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Hey Guys, 

I'm wanting to remove my carbs this weekend.  Does anyone have any videos or tips that I should know? 

I have the air box off already and can see the carbs

Questions I have

1. Do they come our the top, left side, or right side? 

2. Does the from faring need to come off? 

Thanks in advance! 

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  • Drain the carbs. There are drain screws near the base of each carb and they will drain via the hoses sticking out the sides. It's messy, and because of that, I might not even drain them, but keep aware they're full of gas still if you don't.

  • Remove the fuel-feed hose (from the fuel pump) in the top-center of the carb bank. It is the only hose with a clamp. Use a radiator pick to free it up (carefully) if it is stuck. Pay attention to how the hose is routed. Gas will spill.

  • Remove the four vent hoses. Notice the path they follow so you can put it back together right.

  • Remove the vacuum advance hose from the left front carb holder and bracket.

  • Unscrew the choke cable retaining screw enough to free the cable. Slide the cable housing out of the retainer. Unwind the cable and slide the cable-end out with the cable aligned with the slot in the lever. Do not use pliers (you'll fray the wire.)

  • Remove the pull side throttle cable. It is the outboard most cable. There's a clip that supports the two cables under the left fairing, just ahead of the adjuster. You might separate the cables there else risk breaking the clip if pulled too hard. Optionally, loosen (screw all the way on) the lock nut and then adjuster for the pull cable while carefully counting the turns so that accurate adjustment can be returned. This gives you a fraction of an inch extra play that I always seem to need. Pull the cable up and slide the cable through the slot in the inboard side of the cable retainer housing. Spinning the throttle wide open will help. You can now reach the cable-end and slide the free cable through the throttle-lever slot. This can be a bit frustrating. Maybe someone can help hold the throttle, etc. I also gently use the radiator hose pick to navigate the cable around. Again, do not do anything that would fray these cables else you will need to replace it immediately.

  • Loosen the four hose clamps on the carb holders. Free each carb from its holder rubber carefully and individually. The application of penetrating oil may help. This is not a good place to have a vacuum leak by cracking, tearing, or puncturing a carb holder. Eventually the entire carb bank should begin to rock in the holders without a lot of restriction.

  • Lift the carbs free from the holders and intake. Use a rocking motion and do not force. You may need to pry - gently - with a flat blade screw driver between the top of the carb holder and body of each carb to fully separate. Be careful not to damage the carb holders. Watch that cables and hoses on the right side of the bike are not interfering. Slide halfway out the left side of the frame while watching that you are not crimping throttle or choke cables. The engine intakes are partially exposed, be careful nothing foreign can drop in there at this point.

  • Remove the push side throttle cable as it is now more accessible.

  • Remove the carbs and set them aside.

  • Pack a clean rag or paper towels in each carb holder to plug the intake, the crankcase breather pipe, and/or cover everything to keep it clean! Allow nothing down the engine intakes. You can have a quick peek inside at the valves though.

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11 minutes ago, Prairiehammer said:
  • Drain the carbs. There are drain screws near the base of each carb and they will drain via the hoses sticking out the sides. It's messy, and because of that, I might not even drain them, but keep aware they're full of gas still if you don't.

     

  • Remove the fuel-feed hose (from the fuel pump) in the top-center of the carb bank. It is the only hose with a clamp. Use a radiator pick to free it up (carefully) if it is stuck. Pay attention to how the hose is routed. Gas will spill.

     

  • Remove the four vent hoses. Notice the path they follow so you can put it back together right.

     

  • Remove the vacuum advance hose from the left front carb holder and bracket.

     

  • Unscrew the choke cable retaining screw enough to free the cable. Slide the cable housing out of the retainer. Unwind the cable and slide the cable-end out with the cable aligned with the slot in the lever. Do not use pliers (you'll fray the wire.)

     

  • Remove the pull side throttle cable. It is the outboard most cable. There's a clip that supports the two cables under the left fairing, just ahead of the adjuster. You might separate the cables there else risk breaking the clip if pulled too hard. Optionally, loosen (screw all the way on) the lock nut and then adjuster for the pull cable while carefully counting the turns so that accurate adjustment can be returned. This gives you a fraction of an inch extra play that I always seem to need. Pull the cable up and slide the cable through the slot in the inboard side of the cable retainer housing. Spinning the throttle wide open will help. You can now reach the cable-end and slide the free cable through the throttle-lever slot. This can be a bit frustrating. Maybe someone can help hold the throttle, etc. I also gently use the radiator hose pick to navigate the cable around. Again, do not do anything that would fray these cables else you will need to replace it immediately.

     

  • Loosen the four hose clamps on the carb holders. Free each carb from its holder rubber carefully and individually. The application of penetrating oil may help. This is not a good place to have a vacuum leak by cracking, tearing, or puncturing a carb holder. Eventually the entire carb bank should begin to rock in the holders without a lot of restriction.

     

  • Lift the carbs free from the holders and intake. Use a rocking motion and do not force. You may need to pry - gently - with a flat blade screw driver between the top of the carb holder and body of each carb to fully separate. Be careful not to damage the carb holders. Watch that cables and hoses on the right side of the bike are not interfering. Slide halfway out the left side of the frame while watching that you are not crimping throttle or choke cables. The engine intakes are partially exposed, be careful nothing foreign can drop in there at this point.

     

  • Remove the push side throttle cable as it is now more accessible.

     

  • Remove the carbs and set them aside.

     

  • Pack a clean rag or paper towels in each carb holder to plug the intake, the crankcase breather pipe, and/or cover everything to keep it clean! Allow nothing down the engine intakes. You can have a quick peek inside at the valves though.

Thanks so much for this info! That's super helpful for sure!  I'm sure once I dive in I'll have more questions.  

11 minutes ago, Prairiehammer said:
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I have found a slim wooden rod, like a small hammer handle to be invaluable as a pry bar in removing my '83s carbs. Just be careful not to apply pressure to any linkage.

Edited by luvmy40
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Regardless of bike my practice is to spray a bit of lube around the intakes at the base of the carbs, then a touch of up and down pressure on the carb body before the final pull up.. Can save the sealing boss of the intakes.

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Tie wraps around the bases and then others thru the base loops and over a 2x4  so you have something to pull on or pry on (2x4 is a lot more forgiving than carb bodies/linkages) works great too but you still gotta be careful of those linkages.  Cover the carb throats with a rag so your sweat dont drip into the carbs lol..  Cut a 2x to sit over the throats, put a rag over that and then a 2x with tie wraps again to push the carb bank back in too. That really helps to make sure the carb spigots snap all the way into the intakes.  Pushin em 4 at a time like that can be fun. 

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