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Teardown and rebuild into something a little more... Me


Loy
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Hey Everybody! I know I may get eaten alive for this, But I picked up a Venture here recently, and am working it as a restoration/bobber build to make it fit me a little better (I'm 5'5" on a good day, and about 190 lbs). The '83 XVZ1200 sat around for about ten years, and needs some love to get running. Luckily, the PO is here on the site, and did a wonderful job of maintaining her for her long stint in a covered Workshop, So the mechanicals should mostly be in order. If you are interested in giving me pointers, or just wanna watch me bumble through this thing, enjoy! This is first of a series, and I have a specific plan to keep the luggage and tour capability for when I want it :)

 

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Hey Everybody! I know I may get eaten alive for this, But I picked up a Venture here recently, and am working it as a restoration/bobber build to make it fit me a little better (I'm 5'5" on a good day, and about 190 lbs). The '83 XVZ1200 sat around for about ten years, and needs some love to get running. Luckily, the PO is here on the site, and did a wonderful job of maintaining her for her long stint in a covered Workshop, So the mechanicals should mostly be in order. If you are interested in giving me pointers, or just wanna watch me bumble through this thing, enjoy! This is first of a series, and I have a specific plan to keep the luggage and tour capability for when I want it :)

 

Video was boring af. Suggest get the go running and the stop and rude it without a seat to see if it could be comfortable with a custom seat. After that if you want to get crazy, take off the tail section. (& fuel tank?)and it will look like a drag bike. Idk how it would be riding lime that but you could fab a seat and rear fender on that. Then maybe stacks on the carbs (yes everyone will say it won't run but I bet it could with jetting and change the muffs. Yep, then the handlebars and that mess up front with the fairing goes.

 

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Video was boring af. Suggest get the go running and the stop and rude it without a seat to see if it could be comfortable with a custom seat. After that if you want to get crazy, take off the tail section. (& fuel tank?)and it will look like a drag bike. Idk how it would be riding lime that but you could fab a seat and rear fender on that. Then maybe stacks on the carbs (yes everyone will say it won't run but I bet it could with jetting and change the muffs. Yep, then the handlebars and that mess up front with the fairing goes. Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Stacks and open pods in lieu of the factory air box can work just fine but you must compensate for the lack of intake restriction. The easiest way to achieve that is to get a set of restrictors from Morley's Muscle. Cheap and fast. It's what I had to do when I installed a free flowing custom air box on my Vmax (same-ish engine/carbs). One way to illustrate the importance of the air box is to try and run without it and see how bad it is. CV carbs are sensitive to flow/restriction changes. Good luck on the project! I love to see unique and custom things unfold!
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Video was boring af.

 

Lol Of course part one, a tear-down, Is boring for yous guys who have had this particular bike for 20 years. :smilies6: But for the people who watch my channel that have never seen a motorcycle come apart, or may have never even held a wrench, It's AMAZING that a bike can be taken to pieces with a couple hand tools. It's a series, so not every episode is going to be on par with an LSD trip on a 20 million dollar plane ride through the UAE. :-P Don't worry, The Interesting Stuff is coming. Still working on how to make the Frame fully convertible with minimal to zero tools, but that's all I'm gonna say about that for now....

 

This is my old '83. As he delves into it, he will most likely be ragging on ME about something about this Venture. :080402gudl_prv:

 

Hey Kevin! Don't worry, It may get a little crazy, but I'm planning on keeping most of the heritage of the bike. :)

 

As for the airbox vs Stacks w/ restriction thing, I've actually found a weird and interesting solution online for that. But we will get there eventually...

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Stacks and open pods in lieu of the factory air box can work just fine but you must compensate for the lack of intake restriction. The easiest way to achieve that is to get a set of restrictors from Morley's Muscle. Cheap and fast. It's what I had to do when I installed a free flowing custom air box on my Vmax (same-ish engine/carbs). One way to illustrate the importance of the air box is to try and run without it and see how bad it is. CV carbs are sensitive to flow/restriction changes. Good luck on the project! I love to see unique and custom things unfold!
Are c.v. carbs more sensitive then old slide carbs like a mikuni vm26

 

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Are c.v. carbs more sensitive then old slide carbs like a mikuni vm26

 

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I don't think air boxes are designed to create a restriction so much as to create dead air (a constant pressure) around a velocity stack which gets the proper air velocity past the jets. I put pic tubes inside my local pods on an old suzi with vm26 carbs and it helped immensely. I also partially shielded each pod with foil tape.

 

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I don't think air boxes are designed to create a restriction so much as to create dead air (a constant pressure) around a velocity stack which gets the proper air velocity past the jets. I put pic tubes inside my local pods on an old suzi with vm26 carbs and it helped immensely. I also partially shielded each pod with foil tape.

