Fannydunk Posted March 31, 2009 Share #1 Posted March 31, 2009 (edited) Hi all. I read the threads about bottoming forks. My question is, this did not happen until I had the shop put new seals in. A local person tells me there is a part inside the fork, that if it is upside down, it will limit the shock travel. Anyone know if there is any truth to this. Thanks. Another question? Do the forks need to be bled? I put the oil in after the forks were on the bike. Edited March 31, 2009 by Fannydunk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozlander Posted March 31, 2009 Share #2 Posted March 31, 2009 Probably so, I've had the same problem since I changed seals on mine last year. I need to redo it. Some place I read that the manual shows the part downside down. Ozlander Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted March 31, 2009 Share #3 Posted March 31, 2009 See page 6-37 of Service Manual. Lower left side of page, See: Item #2 and #3 " Special Washers " I think he Installed them wrong, or left them out. Item 2 is NOT the Same as Item 3. They are Stainless Steel, and they ARE SPECIAL!! I'm not sure, but I think that act as an Oil Flow Valve. They ARE NOT Just Washers !! Talk to Rick Butler, and Squeez, they might have more details. He did somthing wrong, take it back!! Even if your old springs were worn out, It should NOT BOTTOM OUT !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRocket Posted April 1, 2009 Share #4 Posted April 1, 2009 My front end has a crashy klunk in it too. The PO had the seals changed not that long ago too. I was thinking it was more likely in the steering head, but ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Butler Posted April 1, 2009 Share #5 Posted April 1, 2009 Guys, Just about any time that you feel a klunk when your forks react from a bump, etc, the springs have lost most of their sag. I just replaced a set from an 83 that when measured with the rider on the bike, there was 70 mm of sag. This means that of the 5.5" of travel, 2.7" was taken up by the weight of the bike and rider, leaving 2.8" to soak up bumps (not much). The experts say that you should only have 25-30mm of sag fully laden. New springs are the best thing you can do for the handling of a set of forks. In fact most touring bikes today come new from the factory with too light of springs. Now what you are refering to with the washers and cup at the bottom of the dampening rod on 1st gen Ventures is there to deal with the anti-dive mechanism. It's my opinion that with the correct spring rate, there is no reason for an antidive mechanism on a bike. You surely don't see antidive units on any of the super sport bikes. Hope this helps, Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappa Bear Posted April 1, 2009 Share #6 Posted April 1, 2009 Hey Rick, when I change my springs to progressives will I need to disable or take off the anti dive stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted April 2, 2009 Share #7 Posted April 2, 2009 To just change springs, just take caps off top, pull old ones out, put new ones in. Replace the Oil. Follow instructions with new progressives, as to spacer, and amount of oil. Less oil with progressives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fannydunk Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted April 8, 2009 Thanks all. I took the shocks off AGAIN. I was able to compress the right one with just my weight. It would bottom out. I was not able to bottom out the left. I think my man got the washers wrong. Is it true the manual is wrong on how the oil lock piece gos in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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