.

 

Brad

[Freebird]

Great write up. I also copied it to the tech library.

[Monsta]

Very good post! And timely, too! I need to go do that to mine right now!!

[ibents]

Great post, I've had trouble with mine and like you, have made up a set of wires and toggle switch and stashed them in the side bag as a "just in case" measure.

 

Ian

[OutlawRider]

Not to sound stupid but where do you wire the emergency toggle if needed. Real good post. I have a second generation. Just do not want to be stuck on the hyway. Thanks

[Monty]

Is this a 2nd Gen. problem?

[Rick Butler]

Yeah Monty,

 

I've never heard about this issue on a 1st gen but I've seen it on several RSVs and mine needs it also. But our ignitions have 4 wires coming out where yours only has 2 for the main starter circuit. In fact Yamaha has just issued a recall for the 06 and 07 FJRs where theirs are cutting off while moving, which wouldn't be a good feeling.

 

Rick

[ibents]

Not to sound stupid but where do you wire the emergency toggle if needed. Real good post. I have a second generation. Just do not want to be stuck on the hyway. Thanks

 

Check this thread Richard

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=512

 

Ian

[Midnight V-4]

Thanks to all the information about the possibility of the ignition switch failure I took a pre-emptive strike. I followed Freebird's write up and installed a relay to bypass the main switch. I also added a hidden toggle switch just in case the switch does fail. I connected the toggle switch to one end of a quick disconnect and the other end of the disconnect I wired to the red lead going to the relay and main switch. The Brown/Blue wire from the two wire connector goes to the line side of the relay coil so it is energized by the main switch. The load side of the toggle switch goes through the quick disconnect to the relay coil.

 

If the main switch ever fails all I have to do is put the two halves of the quick disconnect together, flip the toggle switch, and I can start the bike and make it home for repairs. This way I don't have to keep track of where my bypass switch is......it's always there.

 

Thanks to Freebird and Vgoose for all the great information on this and other subjects (gauges). This sight is the best thing I have found on the internet.