 

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Pvc pipe inside the pods8c26458c348dc04172b996d25faaa154.jpg9c48a4e4eb2c7dfff71bd81b53cb475f.jpg

 

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Are c.v. carbs more sensitive then old slide carbs like a mikuni vm26 Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
It is my experience that they are notably more sensitive to restriction changes than flatsides. Upside is they seem better in adapting to altitude changes. The restrictors I'm referring to come as a set of four little brass cogs, smaller than a pencil eraser and with a specific sized orifice in each one. They slide into the second little port atop the carb adjacent to the barrel. They press right in by hand. I did it on my Vmax because I wanted to take advantage of the increased flow of a full Kerker 4-2-1 and a custom airbox with a big fat filter grafted to the top of it replacing the more restrictive inner filter. Other folks do it because a custom job requires removal of the factory airbox, for whatever reason the little brass restrictors are a neat clean cheap way to do it that does not require mods that would impede or hinder the flow of air into the carbs. http://www.morleysmuscle.com/ Sean is the guy to talk to if you need other options or more info on this one. He not only does Vmax but also has a couple very sweet Venture projects under his belt.
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I'm not surprised that the fuel in that tank smelled, it has been in there since 2002!

The frozen (inoperable) petcock is a common 1983 malady. Yamaha changed the petcock the next year to one that could be operated with the hand and also provided a reserve position. The 1983 had no reserve and a tool was required to operate it, thus it remained in one position (ON/open) for its entire life.

As for the carbs LOOKING clean, don't be fooled, they are most likely gummed up inside. Again, 16 year old fuel!

Good luck.

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I apologize for how long it took me to get this together as promised, its been an insane week, but here is a pic of my vmax carb with a restrictor installed, which allows proper operation with a free flowing filter system other than the OEM box.

 

A pic of the custom high flow airbox lid that made the restrictors necessary, and a pic of the top of the carb. The brass jet can be seen, and the smaller brass dealio next to it is the restrictor.. Buy em, press em in and run any sort of airbox or pods you want. I hope this helps. Ill repost these pics and info in 1st gen tech so its searchable for others.

 

The airbox lid is part of a jetting system created by someone that knows a bit more than I to take full advantage of the free flowing Kerker exhaust on the Vmax. Once I got her put together and the right jets instslled it was wild. Now it revs so easily and violently past redline that I will need to install a shift light/rev limiter. Im sure there is no performance gain for a Venture ( restrictive heads and exhaust) beyond being able to ditch the OEM airbox.

IMG_20180726_074221.jpg

IMG_20180724_114233.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
Oh my Gosh, that was a Lot of work (To edit; the Work on the bike isn't really that bad at all). But hey, Now it stops when you ask it to! :)

 

 

THANKS LOY!! Very well done!!!

I took liberty to find you on youtube and it appears your channel/screen name there is Voyventures (in case anyone else goes looking for you so they can subscribe too).. Subscribed and gave you a good ol :thumbsup: there to match the one :thumbsup: I give you here!!!!

All the VERY best in your project Loy!!! Sooooooooo much fun and wayyyy good info!!

Puc

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THANKS LOY!! Very well done!!!

I took liberty to find you on youtube and it appears your channel/screen name there is Voyventures (in case anyone else goes looking for you so they can subscribe too).. Subscribed and gave you a good ol :thumbsup: there to match the one :thumbsup: I give you here!!!!

All the VERY best in your project Loy!!! Sooooooooo much fun and wayyyy good info!!

Puc

 

 

Thanks man! I figure as I get into the actual build, I'm kinda finding my stride with recording and editing this type of project. Very different from FPV Quadcopters. They are getting less "Boring AF", as Gary put it. :rotf:

 

Lol and its Loyventures, with an L :-p

Edited by Loy
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O.M.G. :yikes:

What are you doing to my bike?

 

BTW, the banjo bolt in the rear brake reservoir was just a "plug" that I had on hand. It fit. It kept stuff out of the reservoir. Find an appropriate bolt/plug to replace it. Don't put too long of a bolt in there as a plug. And make sure to use a crush washer as a sealing "gasket".

90153-10015 rear master reservoir plug.jpg

 

You may find that the stock front master cylinder is inadequate for use with two calipers. You will probably want to get a 1986-1993 (MKII) front master cylinder assembly to use instead of the 1983-1985 (MKI) front master cylinder. The MKI master cylinder has a ½" bore. The MKII master cylinder has a 14mm bore. Most find the ½" bore acting on the now four pistons does not deliver enough force nor does it give a good progressive brake "feel".

Did you use a double banjo bolt (two orifices) at the front master cylinder?

banjo bolt double .jpg

Also, you should have removed the proportioning valve from the rear master cylinder and attached the rear brake line directly to the rear master cylinder. Or at least gutted the proportioning valve, removing the inner workings.

prop IMG_0457.jpg

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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