Ivan Posted January 30, 2009 Share #1 Posted January 30, 2009 Well, thanks to MiCarl, I have a working set of gauges. I just need a bezel with lenzes I can see through. It starts and runs well now, and shifts through all the gears (on the center stand). The Computer display is indicating a battery problem and a oil problem. I am guessing the battery light is from the electrolyte sensor not being installed, since I have an AGM battery on this one. The oil light, though, is befuddling me, as I cant seem to find the oil pressure switch. A heads up on the location of that would be helpful. Once again, the people of this site are astounding in their helpfulness, and I think I may not ever be able to say thank you enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted January 30, 2009 Share #2 Posted January 30, 2009 We don't have oil pressure sensors on these bikes (don't know why), but oil level sensors. If you look under the front left of your oil pan, you'll see a wire coming off a sensor in the oil pan. Follow this and make sure it's connected. Otherwise, I believe you can use an ohm meter to see if it's working. Make sure your oil level is half way between the marks in the sight glass. If you don't hear valves rattling and rods seizing up, you're probably OK. I know these sensors drive me crazy if I'm on a high-speed take-off up thru third, because the oil will flow to the back of the pan (where the pick-up is, thank goodness) and the sensor will start flashing. It's probably just a loose connection somewhere. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted January 30, 2009 Share #3 Posted January 30, 2009 You are right about the battery indicator. You can eliminate the problem by hooking up a 5 - 15K resistor (I think that's the value that works) from the sense line to +12v, perferably switched 12 volts. There is a thread somewhere on this site about it. It's what all of us Odessy battery users have to do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted January 30, 2009 Share #4 Posted January 30, 2009 install a 2200 ohm resistor in place of the sensor, and run to Switched 12V. Do not hook the sensor wire direct to 12V. Will burn out the monitor unit. ( don't ask how I know that ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barend Posted January 30, 2009 Share #5 Posted January 30, 2009 I've got a similar problem with oil, brake fluid, fuel and now apparently also kickstand. Except mine come on and go off at times. I know everything is serviced and levels are OK, so as long as they go off I'm good! Somewhere along the line the CMU started to do a self test while driving. Guess I'll find out if that's still going on now that the CMU is fixed/checked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted January 30, 2009 I am guessing here, but since the battery sensor goes in one of the center cells of the battery, it should pick up either a 6 or 8 volt signal correct? So wouldn't a 6V regulator be safer than guessing at the right resistance, since the current will change based on system voltage? Maybe I am just being too picky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 30, 2009 Share #7 Posted January 30, 2009 Maybe I am just being too picky. Yeah, try reading http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted January 31, 2009 Share #8 Posted January 31, 2009 the resistor used by people in this situation does not change the voltage. In this case it limits the current to protect the sensor display. You can use a Zener diode. Say rated for 6 or so volts. WHat this will do is any voltage greater than 6 will go to the sensor wire. So if you have 14 volts while running. The sensor gets a signal of 8 volts. I have been an elec.tech for 30yrs. So I know what I am saying here. One warning with a Zener. Don't connect it backwards and they are often glass. Making them more fragile that a resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share #9 Posted January 31, 2009 Sometimes I get too caught up in things, and need to just go with the flow, so to say. I am sure a resistor will work well. I will get it figured out. It is to the point that I could drive it today, naked, since the body panels are all over the place, and I would like to get them repaired or replaced as necessary and get some paint on them, so it looks decent. I should have taken a few pics to document the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted February 1, 2009 Well, I had my first ride on it today. Totally stripped down, nothing on it except the seat and enough lighting to get passed the LEOs. Took it in and filled the tank, ran it out a bit to see if anything major was wrong. The forks need air. It kept bottoming out over the bumps. Wife was following me and said it puffs lots of black smoke when I gun it, and smells bad. I pulled up to the pump and some guy on a Harley looks me and the bike over and just doesn't know what to think. Finally he says "Blowing the dirt off it?" I said its my project. He laughed at me then. I guess he has never fixed up an old bike. Oh well, I was happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted February 1, 2009 Share #11 Posted February 1, 2009 How many bugs did you clean out of your teeth?! I did the same with mine last year, it was a blast!! Almost didn't want to put the plastic back on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted February 1, 2009 No bugs on the first 70º day of the year. The dust and leaves coming off the thing left a cloud like the 1930 cropdusters though. http://farm1.static.flickr.com/163/329734415_52a54d904a.jpg?v=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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